Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello, with my bmw f11 with the n57 (3l d) with 182tkm the dpf is slowly full. get in the fs more often entry that the pressure sensor before dpf has one away. Was again. I read the counterprints times which is quite high and the regeneration intervals become shorter. So the dpf has to be cleaned therefore my question what can you recommend a thermal or chemical cleaning. I have read something in the topic and both have before as well as disadvantages. the dpf is not laid and so often burned until it is clean. But how do the ash get out? In the case of chemical treatment it can happen that the ceramic is melted and only the soot has been cleaned which may not lead to proper successful cleaning. Have you made an experience which cleaning is better and which company you can recommend Thank you.

Hello, Can you install a turbocharger (abgasturbo) and a compressor in one engine at the same time ?

Good evening, I disassembled the engine of my S3 (Bhz Ea113) today and these pistons (in the appendix) were installed. These white on all 4 cylinders jumps on the piston shirt on the side of the piston (the impacts on the piston shirt come from the broken ceramic of the spark plugs). In my opinion, they did not withstand the performance (ca 550ps at 2.0 bar charging pressure) So now to my questions: Does someone have any other conjecture or idea which created the jumps? And someone knows about which I can’t find a brand or part number on the things.

Hello diesel engine specialists, I need your help. What happened? I have a light motor vehicle (moped car) with a diesel engine Lombardini LDW 502. This is a 500 ccm 2 Zyl. 4-stroke diesel suction engine. For this I made an oil change and filter change and after the refill of the oil level was about 5mm above the upper mark on the oil rod (addition for the new (empty) oil filter. At the first start after the change the engine started at high speed. That sounded not normal and I immediately switched off the ignition after approx. 2-3 seconds running time at high speed. I released some oil again, so that the oil level is between the min and max brand. The motor can be rotated by hand on the flywheel (at the shaft output) and has noticeable compression. Here is my question to the specialists: Can I now start the engine normally again or must preparatory work be carried out? What is to be done? I hope you can help me and am grateful f for helpful contributions. Greetings, Fritze

AutoBild has currently selected 10 “losers” of their permanent tests. Link Away from “normal woes”, actually a nice cross section of what is always warned of here on MotorTalk (in the purchase advice). 1.0 Ecoboost ends after various problems with an engine damage; the catastrophic Subaru Boxer Diesel; DPF, AGR and the DQ250DSG at EA189 TDI in Q3, DQ200 in the Gulf before 200,000km. Individual cases, still inadequate technology at the older models or a realistic warning in Towards low-cost 3 cylinders, DCTs and long-term consequences of modern diesel engines? What do you think?

Hi forum, don’t worry, I don’t have to try this configuration and don’t want to turn 5 tuning boxes in series to achieve six times the power I’m only interested in what happens once when you equip a vehicle with a chip tuning (chip tuning software on the engine control unit) and then a so-called tuning box “before” this engine control unit jams? Does it cause error messages? Does the power increase pick up? What do you think? VG Tom

Hello, I don’t want to know what is different to other engines that I know. I’m interested in the advantage of constructions. What makes the engines so different? How much fuel do they consume to conventional constructions? Suppose you would take a conventional Mazda engine with the same cylinder capacity and PS. What can the Skyaktiv do better? I find both so fascinating. But has the new construction been worthwhile? Do you remember the optimized combustion of the X engine? Are there surprises? differently asked: Is a Skyaktiv motor worth moving? Bye

Hello in the round! I wonder if it makes sense to give full throttle if I move in a low speed range, but I want to speed up as fast as possible. Alternatively, I could push the accelerator slower and give the engine time to come at higher speeds. I think that the latter swallows less fuel and is at least the same fast if the timing is correct, if not faster. Do you agree? Greetings

Symptoms Rugging/shaking/dump vibration at 1800-3000U/min under load, under it very discreetly maximum…Mountain softer and uphill rougher… Stronger the higher the gear…especially from 4th. In lower gears one is too fixed during acceleration through the speed range. Dome I’m out of rest within seconds. I walk as it shakes only from the gas abruptly it shakes further. Over this speed completely normal also with full power for my feeling to final speed Start quietly, however, looks like the engine generates more vibration especially from 1500 rpm. Shows itself at the roaring of air intake channel in the engine compartment etc. I can’t say certainness that it shakes at already stronger. You get used to so fast. Switching operations, especially down amplifies uncleanly when coupling. As if something were swinging. Generally load changes are accompanied by a slight jerk. Does that sound like ZMS? It revolves around an Audi A3 TDI hand scarf. ers Bj2010 162500km.

Hi, I checked my operating instructions and found this point. Drive Astra K with automatic. Grad in winter it is known that the things switch ultra high in order to bring the cat to temp.. But this is rather beneficial for wear or not? With the hand switch nobody gets the idea to beat the engine over 3000U. But why is it that way with the automatic? What is meant by “limited” speed with Opel but also with other manufacturers? If my engine is cold and I kick it then the speed goes up as well. Somehow I don’t understand this point. The engine should be protected, but ONLY, if you drive a switch or what? degree of turbo throws away with such a treatment.