Category: Engines & Drives Forum

In various discussions I have read some good approaches about the start-up. Through my years of work in the tribological field I want to contribute something to the enlightenment. Despite technological advances in the dimensional stability and surface quality, an “adaptation” of the machine elements to each other is inevitable. During the infeed, both the roughness peaks are removed as well as by chemical Raektion and physical Adsorption (see Additive) as cover-up This wear protection layer is about 0.02 to 0.05 nm (nanometer). This wear protection layer is important for cold running, bumping loads or short-term poor lubrication. Wear protection layers are repeatedly obstructed or destroyed during brutal entry into construction. Therefore, medium loads are useful. has shown that the inlet wear is very high up to about 6 h. This means that during this time wear is higher than the protection and there are still many higher roughness peaks. From 7 to 10 h the wear is slowly flattening. From about 15 h only a small wear is visible. For practice this means that if you start an average of 60 km of driving distance per hour: the first 600 km (10 h) with as low a load as possible (also avoid undertouring) in the speed b from 600 to 1000 km quiet times for 2 to 3 seconds in the 2nd and 3rd gears let the engine run up to approx. 1000 rpm under the nominal speed. The engine must learn to turn. At high speeds the mass forces in the crank drive are higher than the gas forces. Thus, for example, the piston rings in the upper and lower dead point are carried out further than normal and thus the wear marks are extended. The engine then becomes more revolving. From about 1000 km you should go on the highway, radio off, the ear on the engine and increase the speed. This as long as the engine does so with light gas feet. When reaching about 20 to 30 km/h below the maximum possible speed at least 40 to 50 km (even more is better). By this drive my engines had a quiet run, little oil consumption and a lower fuel consumption than the by acquaintances. (also gearboxes must be retracted) Greeting

Good evening, I’m not sure if this is the right area for my question. Wouldn’t like to protect my vehicle against martens that are very active now in spring. Since my vehicle has a rather small underrun protection. (See photos) And since I’ve had a marten bite several times, I guess the colleagues climb in there. My idea is to close the way as shown with the boxes (see photos), with a plastic cover and metal screws. would be: What about the engine temperature? (Would the plastic pieces still have holes in the diameter of ca-3.4cm. Metal screws in the axle carrier? Would this be a problem from the stability? High-voltage plates in addition to the wheel houses, or longitudinal beams (where they also come in) Greetings

Hello guys. I drive a Super Seven with 2 liters Ford OHC. When I bought the car, the engine (characterized NE) was equipped with two 48 IDE 6 carburetors, which were also totally adjusted, so that the engine just stuttered below a good 3,000 rpm. Since I found no one who could really adjust the carburetors (more than with the CO meter adjust the stand gas), I got myself something into the matter and think that the engine now can be In any case, the CO measurement with stand gas and around 3,500 rpm showed good values, so I didn’t have to put anything on it for the last TÜV. However, I’m afraid that the 48 carburetor for this engine is a corner too big. I don’t find any real help on the web, which carburetor is ideal for the 2 liter engine with about 110 hp and what effect a small carburetor would have. I don’t run any races and don’t want to get more power out of the engine. measured 110 hp are ok. But even in the most tame driving mode, the 800 kg heavy car needs its 12 liters when I step it needs 15-16 liters and I let myself be told that a well-set Ford OHC can do less on average with about 3-4 liters. That would be for example a reason to think about the carburettor change. Therefore, I hope from you a short explanation, what difference the carburettor size in Puncto adjustability, performance over the speed band and d consumption. Can someone help me?

Hello dear forum community, a few days ago we discussed in the association the necessity of changing cooling fluid controversially. Nobody knew exactly, so my feeling, for this the discussion was all the more excited. Really crazy, what moves people emotionally…. How is that really, if you only take into account the naked technical facts? 1. Is an exchange of cooling liquid at certain intervals necessary at all? 2. If yes, why only? Can’t water and will not get bad either !?

Hello, I have a Nissan Micra k11 Bj. 1995 with a CVT transmission and the famous magnetic powder coupling. I have some idea of cars, only unfortunately none of AT transmissions at all the following problem: In slippery rides especially when I drive slowly into a driveway (about 10-20 km/h) a squeaking can be heard, which sounds almost as if a V-belt would squeak. The squeaking becomes more when everything is at operating temperature. If the squeaking occurs and I do a little more The car is only recently in my possession and was previously driven by an older lady who spent about 19 years each year doing something more than 2000 km. Maybe a transmission expert is on the way or someone who had a case like that. Oh yes. Gear oil has changed. Error memory is empty. Thank you in advance.

Hello, I would like to ask the “knowledgers” among you what kind of damage this picture indicates to the engine. Background: Renault in FD diagnosed at least one oily and defective turbo on the car. As a result there was an estimate including AGR cooler which was also defective in the amount of 7500 €. Since this is about a dealer’s warranty, he did not want to have the car repaired at Renault but in his partner workshop. The dealer then informed me that the turbos are obviously “new” and the engine has a problem. What exactly the engine now has he could not tell me. Just engine damage. The engine is now repaired and the turbos stay out first.You can see on the exhaust side already quite a lot “oil” … but on the one loader just also. Maybe one can write me accordingly.

Hi Forum, I am currently driving a Alpina B5 BiTurbo (G31, 608 hp) and looking for an alternative to the XADO engine – wear protection oil additive Twin Turbo, which I have used in many vehicles for years. XADO however states that the addition can not be used in vehicles with special hardening coating of the cylinders (ALUSIL, LOKASIL, NIKASIL, GALANIKAL). However, according to Alpina, the B5 engine has crankcases that are coated with aluminium (later engines LDS). h with the XADO engine – wear protection already gained experience (before/after compression measurement) I am actually convinced… What would you recommend to me as an alternative for the engine? With regard to the engine oil, I switch to the ROWE HIGHTEC SYNTH RS SAE 5W-40 during the next oil change. VG Tom

Hello together I had given Hydrozungsl additive engine oil to it (petrol suction cup). Unfortunately with the result that since that the engine starts very cumbersome. Is there a connection here? Can one undo the additive again? thank you for your opinions…. Many greetings…

I am currently looking at used cars with a maximum of 20 Tkm. Now it’s about the topic, how the car was treated by the previous owner (which I can’t know): driving in the engine, warm/cold, very high-touring, only short distance etc. I realize that the same thing will have its consequences at 100 Tkm mileage (not only for the engine). But what does it look like with a low mileage of less than 20 Tkm? Does that make a considerable difference? (It’s not just for the engine) Here around BMW 6-cylinder engines.) I hope I am also in the right forum with the question.

I haven’t read it yet on German pages, but I could tell from French sources that Peugeot will no longer install an EAT8 transmission with 1.2 PureTech engines in the future. (https://www.largus.fr/…/…-nouveau-moteur-12-puretech-10754391.html) Instead, a double clutch transmission with an integrated mild hybrid system is supposed to be used. This is extremely bad, because there were only PSA converters in small cars (I’m not talking about Stellantis, but about the former ones). Aligen PSA-brands Peugeot, Citroën, DS, Opel). To this end it was an Aisin unit, of which reliability can be expected. However, I welcome the fact that the revised 1.2l PureTech will receive a control chain in the future, which will replace the vulnerable timing belt running in oil. Nevertheless, I mourn the converter machine. What do you think about this circumstance?