Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello together I hope the topic is right here. short: After a repair: control chain, clutch, injection nozzles, balancing shaft. (on holiday in Austria ) car picked up, after 300 km, engine didn’t really gas anymore, we stayed out of the exhaust with white smoke (a lot of white smoke) and yellow dust. The yellow dust was distributed after the remaining 3m behind the car and the trunk cover was full of splashes. (yellow/brown light) cooling hose nozzle on the cooler lid drained broken (gluing point ?) Cooling water sprayed everywhere in the engine compartment (brownish with a stitch yellow, muddy) Oil was a bit bright for a diesel (after 200km (workshop drove towards us) a bit strange, after another 3ookm it was dark but a little thin liquid) see photos

Moin, there is always talk of diesel conversions. What does it look like with the petrol engine? A conversion from Euro4 or Euro5 to Euro6 would have to be far less complex than with the diesel engine. Are there technical possibilities or specialized companies that offer something like this? Because of me also by individual acceptance. Who has any idea? I consider something like this because the cat of my car dissolves and makes rattle noises.

Hello, there is a change of candle on my car and I wanted to ask what you always do on the threaded passage of the glow candle? I used the candles from my old car with ceramic paste and they were baked so hard after years that even one is broken off. Have seen that there is also a “special” candle grease from Beru or should I screw it in better dry, without web dinging with any mediums?

Hello, I’ve been thinking about the sizes of torque and power when driving a car and I’ve read a few things about it. I’ve often read that the power is decisive for the acceleration. But if I think now that the angle acceleration on the crankshaft is directly proportional to the torque of the engine, what role should the power play? I’d like to have a clear picture of how the current power and the current rotation-mom My ideas: I know that power and torque are not independent of each other, but are related to the speed. If I now think about what makes the acceleration when driving, I think of two arguments: 1) The acceleration is proportional to the angular acceleration of the crankshaft. This in turn is proportional to the adjacent torque -> thus determined the torque the acceleration. 2) To accelerate a car kinetic energy must be transferred. The current power of the engine indicates how much energy per time it transfers to the car. -> so the power determines the acceleration. Which of the statements is correct? Is it at all one or can you unite both somehow?

I have a golf 4 cylinder head 1.6 VW 8V (8 valves) suction engine no racing engine ,ultra slow The cylinder head has been dismantled and (Ultra sound) cleaned , valve guide has also been ejected. (Nock shaft is also developed ) What I bring are new valves, new valve guides, valve shaft seal Following work should be done #gas fixed valve rings for outlet side. 4x #ventile insert #as well as valve guide install 8x #naturally the inlet side venti And now comes the hammer, get price suggestions from 800€ and waiters and if I come without material, I get prices from 1600€ people where should this lead now? The best I asked the lady on the phone what would be with the 16v 1.4 engine from golf 4 then she meant so, that would cost about 3600… that was of course not meant seriously by my side, but she probably didn’t understand the price Kalkulati is on astronomical. Is this really the reality now ? or I have not yet arrived ? Since I have no desire to touch a burner any more, because really is worth it really soon just electric drive or to upgrade.. I asked 9 motor repairers

Hello, people from 1.7.2023 gives new AU mesprochement for diesel vehicles starting from Euro 6 standardhttps://www.boschaftermarket.com/…/gas inspection guide-6 For days I read various forums that most people simply do not pass the new standards. My acquaintances with His car that has only 80tsd and Bj2018 did not make it either. Does the next diesel scandal come but this time paid by the normal people? I ask you have already done Tüv this month? the next 2 years carefree. Another question I have for the experts among us what is their opinion? How should it go on ? If you don’t exist for example changes his DPF? and what if not DPF is the cause and maybe injectors? For me this will be a Never ending story. I think about my 4 years good diesel for sale but would like to drive at least 4 years because I just like the car. I would be very interested about your opinion about how we (d) go far.

Hello, Today, after visiting the family, I drove home about 29km. The way home led mostly over a curve, mountainous country road. Since strong rain was prevailing & it was already dark, I fit my speed and drove so 55 – 60 km/h. After a curve came an area in which on the road a large puddle formed. It was also more difficult that I had no high-light due to oncoming traffic, which also I could not see clearly how deep these Ps As I was riding through the puddle with the speed mentioned above, this was of course to be noticed and clearly heard by the water pitching up on the sides. Then I reduced the speed again to approx. 45 km/h. From this point I drove still about 20km home, further with adapted speed, tending to be a little more careful and nervous, because I had been very scared (starters). uf the country road, partly in urban traffic, I could not notice any significant changes in driving behaviour, switching, giving gas, braking, everything without problems. My question now: Would any damage, i.e. water strike or similar possible? Would the remaining journey of about 20 km have been possible at all with a damage? Could I now still detect problems at a later start? I hope someone can take something away from me.

Good morning Together, for a while the too high fuel consumption at our 2.0 TDI DSG 150 PS Ecomotive mj. 19. This is in practice like a petrol engine, between 7 and 8 liters although we live in the countryside, the part is rarely on traffic lights and I drive like a walking dune with it, my wife rather normal. Friends think, yes would be normal heavy car etc, but these are other models as well. I had a Tiguan with the 150 hp TD last autumn. I and 7 gear DSG as a rental car. See there: Without taking any consideration of the consumption, often full load, the consumption long distance highway approx. 6L and if you want also on short distances on 6L. Above all the consumption did not go so extremely high when climbing or accelerating. And:, The Tiguan was here still in the drive-in phase, where the consumption is indeed higher. I wonder why that is. We have a butter and bread Alhambra, the Tiguan was almost fully equipped thereby be The factory data are not far apart either. Were there such strong improvements between Mj19 and 22 which produce about 25 to 30% lower consumption in reality, how differ the engines technically than? The pure weight is only perhaps 5 to 7% difference. I would have been interested, because the consumption with a constantly more expensive diesel price makes the small diesel practically meaningless and all that I would like to follow Maybe someone knows what. Best regards from Baden-Württemberg

In my car a Varta Blue Dynamic B18 with 12 V and 44 Ah is installed. I bought the car only recently used. One day the engine did not start, battery had 11.8 V. Then I charged the battery at home with a charger, shortly afterwards the voltage was 12.5 V. After a few days the voltage was 12.2 V, although the battery was only standing around. However, the measurement results can be enjoyed with care. (How can I get the accuracy of the measuring device ts check?) Then I put them back in the car and the engine started again. However, I am now afraid to drive away, because then I might not come home and then have to look for start-up help. How can I check if the battery is still ok or I need a new one? For example, would it be a measure to start the engine, to turn it off immediately, to start it again, etc. and to see how often this works, and if it is less than X times klap pt to buy a new battery? I have a multimeter, but I have no idea how I can measure flown charge, for example, to measure how much charge between “full” and “empty”, or vice versa, flows pure during the charging process. Thank you in advance for your advice!

Hello dear community, we have a Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Chamonix Edition, unfortunately blue-eyed privately imported from Japan, without importer. 3L 185PS gasoline, BJ 2001. According to Japanese export certificate the engine (mark PD6W) Euro 1. We are superior on whether and how we get the vehicle on the road. With the BJ he probably needs at least Euro 3. Our consideration was with a modified exhaust line and one (or several?) cat the pollutant emission on the better Euronorm. Exchange engine might also be a possibility. In any case, the high costs for this would come to us (e.g. due to exhaust gas reports etc) is known to us. The question is only whether and what would be possible and what would it cost so that we can make a decision whether we have to give up our dream car or not. Thank you and many greetings Michael