Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello all, My Audi TFSI burns about 1L of mot oil every 500-1000 km and I want a definitive real repair with new pistons, widespread piston stripping rings, chain tensioners etc. Could you share your experience with companies throughout Germany (or possibly throughout Europe) here for such a repair? I ask this question because I have difficulty finding a proper company. I regularly read a link of a company on the Internet, but then I also find experiences the I live in Waldshut Tiengen on the Swiss border, I am also available 500 km to drive. It is important that the engine would be properly repaired. I apologize if the topic has been discussed. Thank you in advance. MfG Giancarlo

With my 6.75l V8 Twin Turbo Arnage, the engine shakes slightly in the empty run. After switching on, you don’t feel anything yet, only after a few seconds when the speed comes down to 650 rpm (normal idle speed). It’s regular small bumps he gives all few seconds of himself. You can also hear it from the exhaust. All ignition coils Ignition cables and spark plugs are new Fuel filter is new He doesn’t show any faults. Petrol pressure is only 3.5 bar in idle and the pointer twitches slightly to 3.7 if I play with the gas. 2x petrol pump from Bosch is installed. Does it seem to me far too little for suction pipe injection. Power supply is tested. Is it already in the bucket after 124,000 km? Well the car is 19 years old. I did not find a regulator valve and is not visible in a diagram either? The successor models have one, according to the diagram and parts catalog. Does anyone have an idea about what I could still look at?

Moin, I’m looking for another car with automatic in the medium term, which is long-lasting and robust at 30000km/year with about 15000km of city share and with which I can draw a good conscience 1400kg caravan (2-3x a year, maybe 3000km). I’m not set on a brand, but would like to have a used mid-range limousine with diesel engine. I always hit the Aisin-Warner TF-80 SC (or AWTF-80 shrieked), which is a 6-speed converter automatic. Citroen C5, in the Peugeot 508 (will now be replaced with the introduction of the 508 II), in Mazda6 and in some Volvos, Ford Mondeos and also in the Opel Insignia 2.0 CDTI. So really widespread, which should be a good sign. A burned child shys the fire, I therefore also looked directly for problems with the gearbox. And there you find unfortunately through the bench (so with all vehicles) so some reports of gears, which start to switch badly (backly) and then i A gear oil change doesn’t help because it’s a different, bigger problem. But it’s difficult for me to assess the proportion of problems. Is the TF-80 SC a well-known problem bear, or do I stumble over heaped individual cases here? 😉 Can someone, with caravans, tell you about the durability of the gear at their own car? Thanks and greetings chrisdash

I would like to address you today because there have been massive problems with my vehicle above: The vehicle is currently in repair at the DRESEN car dealership, one of the largest car dealerships in Neuss near Düsseldorf, among other things because of an obvious engine damage at a current mileage of 59,500 km, i.e. less than 60,000 km. The vehicle was last inspected on 19 December 2012 at a km stand of 36,639, the inspection was carried out within the advance 24 months after EZ. The inspection was registered at a km stand of 35,401 on December 7, 2012. This was because I was very tense and very busy in 2012 within Germany. On this occasion I also had original KIA winter tyres mounted on rim on December 7, 2012 I was not informed, however, that in case of a possible later damage the KIA 7-year yarn can be omitted if an inspection is not possible. I am not aware of how and where the vehicle was supposed to have lost cooling water, nor was the vehicle too much strained, so that there might have been a possible overheating of the engine. Now, most likely, the head seal should be defective, further damage cannot be ruled out, since the engine had not yet been completely disassembled (as of Friday, 27.9.2013 at 8:30 am). The vehicle was towed by the ADAC on behalf of the KIA emergency call centre on Sunday 22 September 2013. I don’t know why, where and how water loss occurred. There were no abnormalities, everything in the normal range, no loss in torque or similar, no warning about too high water temperature or other control lights. The KIA contract workshop also has no explanation for this. As it currently looks like, I have the damage of around € 2,000 on the cheek. I would like to ask you to take care of the matter once, an application for guarantee receipt was commissioned by the dealer, as well as of course the 60,000-km inspection.

Hello, I have already Googled with, but unfortunately found nothing suitable. Which exhaust gas filter exists or was there for diesel vehicles between 1990 and today? Can one derive from the pollutant class which filters a vehicle has? Background is the planned purchase of an older diesel vehicle (manufacturer and model is not yet established) in the range of pollutant classes Euro 2 – Euro 4. In the ads only the pollutant class is indicated, but not whether and which exhaust gas cleaning I’ve got a vehicle.

Batteries are heavy, starters are heavy too. In the past, mechanical energy was needed to start combustion engines. Then you have done it comfortably electrically. At the latest with the electric injection, but you could have solved the start process differently. With a small compressed air chamber and with an automatic injection nozzle/detonation it should actually be possible to start any burner. In the many cavities in the engine housing you can store the compressed air, condensation the necessary energy for ignition injection, central locking, stand light etc. and when the engine is running provide induction loops for further consumers. Who has arguments against it?

Hello guys, I have a question for the motor professionals, to whom I unfortunately could not find an answer. I drive a 330i gasoline direct injection, N53 engine. As is well known this sometimes has problems with injectors, high pressure pump, cokes etc. I do not have these problems at the moment, since I had the cokings removed and had 6 new injectors installed. Now one has told me that with E10 such problems can be prevented in the future, because E10 injectors and Hochdruc So far I have avoided E10 like the devil’s holy water. What about this statement?

@ Mods I will post it in several sub forums, crossposting because I don’t just want to address a specific car brand. Thank you for understanding. Hello, I would be very happy about a support from you. I am working on the determination of the average efficiency of a petrol engine as well as diesel engine in real driving mode. I just get all the fakenews about the verbenner of alleged 15% efficiency etc.. For this I need a realistic driving prof il. Is nothing but a v-t diagram. So on the X Abzisse the time is applied and on Y then the speed. For example, you can easily create a GPS tracker with your smartphone and then simply follow your everyday life (do not tunnel). First as a privacy notice. I don’t care about your GPS track points, where you could understand where you went. But only the diagram with a small marginal note whether it is in the section around a country road, autobah The WLTP test cycle is of course available, but I think it is completely unrealistic. It is accelerated from the beginning to 45 km/h, either there are apparently 45 zones that I don’t know or someone is driving extremely carefully. Then it is slowed down to 10 km/h, no traffic lights. Of course perhaps dense traffic or a fork in the road. Only it is slowed down several times to 10 km/h during this cycle. Also during overland journeys. That’s why I keep the WLTP for r unrealistic. Would be great if you could create such profiles. In return, I will publish my result with the data. Then you have a sound argumentation basis. Thank you very much.

As I see in the thread “Torque and Elasticity” there are no misunderstandings about the connection between torque and power here on Motor-talk.de. Otherwise I sometimes have the impression that the misunderstandings are almost more common than the actual connections. I have therefore tried to describe these connections as vividly as possible. The text is here on my page: http://www.dmot.at/ Maybe it is also interested here the one or the other By the way, my first post here is greetings to all

I have read more recently that normal suction engines can be retrofitted with compressors or turbochargers. Examples are the U.S. V8 in Mustang, Challenger and Camaro with compressor add-on. The Nissan Skyline and others with turbo upgrade, as well as hobby screwdrivers that increase their golf etc. by hundreds of hp. In the past it was always said that an engine would only be designed for a certain performance, if you deviate more than ~15% from it, then you risk the failure of all possible It’s all called a weak point. On the other hand, one reads that the said compressor and turbo upgrades without replacing components bring 50%-100% more power. What is the point now? Does anyone have a good online article for this?