Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello, my question is perhaps a little more physical. How can an open cooling system in a car still work at higher altitudes? First of all, I would like to ask my question using the example of a Mitsubishi Colt with 1.3 L petrol suction engine and suction tube injection, as well as of course an open cooling system. The cooling system in the Colt is designed so that the thermostat starts to open from 83 °C, then it is completely open from 93 °C. The radiator fan is set so that it starts from 9 5 °C at level one and from 98 °C then runs at level 2 (maximum speed). This has been determined by Mitsubishi, so it is purely about the original thermal management. In normal driving mode, the cooling water temperatures are usually between 86 °C and 88 °C, in case of continuously switched on climate (cooler fan always runs at level 1 at less than 30 km/h). If the air is out and the fan does not run, the engine reaches a level at higher external temperatures. Chrnell his 93 °C and a little later also the 95 °C to let the fan run. So far for explanation. Now water has a boiling temperature of about 100 °C at a height of 0 °C, BUT how does the cooling system now behave at a higher height? What would happen if, for example, the Colt would run on the Großglockner with a height of well over 3 km? At 3 km altitude the boiling point is already at 90 °C, in addition the increased motor load due to the slope, as well as the incoming Loss of power due to the oxygen-poor air. What would happen there with an open cooling system? Is the balancing tank of an estimated 30 cm height sufficient to compensate for the overcooking? Can the water in the pipes bring boiling and air into the system? Would be great if someone could explain the process. It must be somehow ensured that a car with an open cooling system can still work at “larger” heights. Greeting pczwiebel

Hello to the specialists. I bought a Dmax from 2008 with the 3.0 diesel and 163 hp and automatic. I bought the part in January with a revised engine (total running power 154.000km, revision at 152000km – new piston, head, etc.); engine was overhauled in a specialist workshop. In driving mode the engine starts to roar from 2500 u/min – 120 km/h, then I accelerate further, he jerks and goes into the emergency run (motor control light burns). The car starts perfectly and runs smoothly up to the said 120 km/h. If the engine is turned up in the stand, there are no abnormalities. A new crankshaftsor, original from Isuzu I bought already, will be installed tomorrow. Now my screwdriver of tying meant that, despite the stored KW error, he does not believe in a defective sensor. He suspects, that the control times have not been set correctly or that the control chain/spanner has one off. Now my question, can that be at all? Should the engine not run unround/bad from the beginning at wrong control times, etc. and not only from 120km/h, or 2500 u/min? Thank you in advance, Greeting Carsten

Hello, I drive a Mitsubishi Lancer year 88 and would like to honor the ride a little bit more about the condition of my car.I thought of a , that a few analog display instruments would please me and want to retrofit some. I am always technick-awesome and do not shy away from a few work but do not want to take the whole engine apart. What possibilities are there about things like oil pressure, oil pumping , lambdawert (car has a lambda probe), and Battery status in analog intruments in the interior? How much does that cost and what honors did you do with it?

Good day, I own a Mercedes-Benz T1 209D (motor OM 617 2998 ccm) – an heirloom from my father’s estate. When I checked the oil level in the automatic transmission, I noticed that the oil level was about 10 cm above the markings and the colour of the oil was yellowish and not red, as I know it otherwise. So I left the oil off today. First of all I noticed that only about 4 liters came from the transmission, although according to data sheet 7 liters fit in and the oil level at the measurement So I first filled in only 4 liters (ATF IID MB 236.7) and switched the gears through every 5 seconds. After that, the oil level at the measuring rod was back at the running engine as before, i.e. about 10 cm above the highest mark. Deeply worried about what might be the cause of this condition, I am looking for an explanation here in the forum. I did something wrong when I left off, so that somewhere else 3 liters are “hidden” (or more, since the oil level above the mark (if the 4 liters I have filled in are above the mark)? Thank you very much!

