Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hi, a start-stop automatic, which is now installed in almost all new vehicles with internal combustion engine, demands starter and battery a lot more than in vehicles without this accessory. It is emphasized again and again that the starter system is technically designed for this additional load, but I would be interested to see what it looks like now in practice. How many kilometers has the start-stop automatic worked reliably in your vehicles, Since, of course, it also makes a difference whether the vehicle is used as a commuter car in long-distance traffic or as a short-distance city car, this information would also be interesting in this context.

I hope I’m in the right subforum. I own a 4 kW diesel generator, which I bought used. Unfortunately, the starter battery has been defective since the purchase and so far we have always started the generator with a car battery and terminals. Works perfectly. I am also the owner of this LifePo4 battery: http://bit.ly/2u22vdI The peak discharge current is 300 A. So that we do not imme r want to drive the car forward, is my question, if you would recommend me to connect this battery to the generator? The generator only has to be started about every 2 weeks once, if too little solar power is generated via the solar modules. The battery is stored in the house and connected with a plug temporarily to the generator. What do you think? Could the battery break? Do I have to pay attention to the cable thickness? I thank you for your help!

Hello together, we have some trouble with our Touran (2nd Gen.). A little over 2 weeks ago suddenly the exhaust gas control lights up and since our VW man was only 200 meters away directly and let the error memory read out. After a few minutes then the Job’s message, control chain broken, must be exchanged. Luckily there is culant of VW and thus we had to pay only about 40% wage costs, at least still about 400 euros. I picked up the car then and last week Saturday, so we had to pay about 40% wage costs. 1.5 days after pickup, again the fault light (was on the highway), directly slowed down my ride and to the next parking lot, the VW hotline called and then was towed 1.5 hours later. Well, diagnosis now turbocharger defective, cost approx. 2000 Euro, no culant. Control chain and turbocharger have nothing to do with each other in my opinion, but is already strange that after successful repair and about 90 km the next engine part flies around my ears. Well, we nn it would have been a 200 Euro thing now, then ok, but 2000 Euro, but hello. Stupidly, the Touran is of course not with my local VW people but about 50 km away. The workshop that has diagnosed the turbocharger error would like to repair and take care of the previous repairs nothing, since not there made – I understand. The workshop here in the village also does not take care of anything and says can have been broken before. Well, since it would have been a 200 Euro thing now, then ok, but 2000 Euro, but hello. Do you have an idea what you can do? Let an expert look at whether my home VW man did something wrong? Need the car quickly back as soon as the holiday is over. It’s interesting that the workshop where the Touran is at the moment said that the camshaft (?) was lost by 30 degrees (?) and actually from 28 degrees the engine would have to be broken anyway. Unfortunately, I didn’t understand what he meant by that. I just said that the steering wheel Technical data: VW Touran 2. Gen. (11/2008) approx.82.000 km 140 hp with DSG Thank you for your help and tips. Best regards, Thomas

Hello, I’m thinking about making an intermediate stop at the accelerator pedal, where not too much fuel is injected, but already some power is, so the efficiency is best. Of course you can also give gas with a feeling, but the optimum is hardly met, a stop would be easiest. Such a kickdown of an automatic would be so, only not optimized in the sense. Is there any possible, somehow adjustable?

Moin together, let’s see if we can discuss here again on the same high technical level as I was used to …. So ….. No matter if I am satisfied with the 81kW and 200Nm or not – is a quantum leap to the 2.0l “Iron Gustav” with 80kW and 160Nm. But he did not have the clearly noticeable starting weakness …. …. but I like to do “self-tests” and have now found a “tuner” that offers 103kW and 220Nm with the TGIs of VW. Now, however, the question arises of how this should be done technically. So, lift charging pressure yes, but with a CNG SRE I lack the technical know-how in the depth. With the Otto DI this is quite “simple”. More charging pressure, higher filling level, more oxygen in the combustion chamber, more fuel, higher medium pressure, finished. But with the CNG SRE this looks different, because both intake air and fuel are already gas-shaped. . If the charging pressure is increased, more CNG would have to be inflated, but what is not possible, because the volume is already taken by the air. Or is this possible within certain limits? Or do I have a mistake in thinking? The “old” TSI TwinCharger was also available with 110kW. Thanks and greetings of the “Stevie”

