Category: External & paint care Forum

Good evening, I wash and vacuum the entire car every week (Saturday). I attached the pictures of the “program”. I always make the shampoo on it with the high pressure cleaner from the bottom to the top, let it work for 60 seconds(1x per month) Then from the bottom to the top with the high pressure cleaner Rinse down from the roof or until the whole soap and everything is gone After that paint conserve 1x quickly (every 2 weeks) and at the end neatly shine from the roof down. blem: Somehow it is quite wet, or not at all dry or shiny. When I go home, the car is still dirty, stained, etc… Should I dry it with a leather cloth after washing? (you would need a huge part, possibly several ^^) Otherwise I have heard an “automatic” washing system should be harmful, because of the scratches etc. I have never done before. I could also wash by hand, think that is probably the best thing, that can be done jedo A little too elaborate every week ^^ What can you do and what is that?

Hello together, Since last week Tuesday I call an Audi A3, year 2018 in Mythschwarz my own. My previous polo until recently I creaked in the washbox and then wiped roughly dry, which at first glance also brought relatively good results to light – but with the new car you want to increase of course. Already at the end of the polo run I looked at some YouTube videos and then from Koch Chemie the Gs, the Gsf as well as the BMP and an FM10, I also found a tolerating washbox. My previous steps were: 1. Foaming with the active foam (Gs and Gsf mixture according to bottle) 2. Rinse 3. Two bucket laundry with microfiber washing glove and vieeel water, working from top to bottom and washing the glove after each part. 4. Rinse with osmosis water 5. Drying with microfiber cloth Now it is well known that black is quite sensitive, how can I prevent me from getting Is this where you’re scratching?

Dear detailing friends, I’m still a beginner and would like to know how long I have to wait for a new vehicle until I can seal the paint with ceramic or cook chemistry Nano 1K?! (with a conditioner) I’m not primarily concerned with the sealing but with polishing before. Don’t you have to “harden” the paint for a few weeks before you can reach it with the polishing machine? … or can I, for example, pick up the car from the factory this week and become a conditioner for next week. ingen?! Thank you very much in advance for your answers. LG Alex PS. Lack is “Digitalweiss” metallic from Mercedes

Hello guys, again a newcomer here. I’ve been reading into the topic for several days, but I still have some inconsistencies. I’ll pick up my new car soon (white paint) and would like to take care of it as well as possible. I’m a lantern parker and unfortunately I don’t have access to a garage. Which seals can you recommend that would be in question for me? Something with a short exhaust time I accept? I don’t own a polishing machine either. where necessary, so that it is sufficient for a reasonable sealing? Otherwise, here is my previous shopping list: https://www.amazon.de/hz/wishlist/ls/2ZFVSP7XKZFX?ref_=wl_share Greeting

Greetings! I drive an A-Class (W169, A180 CDI, EZ: 2007) with more than 150,000 km on the speedometer. At the same time I am commuter with 3,000 to 5,000 km a month, an estimated 80% of it on the highway. Up to at least 200,000 I want to drive the good thing, at least 250,000 separate me (if it comes to that). At the moment I drive once a week into the washing machine, because I value cleanliness – even if the car is relatively old and I am only the third owner: I love my A-Class Mr. Wa sh (there it goes weekly) now offers a flat rate, with which I can have the car washed inside and outside for 100 € for three months as often as I want. Since I would save 20 € for the weekly outdoor laundry and receive an interior cleaning almost free of charge, I would like to make use of the offer.My question: Can I overdo it as a commuter with such average mileage and especially in this weather with the laundry? Would three to four times a week at any time in a way harmful to the car? In other articles I was written here about new cars or newer cars.. I got my own with individual scratches and dents as well as the above km on the tacho (about three months ago), which is why I can’t personally see any disadvantage in it (the micro scrapers I will probably be able to handle). Do I overlook something? Should I leave it with flatrate at once a week?

Good morning engine talk community, I noticed now that I have holograms in my E-Class in the paint. I treated the car with an anti-hologram polish two weeks ago (Würth AntiSchleier Politur Profi) because I already had a few holograms in the paint. Here is the procedure when polishing: 1. Car washed 2. Passage with fine sandpaste and machine (3M fine sandpaste) 3. Polished with microfibre cloth 4. Passage with anti-sleep polish and machine (Würth) 5. Polished with microfibre cloth 6. Treated with 3M pink wax To the machine, I know it is not a good machine but I always thought the enough for my purposes.http://cgi.ebay.de/…/200477902535?… Then I had only taken two microfibre cloths for steps 1-6. Unfortunately, I don’t know what I did wrong, so maybe you can give me a little guide on how to remove these ugly holograms. Can I continue working with the products or better Have here some pictures of my car: I thank you already in advance greeting

Hi! I’m going to go to the wash road for the first time with my new car. I’ve read a few articles here and wanted to do it as follows: – Basic washing program – Cook Quick Shine with the well-known MF cloths (less is here more, so you don’t have to wipe?) Use an unused side of the MF cloths per vehicle surface here – The same for the rims Now I have the question about the windscreen/window in general. I have read that The Quick Shine was advised to use here as well. Is this a good idea? What about wash lanes (Mr Wash) that RainX offer. Should I not do this if I use Quick Shine in principle? Is this double-bobbled, can I do something wrong here? Thank you!!

Hello I have a Mercedes GLA 200 in cavasinth blue. So far I have not noticed a flight rust (only small white points, which is probably not a flight rust). On this dark varnish flight rust is probably quite difficult to recognize. What does flight rust look like on dark varnish or how do you recognize it? If there is a flight rust, then Sonax flight rust remover is ok or maybe still Koch Chemie Koch Chemie ReactiveRustRemover? Are a microfiber cloth or Rei or does it need, for example, a Sonax Clay ball?

Moin! Like most of us here, it has caught us and our cars full: A layer of Sahara dust like never before lies on everything that was outside the last few days. Together with me the weak rain the stuff runs together and forms an almost sound-like mass in all cracks and processes. Therefore my question to the nursing experts: How does it move to the Sahara dust? I don’t want the broth to collect in the processes and cracks and get hard there and possibly still the E I would also like to avoid scratches on the paint. Water-saving washing systems are therefore not my first choice.

I bought a new scooter. Ne Yamaha X-Max300 in Matt grey. On this is all matt, except the discs and the rims. Basically everything is made of plastic, which is one part in “black” unpainted, the other parts in dark grey metallic matt lacquered. (maybe they are also foiled, I don’t know) With the old scooter the painted parts were shiny, so easy, sealing on top and on the “nature” plastic parts qtechniq C4. (the C4 makes a little bit of shine, al so with all Matt this will be a problem… Trying is practically not, never goes down) But what do I do best with the new one? Great would be a product for all matte surfaces on the scooter. Oh yes, the question “what should be achieved” – maximum protection (which may also have long service life) as little shine as possible and of course in the front area the insect removal should be simplified (this is the main point in itself)