Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello, as already described in the title I am looking for cheap alternatives to the G48 of Basf. What can you recommend me? With my W124 E 200 diesel the coolant has to be replaced every 3 years. Capacity 8.5L. How do you find such brands as zb Febi, eurolub or Mannol? At mannol I didn’t really get smart, since the green and blue ones have, then a back and forth with releases. Same with Febi, with some on it is MB 325.0, with some again not, all b ei of the same part number : Febi 22268. Only Eurolub is this clearly defined and released. there is also MB 325.0 I am grateful for your reply in advance Glysantin is simply too expensive for me, unless you make a snapper with small advertisements, just as I overtook the cooling system with my E39. since I paid for about 5L G48 concentrate about 30€.

Hello I have recently read the following couplings to be plucked on the Internet: The rupee excitation of a coupling increases with the transferable torque. I don’t understand what is meant by the term “transferable torque”. I know, however, that torque is a rotating force; so here around the axis rotating parts in the coupling Is this transferable torque a fixed size that is always the same with each passenger car? Or can the transferable torque in a passenger car change If the motor is turned at higher speed, is the transferable torque higher or always the same?

Hello dear car friends, I am talking about the following. the pressure loss test, a popular and good method aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa I have the engine so hung on the mounting block and out of curiosity installed the tester and read the values. I come to about 15% pressure loss. In itself not a worse value but the following: -Can it be that the loss will be much less when the rings and the mocking cut have fit in properly ? -Even though the engine was logically cold, If it is warm the values rise, correct ? Valves are 1000% dense, head is fresh gemac ht, sit milled, ground in, impeccable. I also hear that it passes by the piston or just the piston. If you would like to have comparative experiences like this with comparable stories where e.g. enter and temperature are the factor. Please look forward to lively exchange and to forming me a little further, greetings

Hello municipality I made an oil change on my snow cutter about 2 weeks ago and in this breath installed a new ignition coil as the old one said goodbye. After this action the whole spectacle went off. I just can’t get my milling machine started normally anymore and when it makes after the 15x tear times 2-3 bars it pushes out extremely much gasoline to the carburetor. It spits really. In my opinion that can’t happen with a 4 bars the petrol I had already pulled the cylinder head and checked valves and valve play at times, everything was fine and they were completely closed. I then ruled out problems with the valves. My next thought was that the carburetor gives quite a lot of fuel or swimmers or petrol taps do not completely make you and always let out gasoline but after the control I couldn’t do anything wrong. ..everything closes and seals off as it should. At the gasser itself there is no mixing screw to adjust the gasoline-air mixture. My next thought was that the candle does not ignite properly Bzw. There are no proper sparks. But this was also not so.. a rather strong spark flashed on but the candle was quite worn out but not wet but only black. Ahja..the snow blower has no lift filter I really despair because I have no clue ha be on what it might be. I am grateful for any help with kind regards

Hello together, we would like to replace our “old”, VW Passat Diesel 250tkm. Since the children now have their own cars we thought of a number smaller, i.e. about the “golf class”. At the moment, however, I already fail to drive. What is currently cheap and will also be cheap and still be allowed in the future? Petrol, diesel, hybrid, gas? An electric car is not mine, I could imagine a hybrid just now. (There are almost no charging stations here, also not at my We live in the countryside and drive short distances here, 2 times a week I drive about 170km and once a month about 700km. Which drive (except electric) would you recommend to me and why? Best regards, Joachim

Hi guys, I helped my buddy in the workshop yesterday. He recently measured compression on the engine (Opel Vivaro, 1.9 DTI) and found out that a glow plug thread is not so great anymore. When he turned the glow plug back in, he already noticed that it can be turned in strangely. Well, then the day before yesterday on the ride the glow plug flew out. Now he wanted to replace the thread with Helicoil yesterday and did not exactly escape to the bore for the n Glowstick drilled. Now the glow plug doesn’t really go in. What can you do now? Build any guidance and drill again at the right angle? Try to use a sleeve? Or just head off and look for another or have it welded up and re-drilled? Luckily this is just a craft car…but it would still be nice if it was running again.

Dear friends, I only drive LPG gas and so I basically always sailed around the topic of VAG. TSI/TFSI here, control chains there, gas unfit there. At the moment I drive a Touran I 1.6 106hp BSE and although the engine has less power than a toddler, I have rarely ever experienced a smoother ride. Clutch, steering, gear lever, accelerator all so typical butter-scent VW. And I also remember some beautiful Audis as diesel that had just this “softest”. And of course I have I look back at some Audis on the subject of gas… BUT With one principle I remain rock-resistant: NO DSG. Double clutch automatic gearbox will not be given to me. Even with CVT I am hard. When automatic, I always trust the classic converter. But my question is: Does Audi have any converters at all? On Audi’s website there is the Tiptronic, which is presented as a converter gearbox, but I don’t plan a new car. I’m talking about years of construction 2000 – 2010. it there converters? Also in “normal” motorizations like 1.6, 1.8, 2.0? Because I don’t intend to have a cylinder monster and even beyond the 2.0 I don’t want to go. And IF the converters have, how do you recognize them? And IF the converters have AND you recognize them, are the long-lived or rather petite problem children and money swallowers? Thank you in advance!

Hello all, I have seen that modern petrol engines (direct injection, turbochargers) have made enormous progress in terms of consumption in recent years (let’s say the last 10 years). With diesel, it’s more like going in the other direction, probably due to exhaust gas cleaning. But I find it hard that comparable petrol engines often only take one litre more (in real operation) than a modern diesel. Can anyone explain this development in more detail?

Hi, the days have crossed my way here and I wanted to capture some opinions about the pros and cons of such an engine here. Lghttps://innengine.com/concept/

Good day, I have the idea for a project and would like to know if this would go through with an approval. Idea: Peugeot 205 Rally Gr. B Self-conversion The Peugeot 205 which was used in the rally had mid-engine and four-wheel drive. I got the idea to take the complete technology of an all-wheeler car where the engine is sitting at the front and turn 180°. So the engine is in the back and with the difficulties that it brings (turning the steering arms, turning the differentials, etc.). guess that enough chassis has already been put on other cars but the question is whether you can get away with the rotation and the effective reverse driving. MFG Paul