Category: Engines & Drives Forum

I am asking myself this question right now…. All engines have become very complex nowadays. In the engine development one buys one advantage again with several other disadvantages. In addition, there are so rarely stupid misconstructions (e.g. TFSI) and quality problems (if we stay at the VW Group: control chain). Today’s motors: Direct injections have problems with the coking and the increased fine dust load. As a result, particle filters and other filter systems must be installed we In general, the engines have become more complex…. Turbo, the AGR also needs its cooling, with diesels the glow plugs like to bake. With the increased complexity of course also the susceptibility to errors increases and repairs can become very complex and expensive. At all I have the impression that not infrequently engines already after 50000km cause problems and many do not even 150000km. So if I buy a semi-current car nowadays, there are d a still engines that are recommended?

Hello, I’ve joined the community here and have a question. I’m forgiven if this topic has been here before. I’m looking for a mechanical V6 diesel engine. So in the period 80ger until 1994. Or are there ways to convert a V6 TDI to a mechanical turbo diesel? The reason for the mechanical V6 is that I don’t want to have or have as little electronics as possible.

Hello together, I am “non-brand” but you can certainly help me. Do you have documents or a program (like also analog with measuring slide, if by chance just removed) with which you can determine the inner diameter of the following cooler hoses based on the part numbers? Number 1Number 2 Unfortunately, the dealers can not help me any more. Background: After a motor conversion I have to change my cooling water line. Since there was not the engine in my model there is also No form hose for this project. Now I’m looking for a narrow 180° tube with 12 inner diameter which I could “flick” to my line. It has to be form hose – standard meterware knocks off. Thanks to you for all the information, tips and ideas you can give me during my project. Bimmel [Transferred from motor talk from the topic ‘Diameter Cooler hose’.]

It’s a Volvo D5 engine with 185 hp, 5 cylinder diesel. The car consumes oil with good warm-up of the engine. At short distance or 50km of land, no oil usage. At low engine load and below 100°C engine oil temperature no oil consumption. I have a cheap OBD2 plug to read out cooling water and oil temperature. I suppose, with good warm-up, the barrel bushes stretch so much that the piston rings do not I have two ideas to reduce oil consumption. 1. Exchange charge air coolers. This lowers the heat input into the engine through cooler charging air. If necessary, it also runs more efficiently and needs less diesel. The charge air cooler has many, many lamellas folded by insect impact. There is hardly any lamella straight. 2. Rinse cooling system. With the lowest point in the cooling system, the oil cooler sits. This is a block at the oil tank where cooling water is the oil If there are deposits in it, then the heat transfer to the water is worse. The engine runs a little warmer. Basically: I drove in the summer morning from 5:00 360km highway. All load levels. 120, 140, 160, 180 to 220 km/h. -No oil consumption. No difference on the tarmac. Air on the asphalt still cool. Then in the afternoon on the asphalt with 100kg more charge back. About cruise with 140/km. After 160km ~0,9L oil consumption. The air was very warm on the asphalt. Because of summer sun. Then different full-gas rides at night on the highway. 320km distance to the findings. Calculating about 1.5L oil consumption at 1,000km. Engine oil at 120°C and higher. Then I recently drove the 320km motorway with cruise control and 120km/h. the engine oil remains below 100°C. -No oil consumption. Next time I will drive the 320km so that I have 110°C motor oil. Let’s see if he then takes oil.

I have to decide soon between the Vectra C petrol engine with 1.8 L and 140 HP or the Mondeo 1.8 with 125 HP. QUESTION: which is more durable according to experience. Both in the year 2005 – 2007 and mostly Km-Stände 120′ to 170′ tsd. (I wouldn’t go over that. Should keep as much as possible 50′ tsd.). Who has experience / knowledge about it? Quite on the edge: which is better LPG – suitable, respectively. durability forecast, if with it already about 60 tsd. danger (just because I have an offer there, is not the main topic!).

