Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello together, Would have a question about fuel injection. And that is that the engine always needs load and speed for the correct injection quantity. If then the air mass meter ( load signal) breaks, the engine switches into the emergency run, they told me. But what do you need then such spare values as fuel temperature sensor e.g.? Would be nice if someone could explain the connections to me briefly. Thanks and nice weekend (:

Hello, my longtime companion Audi A6 C4 (petrols) I give so far a universal light running oil 10W/40. Next year an MB 230E W124 (petrols) is added and shortly for my wife an A-Class A160 W168 (petrols). With my A6 I have kept it so that I had to make the oil change in a free workshop – but have brought my oil with me. On the one hand, in workshops often very expensive oil is filled. In addition, you have no control over what a It’s probably that the same oil is filled into all kinds of vehicles. My SAE 10W/40 (according to the label: VW 500.00 / 505.00, MB 229.1 / 228.3) for the A6 goes out slowly and before I buy new ones would be great, of course, if I could find one that I could use both in the A-class of my wife and also in the 230E. Even I have no idea. I found that 504.00 seems to be the latest VW standard for petrol engines, which also includes older petrol standards. If you follow recommendations from online oil suppliers, you will be shown the most different oils for one and the same vehicle type after vehicle selection. Search results also promote the most different recommendations to day. So I am completely confused. Can someone please bring light into the dark here, if necessary with manufacturer links, which are too obvious I imagine that I then have 3 standards for the 3 vehicles which I can ask for with a regional oil liferant. Additional information: The A6 will probably remain the main vehicle with predominantly short distances at about 10TKM/year, usually parked in garage. The A-Class has to park outdoors even in winter, almost exclusively short distance (2Km to work, 10Km to shop) The 230E parked mainly in the garage, was and is little driven, in future with H-marks for walking trips. Now I’m curious. Thank you very much in advance.

Hello, I am Kalle and new here in the forum and hope you can help me. I have a Ducato 230 2.8 id.TD, year 2000 and when driving, as soon as the engine is warm a massive oil consumption from 1l to 10km. But from the beginning: I bought the camper from a workmate with engine damage (suddenly occurred oil loss as described above). From his workshop the cylinder head was already dismantled and tested by the repairer, as well as valve shaft seals replaced and head plan. Since all cylinder running surfaces looked great and the complete mocking tracks were still to be seen, I changed the piston rings + pleul bearings straight away and built everything together again. However, the oil consumption did not improve. The engine is completely dry from below and no smoke comes out of the exhaust. There is also no oil in the cowl water. As a result I changed the turbo and the crankshaft housing ventilation but also that did not bring any improvement. In the meantime, I burned 15 litres of oil with the car! It’s also warm and cold. In my opinion, all that comes to mind is that it burns the oil. Either over the piston rings or through a crack. But is it even possible that an engine runs normally with this oil consumption and does not emit smoke at the back? By now, I’m really helpless and would be grateful for every tip where d the oil could still go there. Thanks in advance Kalle

Hello! Maybe someone can tell me why my car is better when cooling outside temperature below 15 degrees+ it starts and then the colder the better the car is. Some part doesn’t work right there, because the car would always have to go the same, so if it’s warmer feels like clogged, no instant gas is accepted and if you approach a traffic light and go down from gas no motor-breams rolled there like uncoupled but automatic. Thanks in advance!!

Hi, turbocharged gasoline direct injection, with often less cylinder capacity than correspondingly powerful suction motors with suction tube injection, are meanwhile for some years apparently unstoppable on the advance. Since then there are also various unkencalls, which tell them a significantly lower durability compared to the previous suction cups. Since due to the increased use in everyday life some experiences must now exist, I would be interested, whether the one or other multi-driver now already calls his own, which exceeded the mileage of 300,000 km or at least got close to this number. It would be interesting in this context also whether during this time major repair work on the engine was necessary and where the weak points might lie (e.g. turbocharger, injection pump or injection nozzles). I look forward to your answers. Greeting Drahkke