Hello together, great first post, I know. I switched on the acceleration strip today. Since a truck was arriving at the same altitude, I stayed in the third gear for a very long time, untypically, to speed up and then, at approx. 80km/h (+/- 5km/h) from the third gear, accidentally switched to the second gear I am an old worrymaker and since this leaves me no rest before I have heard an assessment, I hope longingly for assessments! Is it to be expected that this will be found in the fault memory? Perhaps still important: I noticed no real difference in driving behaviour or noise on the BAB and on the following 10 KM country road and city immediately after that. However, as a layman, this is to be enjoyed with caution anyway, because then for the first time you pay careful attention to what the car does for noises or what it feels like in detail. here around a T-Roc 1.0l TSI, 81kw (110hp), 6-speed. Thank you for accepting me if necessary

Hello forum! Need your help, hope you can help me. It’s a kit-car, ie all freestyle, an engine a Lima and a lot of cable. The Lima brings in the stand 13,6-14,2V, which seemed funny to me already. when driving, with speed, comes short 13.6V and switches off immediately, the indicator light is off so the battery is not charged when driving, the battery is sucked out. I don’t know what to do now, I have 2 pieces(New) of the Lima and both have the same behavior. – the engine is connected to the frame (mass), the frame is the mass in the entire system – I measure passage on mass at the Lima, also the voltage at the Lima (potential is right) – the Lima currently gets a Led lamp (12V direct and 21W turn signal lamp did not work), which lights up when the engine is standing and goes off when the engine is running, but the other day it has lit up after start. I have ordered a ceramic pot to see, whether it is due to the resistance (but don’t believe it) – the Lima (larger + pole) are connected 3 things, supply car (100A fuse), servo and fan package (each with fuses) – supply car (cable from Lima to 100A fuse), then goes to a 250A distribution block, where the battery (100A fuse), as well as consumers (100A relay (key switch) for switching voltages via fuse distribution block), 100A fuse for PMU (power management unit – board voltage switch) A) I will finish everything from the + pole and measure what happens on the Lima B) completed the pathogen pin with 12V supply (or poti) and see what voltage is output in idle C) I have a Limatest device (pure load), I try that also thank you!

Hello, It is well known that a diesel is only worth with higher km numbers with longer distances. But what exactly does that mean? My driving profile: Every day about 20 km of city traffic (work back and forth) Every 6 to 7 weeks 1600 km of motorway In addition, occasional trips in the city and possible somewhat shorter car bahan rides possibly 100 to 200 km (but rather rare) Pi times thumb 20 000 km a year Is this “enough” for a diesel? LG

Hello dear community About 2 years ago I saw a video that proves that liquid ceramic protects and seals the surfaces of metal, it also ensures the engine and etc. smoother and lighter running etc. and immediately. This video shows and proves it for example:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-7K86w0-_k I went to Google for: Ceramic Oil, and Liqui Moly Cera Tec. On the (Liqui Moly) website, they promise exactly what I found in the first video g I decided to use Liqui Moly to this day… But recently, I found a video that Liqui Moly Cera Tec is questioning. It’s about testing Liqui Moly’s product against another one from Wagner with the same tests as in the first video, which came out:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwNicULSTsk Another video shows what happens to Liqui Moly Cera Tec when it stands for about 1 week:https://www.yo utube.com/watch?v=p18FTTOteJA Here’s a video that shows that 100% liquid ceramic metal really seals and protects:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLEQuocLpIc Don’t get me wrong, but at Liqui Moly it seems to me that they do this very much. I’ve watched a lot of videos in the last few years, and I see again and again that only the producers use 100% ceramic really work, all the other producers that have already been stretched with oil si Liqui Moly didn’t really have anything effective, it didn’t hurt, but I wouldn’t buy the product anymore, because it didn’t bring anything. The product of Wagner, Ceracoa Ceramict, or Orig. CERAMIC POWER LIQUID, on the other hand, are a little more expensive but not stretched for it. I don’t want to pour gasoline into the fire here, just want to learn more and gain experience, but I think that’s good evidence to see what Liqui Moly Cera Tec does. However, if I were to enjoy your experience, there are of course also the people who completely advise against it, but everyone has the right to discuss it here. I will definitely test the product of Wagner or Ceracoat very soon, because price/performance fits easily. Liqui Moly Cera Tec is therefore for me only history and eig. more appearance than to be!

Hello together, I have a special question and I’m pretty sure that I’m in the wrong forum, but I don’t know what else that could fit into. I’ve already pressed in about 4 wheel bearings in my life and it always went well. The next one is in June. My father squeezed one a few months ago and that became loose with time. Now my question is how is such a correct seat of a wheel bearing actually granted, so that it doesn’t get loose. s is “only” pressed in with a few tons without glue and without screws and holds the wheel even at 250km/h without it coming out again. How is this realized on a technical level. My BMW has a bolted one at the back and I understand everything, but a normal pressed one is simply pressed in with grease.