Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hi, I have a question about today’s modern cars. It used to be that diesel was pulling better than gasoline. But what was that about? Is the diesel engine in itself built in such a way that it builds up more torque compared to the petrol engine, or does it have something to do with the turbocharger? New vehicles are almost all equipped with a turbo. It is said that today’s petrol engines drive exactly like diesel vehicles. Is that really true? I’ve never driven a diesel before. And that’s why I want to know exactly. I have a small example to say that this is not the case. Golf 7 GTI vs. GTD. The GTD pulls off the GTI when starting and for a short time. But why is that? The GTI (we take the normal one) has 220 hp and 350 Nm from 1500 rpm. The GTD with its 184 hp delivers 380 Nm from 1750 rpm. So are these 30 Nm decisive for the faster acceleration, or is it also on the engine itself? Both have a 2 Nm. l engine. Once assumed GTI and GTD would race against each other without a turbo. Who would do the race there? In the past it was so that diesel without a turbo were the total crutches. Would that be comparable to gasoline suction engines? So: Do today’s turbo gasoline FAST drive like diesel, or is that not comparable despite the extra power of the turbo?

Hello dear friends, I drive a 6N2 1.4 TDI AMF. With the vehicle the change interval is reached in approx. 100 km. However, I did not get an appointment in my workshop until the end of April. Until then I certainly still drive a good 2500 km, because I am at the moment quite tensed. Now to my question. I got the new timing belt myself at my own request and is at home. So I have a very good comparison between new and old. In the picture below. Can I still drive the short month with it, or should I rather switch to an alternative and leave my car standing? Sure, it’s always a lucky thing and no one can predict the future. But maybe there is the one or the other who has had a similar situation here. Hope you can help me. MfG, tspg

Hello, if a question about engine wear testing, the basic measurement of the bore is determined with the messchuhe. if I measure e.g. 81,27, is then rounded up to 81,5 or 81,30? the setting of the subito with the messchuhe is decisive. many thanks in advance.

In another post of the forum I stumbled over Keropur. So far I did not know such additives at all. The manufacturer applied the stuff with pictures of cleaner valves. Sounds quite good for a layman like me for the time being. But are there also serious tests, in which the testers looked at the engine before and after the use of the miracle remedy, for example with an endoscope? Has it been proven that these additives really benefit the engine because they remove residues or is the only money tailoring? The videos at YT don’t leave a good feeling with me, because there is more guessed and appreciated, instead of really well-founded checks. I have a G7 with 122 hp and usually fill E10 at Hem, and I drive rather little (75,000 km in ten years).

I needed an M12x1.5 for a Honda CBR-900, but the same thread also has x other models, manufacturers and car engines. This part has a magnetic pin that should hold iron abrasion in the oil, and a hole where you could attach a seal for racing (should avoid falls of other bikers due to oil loss). For the sake of caution, I asked the dealer if this was the case for the original (steel) bolts. This is also true – yes, that has been confirmed. BUT then it turned out that the thread is already spinning at 25 Nm. The photo shows how it is torn off at the shaft. Not surprising, because the wall thickness is reduced by the bore for the magnetic pin. And the 30 Nm is also needed to effectively press on the aluminium sealing disc. So this is a FELLOW CONSTRUCTION of the good technician colleagues from the Far East. And there is the danger, besides oil loss > Engine damage for bikers also: > Fall when the oil splashes on the wheel – there are also a few drops.

Moin! I have a classic bearing damage to a crankshaft bearing, while dismantling the crankshaft further damage to two of the other bearings was noticed. However, there are no bars or grinding marks to be recognized but a ca. 1mm deep holefrass. (see pictures) Is a mystery how such a thing can happen to me??? There are also no discolorations of the metal which would indicate strong heat effect. Has anyone seen this before or an idea what the cause is? Could? Thank you very much for every info! LG

In the upcoming engine overhaul, a nut is welded in by the workshop, so that afterward the ignition/gasifier (SU-H2) can be adjusted correctly by the test device. My idea is to install a permanent probe later and determine the ratio via the voltage that the probe provides. As I understand it, the probe needs a preheater (12V positive earth available) and probably deliver a linear flattening of 0 to 1V. If this is confirmed here. the value would have to be verifiable with a simple measuring instrument.

I drive an old Super Seven with 2 liters Ford OHC (105hp, ID NE, m.W. unmodified). When I bought the car, the engine was equipped with 48IDF carburetors (arg-adjusted) which I have barged for running, but I am not really satisfied. Although the 48IDF offers quite constant performance at the top, the “hole” in the lower speed range is finally quite pronounced. I do not drive the car on the track and do not look for the last HP in the above In the lower/medium range between 1,500 and 4,000 rpm, I want a fairly constant power, without starving up. In the net, I find both 40 IDF and 44 IDF hits. I feel that the jump from 48 to 40 is too big, so I think the 44 IDF is a good compromise. But before I install and vote the carburettors, I still have to set the Venturi size. They are supposed to make the biggest difference in performance. The 44IDF has 36 Venturi (-20% through) by default. If I would go to the 40IDF, the 28mm Venturi (-50% through) has experience. Does any of you really have the size of the Venturi with the power curve and which Venturi best fit the OHC? I have thought about building 34 Venturi. Then I would be in the middle / -30%. Does that make sense on the 2.0 Ltr OHC?

I’ve been offered cheap PT CRD,Bj. 2012 because I’m looking for a diesel and I like the PT because it stands out from the crowd I’m interested in PT, I’ve already read a bit about the front axle, I don’t think so serious. Are there other typical flaws ? rust ? engine ? gearbox (manual) ? 150000 km should not be the problem ? MfG

Moin , Have a problem Au Not existing Opel Astra G 1.6 16 V XEL 101 Ps Km 237500 Km run. co content in heard idle 0,480 would have to be 0,30. Passed idle. Engine oil 5w30 Drin. He smokes if man gives gas up 6000 rpm and immediately lets go , then back comes blue smoke out . Have also already asked workshop said piston rings defective . Compression 1 cylinder 15 bar , 2 cylinders 14 bar , 3 cylinders 14 bar , 4 cylinders 15 bar . New cat is in now have noc hmal 15 w 40 oil in it. Tuesday to tuv. Question to you I can still continue driving as long, want to drive soon on vacation. Or prefer Before piston rings and restock. Or just piston rings. What have you made for suggestions experience with oil burning engine. Greetings jochen In advance Thank you