Hi, my BWM is 13 years old. I had TÜV 2 years ago, so I was told that it did not come first because of carbon monoxide or carbon dioxide values. Then allegedly the spark plugs were changed and he got AU. He already had blue smoke in the exhaust gas 2 years ago when giving it out of idle. Now again TÜV is on the line, and I wonder how best to get through TÜV/AU. Best, without putting in a lot of money. Can I just (same) try it at the TÜV, and after the emergency after or better go back to the workshop from 2 years ago? Thank you for every info Dear greetings SL

Hello, I didn’t really know which forum I would like to put my question in, so please have a look, if it doesn’t fit 100 percent. I am a young woman and unfortunately I experience negative things again and again when I bring my car into the workshop, so I wanted to ask for your opinion, if I do wrong to the workshop if I want to ask a little more detail. Last week it was time again. The engine control light lit permanently yellow a uf, which caused me to drive into the workshop the next day and have the fault memory read out. Unfortunately, I no longer have the correct wording of the result in my ear, but it was something with flap position errors and something with negative pressure. An appointment was agreed and at noon the master then reported that the intake bridge had to be changed due to cokes. Cleaning was no longer possible. The car was then still 2 more days in the factory On the phone the master told me shortly before picking up that I had to refuel. There was not much fuel in the tank anymore, which surprised me very much, because the tank was still filled with 75% at the time of delivery in the workshop. This was due to installation and removal, as well as troubleshooting. Released petrol? Already then I asked myself why it was not refilled again? After all, the bill was so high enough to get angry. When I picked up the car, the mileage count was he resets and the tank just above reserve. Comparison of the odometer revealed a difference of about 170km. What do you say about it?

Hello to each other! Have an Audi A4 B8 Bj 2008 with a 2.0TFSI (CDNC) engine here. It brings the message “Check oil level” ONLY! with warm engine. When reading out it shows, “Oil pressure switch for low oil pressure”. There are already some topics that I have found about the search. But at least it runs out of a dirty oil sieve. But this was not the case with me. I have already exchanged both oil pressure switches, the oil level sensor and the oil pressure regulator. When it is cold, it has (with analog oil pressure manometer) in the stood approx. 2.0 bar and over 3500u/min approx. 4.0 bar. If the engine then reaches operating temperature, it sinks in idle to partly below 0.5 bar, although it still goes over 3500 u/min up to 4.0 bar. Is there any experience? Thank you very much!

Hello, the Lambda value is always optimal at 1 (or quite perfectly light under).First of all: Had a Lambda value of 1.005 (co% 0.002) with my vehicle 2010 at the AU Current with new Kats 2023 with Lambda 1.008/1.009 (co% 0.000) The old Kats had cracks (incidental detection). So immediately new pure. Lambda probes have run still the first from 2004 and a little less than 50t km Now: how does the engine control the Lambda value (by air and fuel) ? Have no air mass meter, since original inal with Alpha-N. Only suction tube pressure probes on the airbox. Does the MSG always try to come on Lambda 1,000 ? Why is it always slightly leaner mixture (whether then or now even more with new cats) ? Do not leak or I did not check correctly. But in 2010 everything was still original and had already Lambda 1,005 normal the MSG would have to control directly on Lambda 1. So fuel quantity until the mixture fits ? What if the retrofitted Kat „sch Is it possible that the Lambda value 1 could not be reached? Maybe someone can explain it to me. Thank you

Hi, a start-stop automatic, which is now installed in almost all new vehicles with internal combustion engine, demands starter and battery a lot more than in vehicles without this accessory. It is emphasized again and again that the starter system is technically designed for this additional load, but I would be interested to see what it looks like now in practice. How many kilometers has the start-stop automatic worked reliably in your vehicles, Since, of course, it also makes a difference whether the vehicle is used as a commuter car in long-distance traffic or as a short-distance city car, this information would also be interesting in this context.