Category: Engines & Drives Forum

I have read more recently that normal suction engines can be retrofitted with compressors or turbochargers. Examples are the U.S. V8 in Mustang, Challenger and Camaro with compressor add-on. The Nissan Skyline and others with turbo upgrade, as well as hobby screwdrivers that increase their golf etc. by hundreds of hp. In the past it was always said that an engine would only be designed for a certain performance, if you deviate more than ~15% from it, then you risk the failure of all possible It’s all called a weak point. On the other hand, one reads that the said compressor and turbo upgrades without replacing components bring 50%-100% more power. What is the point now? Does anyone have a good online article for this?

Hello people I have a problem with the pre-glow system of a Mercedes diesel engine. Every time you want to pre-glow, the fuse flies. The following I have done so far: cabling (+) separated from the first candle, fuse remains in it. So no short circuit at the wiring. Mass tape at the last candle separated, plus cables again clamped and fuse remains in it. Mass tape again mounted and the fuse flies out. The glow candles have already been renewed. glowing candles are connected to each other via the typical wire bridges. As slowly as I despair of the pre-glow system. On the glowing candles there are 0.9 V. Is this the maximum voltage the request is allowed or the minimum, so that the candles pre-glow. The plus cable comes from the ignition lock via a pre-glow indicator (a glowing wire) to the candles. I really don’t know any further at the moment.

Hello. I wanted to ask if this is true (I know that every menga is missing, but I just want to know if this is right at first): At high speed / load: With the camshaft adjustment one can open the inlet valve earlier (thereby also a valve overlap is created), so that one can still use the accelerator of the air column and on the other hand, (since every millisecond at high speeds is important, ) the “opening phase” of the inlet vent becomes The outlet valve can also be opened further, so that more exhaust gases can be pushed out. At low speed/load: The inlet valve can close later (also a valve overlap) so that the mixture can be pushed a little into the inlet channel again, so that less mixture is then in the cylinder overall and the engine is more economical, among other things. Or the inlet valve opens earlier so that exhaust gases can be pushed into the inlet channel and then works like an internal exhaust gas return. The effect is similar to when you close the inlet valve later. The outlet valve can be closed earlier so that some exhaust gases remain in the engine and then the stroke “artificially reduced”. The engine is also more economical. Sorry that all this was written differently. And as I said, I would like to know from you whether the task of camshaft adjustment is.

Hello! At the first start after the oil change, the Opel made a very ‘ugly’ sound for about a second – was there something, possibly the turbo, short unlubricated? What should I have done to prevent this? Let off oil when the engine is cold, fill oil filter glaucoma with oil when changing filters? Thank you in advance!

Hi, I have a question about the new petrol engines with OPF. You should always drive a diesel warm and short distances should be avoided, so that the DPF doesn’t get worse. What is the situation now with the new petrol engines? Petrol engines reach a high temperature faster and the OPF is burned out so faster. But what is it like now with shorter distances? Can the OPF also get better? So from now on, modern petrol engines can only be used for longer distances. ? Is the decision irrelevant whether petrol or diesel? Greeting

Hi. I want to buy a Seat Leon. I’m thinking if it should be automatic. So I did some test drives. I want to have 150 Ps and a sporty driving should be possible. I have the feeling that it is slow during the overtaking process. Why: When I see a gap in the overtaking lane I give gas. The automatic transmission switches down and the car accelerates. But switching down the transmission takes a moment. Therefore, during the test drive I have f The car had two modes: D for automatics and S for manuals. I noticed, however, that I do not have to switch to S for pressing the switch paddles. My question now: can I drive in this way with an automatic transmission or is this harmful to the gearbox? Do you see this also so that this mode is better accelerated. t as the use of pure automatic or do I do something wrong? Thank you Lg.

Hello, I have no idea of cars and therefore turn to you. I was walking in the forest for a few hours today and when I was on the way home again, I heard a jerking during the ride, which I also noticed in the parking lot in the empty run. I then opened the engine compartment and saw that my cover was totally broken and in the engine compartment every now and then after the on/off strong air currents prevail and a loud noise from the engine compartment come t (sounds like a vacuum cleaner). Therefore I suspect that a madman was at work. In such a case, are there tips that a layman can check before he drives into the workshop? The board computer now also reports engine errors, I dare not even drive a meter with the vehicle. It is about an Opel Grandland X petroler. I could also provide photos from the engine compartment if it helps. My vehicle is a privately leased car that fully kasko insured. What does it usually look like in case of marten damage, is it borne by the insurance companies? LG

Greetings, I’m about to buy a Cupra Ateca with 4Motion and wanted to ask you how the experiences with 4Motion are here. Can 4Motion give the Quattro the water? Would a 4Motion get up the snow mountain just like a Quattro? It also depends on how good the winter tyres are. As far as I know, Quattro is permanent, and at 4Motion the rear wheels only switch when the wheels turn off at the front. Can you have as much fun with a 4Motion as b a quattro?

Good afternoon, Is there a company specializing in the construction of (one-mass) flywheels? For my VW T5 3.2L 4 Motion there is only the original two-mass swingwheel to buy. However, I would like to convert to a single-mass swingwheel. Does anyone know a company that could build such a flywheel or can convert the original to single-mass?

Hello, ride your car as little as possible short distance and as much long distance as possible. But why? To simplify it is assumed after 5km the engine is warm: then 5* 5km are worse than 1*25km. That’s clear, because you are 25km cold vs 5km cold and 20km warm But 5* 10km vs 2*25km ? Then you are 25km warm and 25km cold vs 40km hot and 10km cold But in all cases the first 5km are cold. Does it matter that the percentage of the entire engine operating time is as warm as possible? After the engine is warm, it will not be able to “make up” the cold track retroactively again, or will it be ?? Sure. The engine is blown free again but the resulting wear of the first cold kilometers can no longer be taken back. What do you say? Maybe this helps the one or other to better weigh the decision between car and bicycle / on foot LG Passi_27