Hi guys, yesterday I drove with a good buddy (starter). It also worked out so far, if you consider that he has hardly any experience. However, he wanted to take the reverse gear towards the end of the ride while parking and did this already too early. He said he had the car roll out after the forward drive or braked, kicked the clutch and just inserted the reverse gear a little too early. So the car was still slightly rolling. I guess it w 5km/h maximum. Well, at least the gearbox got in touch easily. So there was a light noise, so it was really quiet. But everything still works perfectly. Now he thinks a lot of things. Since I’m not an expert, I thought maybe one of you experts can calm him down a bit. LG Nico

Dear friends, I am a layman about engines, but in many places I hear (almost cliché-sounding) slogans that speak of “indestructible” engines. These slogans often fall when talking about old and above all large engines. “Good old V8 engine”. So these typical old amis with abstruse lifting spaces and that however with relatively low PS. Also with the Germans there are some engines that are often depicted as “unchaputtbar”, like about M54 row six, 2,2L S Audrey from BMW. My lay mind sees the following possible commonalities in these engines: 1. No turbocharger, but vacuum cleaner = less auxiliary technology that can run flutes 2. Relatively few hp on a relatively large capacity and material mass = less/less wear of the respective individual components, looser operation (not at the limit), less pressure, less forces that work. When I think of a small 1.4L engine that works with all possible steroids on beyond the 300hp I imagine what hell conditions are in there. Is this possible? Large suction motor with relatively moderate PS = durable and stable?

Dear Forum, Request for advice, it’s an emergency. I just went with the Ford Transit box van in Norway – bought AdBlue for filling the cooling water tank instead of distilled water and filled it in about 350-400ml. After that I drove 3h until I noticed it. What can happen now? Originally I just wanted to start the journey home to Berlin – so there are still 20h car rides in front of me. To the history of the car: the cooling water hoses have long been and me t, i.e. cooling water loss is a permanent topic; so I always have coolant & distilled water to refill. Now the question how to continue – go to the workshop in Berlin or straight to the Norwegian workshop? What to do now? Thanks to your opinion in advance! Ella

I’m just about to choose whether to buy a VW Polo as 80 or 95 hp petrol. I also drive a lot of federal roads but in my everyday life hardly on routes where you can drive more than 120 km/h. Therefore, it’s not about the speed but about the question whether it makes economic sense to buy a stronger engine. – The 95 hp engine consumes about 0.3 l less than the 80 hp at 100 km. (very nice but not buying) The crucial question remains: Can one say that larger engines generally live longer or are less prone to repairs? Are there any other advantages? In the specific case, the difference is 1200€, but in the case of higher motorization I would be forced to buy even more equipment from which I can use little, so that I would end up at 210€ price difference. Do you think that the higher motorization is worth?

Hello, on my Fiat with Lampredi engine (Oldtimer engine from 1978) the engine was overhauled last year due to piston eaters and water impact of the engine at the engine builder. New oversized pistons were installed with lower dome 4 mm for less compaction. Reason for piston eater: The previous owner had installed dome piston 8 mm, too high compaction, it came to piston eater and water impact at high speed. After now approx. 2000 km again cylinder head was dismantled by me since a valve When I wanted to mount the cylinder head again yesterday when I turned down the piston in cylinder 4 (thermally the most stressed, then the cylinder with piston eater) I found corresponding shades. There is nothing to feel with the finger/finger nail. Is about at half the height with interruptions around. Otherwise I noticed nothing. One possibility: At that time moisture was in Zyl. in the 4. The engine was at the engine manufacturer for some time. There it started to rust and even after drilling, honing, cross-cut this can still be seen, if not felt. Engine builder told me nothing and I didn’t see it at the time. Just reassemble and go or could it be something else? Before I finally took off the head the engine ran very well. Sprang very well, deliver calmly, CO at 2.5 to 3, have Lambdasonde installed around during operation No white smoke from exhaust, etc. Good power development. What is this? Who knows such a picture in the cylinder? What do the professionals mean among you? Thank you and greetings Jürgen