Good day, my hydropumps have been clapping for some time. A change is simply not worth it, so I bought the additive from Liquid Moly on good luck. But I don’t know how to use it optimally. The instructions on the bottle have no use for me. As I read on the internet, the medium is mixed with the engine oil. The 300ml in the wrong range for 6l engine oil. May mean that my A4 (according to manufacturer 3.5l oil content) is about 120ml additive The oil level is almost on Max. I haven’t overturned anything for half a year. Furthermore, the full effect will only unfold after about 500km. Since I drive almost only short distances, I absolutely have to plan a long distance journey? Short distance means 2x 13km every day through the city. Please don’t take these fuzzy questions badly.

Hello all, I bought a very useful motor boat with fixed Mercedes 1.3 liter suction diesel for small money. Of course it flew out immediately and was, after careful design, replaced by an Audi 2.4 V6 from a slaughtered a4 b5 Avant switch. It fits super pure and has enough power without overloading the drive train. Weight is also right. We are just adjusting the cooling, engine bearing and transmission connection and flange are ready. ema: To take over the entire wire harness from the Audi and adapt it will probably be confusing and error-prone. Is there a standalone motor control unit? Or should I take a freely programmable one? Which would fit and where do I get the program? I don’t need more power than in the original condition, but it would be nice to disable AGR and thrust-off.

Hi, I have read through some forums about the beloved / hated topic Start/Stop and I have come across the following answer from someone: According to the person, the Start/Stop automatic should have disadvantages, but just as good the advantage to protect the engine, or better the cylinder walls from glazing. Now my question: What is the glazing of the cylinder walls? He described this as follows: If an engine runs long and often at idle speed due to the lack of This is how it was. I’ve never heard such a thing before and I haven’t found anything about it on the Internet. If that were the case that the walls would be glazed at some point, then millions of trucks, buses, etc. would have to carry engine damage from it, because they are also very crowded with running engines during their breaks. That’s just how good it could be for emergency vehicles that run the engine for hours when operating. So: W Is that true at all? Would I be happy about professional answers Greetings and beautiful Sundays

Hello motor talk members! Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with automatics. How can I speed up with automatics as quickly as possible? I was told that, unlike a manual transmission, instead of with the clutch, I should increase the speed with the brake pedal and at the same time give the gas to just walk off the brake. Is that true or is a normal kickdown enough to speed up with ESP switched off as soon as possible? MfG Mert

I’ve been trying for some time now for diesel additives. First I tried something with 2-stroke oil until I found out that the stuff can have quite unwanted side effects, up to the constipation of the injectors. So I switched to Liquid Moly Super Diesel additive and since then have about 5% less consumption, besides subjectively detectable changes, such as quiet running. Since my current vehicle is relatively new, I can’t report any long-term experiences yet. n, on the LM-side, there are interesting reports from professional users (transport-entrepreneurs, combined heat and power plant, transport companies). Among other things, it is reported that previously occurred problems e.g. with injectors since use of the additive belong to the past. Of the costs ok, because I got a 5l canister for 65 EUR and use the stuff 1:300 to 1:250 for every 2nd tank. Must be enough for approx. 2500 l. Even at konse rvatively calculated KS-ERsparnis remains a small profit with the additional effects wg. cleaning etc. Who has still had experience with diesel additives? Please no reports for 2-stroke oil, there are more than enough forums and I don’t want to pour anything into the tank of my highly bred diesel, which is not intended for use in diesel engines.

Hello, I’m a bit perplexed about which oil it is, and how it got there. Suppose it’s transmission oil, because it’s very clear and the place where I discovered it is at least the upper part of the transmission. But I’m not sure. The driving point is a Chevrolet Aveo from 2012 / petrol engine with 89000 KM and 86 HP. I think the engine is the same as the one from Opel Corsa D. At that point I had also discovered oil when buying a year ago. a free workshop stopped and asked what, and how that got there. “It seems to be a lot of gear oil,” was the info I got. So I cleaned the whole area at home and then watched. Everything remained dry until I had to see the same after a year. Do you have an idea ?