Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello, we have, among other things, an almost new Ford EcoSport and I drive it with the clutch control reasonably gently. Certainly I don’t overdo it, make no religion out of it and even if I drive it already times, but overall I have gotten used to it over years and usually runs off unconsciously. But if I ride as a passenger ;-), I would like to draw the other driver’s attention to its hard coupling, since it happens almost always and sometimes even so strong, since ss I mean, through the powertrain always a real blow goes through including engine bearing. Can this a modern car in the long run and how do you drive like that?

Moin together, I drive a B-Class, manual gearbox and have recently funny, for me funny hints. It comes before that when comfortable driving, just such a kind of idle. It’s bad to explain, I drive, roll so cozy and if I want to certify then idleness is. The engine turns up as if there was no gear inside, the shift lever twitches but not ! Now I noticed that it also happens when the speed has dropped again, the force the flow is present again without touching the gear lever. There are no noises, no scratching or anything. Does anyone know what it is, could be ? The consideration is whether a repair is worth it. Thanks for your knowledge Greeting Torsten

Hello, since also younger used beziners (diesel already for a long time) have to be equipped with a particle filter, I ask myself the question to what extent the OPF can cause similar problems, as they say to the DPF. I have been driving a diesel (see signature) without DPF since 2008 and can therefore not agree with the problems with the particle filter. So far I also thought that at least my current driving profile – Mo-Fr every day 100 km – will continue to be the diesel Is this really the case? And: what does this look like with the petrol engine with OPF? Guess that the free-burning process also takes place off the highway without any problems. Is that correct? Greetings

Moin! The topic is well known on all sides. Can’t be that an engine gives up early. Unfortunately, that’s the way it is. Sometimes the cars have only 20000km on it and the cokings are clearly recognizable, at 60000km already considerable and at 100000km the engine needs an elaborate walnut shell cleaning. That can’t be. Incidentally, is a main reason why I wouldn’t buy a used direct injector at the moment. As far as I know, one can hardly Do something. Or are there any new developments that I don’t know anything about? What do you think? Is there anything you can do at all?

Hello together 🙂 In another thread someone threw into the room that the electrode distance in spark plugs would change significantly when they get hot. Can that be that this can cause them to have a particularly small measure in the cold state? If I overwhelm it mathematically, I come to a “growth” of less than 0.1 mm at a temperature increase from 20 °C to 600 °C. That’s very little. Do I miscalculate? This level seems plausible to me, it contradicts. t but the expert’s statement 😉 Are there still “today” – from the year 2000 – vehicles that need electrode distances of less than 0.8 mm? If yes …. why? Modern ignition systems should come with 0.9 … 1.2 mm wonderfully. Greeting Carsten

Hey guys, I opened the engine block from my Fiat Spider today (goes to hoard)… After I opened the oil tank, the whole 4 year old plumbers came up to me. (old thick liquid oil). Of course I let it off before.. yet there are plenty of leftovers in it. Now I thought.. Ok SB washing system and with high pressure cleaners the engine block and the oil tank cumshot… I don’t think that’s such a good idea or? Someone an idea what I can do without 300 rolls of cloth r to consume get clean? thank you

Hello guys, I always try to drive fuel-saving and always drive just under full throttle with accelerations to get into a high gear quickly. Now I wanted to know if it is more fuel-saving up to the maximum torque (are with me 3500 at full throttle) and then to skip a few gears (with the method I can switch from 2nd or 3rd to 5th), or if I pull up better up to approx. 2000 (still close to full throttle) and switch all gears through. I actually drive n ur in the city, car is a Suzuki Ignis 1.3 year 2000 with front drive (petrols).

Hi, I have a more sporty driving style, but I always drive in terms of what I think is the best for the car…. well, the following…I switch (except when starting and when someone is driving) always relatively fast and let the clutch almost fatten, (comparable to the clutch actions in motorsport)… The theory, clutch out quickly, full power lock, no wear (same as at a traffic light start at approx. 4000 rpm). the couplings have a vibration equalization, which absorbs vibrations of the crankshaft etc.. To what extent does this do other parts less good. The motor is not adapted slowly to the speed, but a nominal speed is forced on it depending on the speed and translation, on which it is set more or less strikingly. I can’t imagine if the coupling is rather sanded until the rotary zhal is correct. mfg

Servus, Finally I have my first own car (a Seat Leon 5f 1.2 TSI Bj 2013 with now more than 115,000 km). The last oil change was carried out 07/2020, since then the car has been driven 6,000 km, all of which was the previous owner and come from me 100 km. I used the car almost exclusively for short distances i.e. about 1.5-2 km single ride and then back home again (3/4 days a week). In addition, there are several longer journeys (simple ride 30 km), with this v In average every 1-2 weeks will happen once. Maybe extra-scheduled trips will also be added, which will never be longer than 10/20km. Now I wonder if I should make the oil change now or rather next year in March/April then. Actually, for short distances it is called an oil change once a year (or?). On the other hand, I was told “6,000 km for an oil change are nothing at all” (by a not directly layman, but also by far no expert). Bit for advice??

Sorry but our diesel engine has never been plagued, because the lying computer did not recognize the engine at the Tüv immediately or the like did not have to check a not 2 not 3 not 4 I think almost 8 times the engine hooligans, sorry he is now engulfed? When we drive home he went out now immediately 5 times. Thanks to the Tüv, how much commission do you get for destroyed cars? I will not be able to pay me any new groin as long as we still have to pay too much taxes as long as !!!! Thank you to the government and its parasites who are just afraid of losing power have money money money, And we bathe everything