Category: Fahrzeugpflege Forum

Moin, I’m going to take the template to help me. But it’s mainly about polishing/processing and whether it’s useful by hand or by itself or not. Preferably it’s also about getting rid of the “washing equipment traces” by the previous owners. – Manufacturer ? Audi A6 4B – Type ? Limosine – Color VulcanBlack – Metallic (j/n) ? my yes – Age ? 14 years – Care history in a few words, like e.g. „Until now approx. every 3 weeks washing system, 1x a year hand polish and wax-possessing jetz t the car for 1 year…. ca 1x per month SB/ hand wash kombi – Description Condition, like e.g. “Many washing machine strips, in front insects burned, about 3cm long scratches in bonnet, wheel runs made of plastic bitten off several stone strokes front, insects “spotting”, washing machine strips/tracks, Audi chrome rings started, – if possible targeted photo(s) of defect(s) to be removed – previously used polish/lacquer cleaner ? none – previously used wax/sealing ? no – budget: What do you want to invest maximum for the upcoming action on care expenditure (abs. pain limit) ? good question it should be in the relationship to “let it stand” , if for example only 50€ difference are worth the work effort not… – Preparing: Does a professional varnish preparation (approx. 120-180EUR) come into question ? possibly there I wanted to inform myself on the spot still what the cost. But prefer to do it yourself first… – Will the purchase of a polishing machine (plug) come can!) with corresponding professional means in question (several hundred EUR, but lasts several years if necessary) ? no – Do you regularly drive through a washing machine and continue to do so, or does hand wash come into question ? SB/hand wash – How often per year are you ready to polish / grow ? flat rate would I say 1x to summer – What should be achieved (1-5) ? 1) Almost perfect optics near delivery condition with focus on ‘extreme shine’ becomes difficult with the car old but is at hand Reben. 2) Almost perfect paint protection near delivery condition with focus on ‘extreme and long protection’ what would that include? Note: 1+2 ‘courses’ in each other, do not completely exclude. Please make a choice. 3) A constant, solid well-kept impression and value preservation, minor defects such as a little stonefall and washing system straps are acceptable stonefalls can/must remain.. Washing systems I want to trace away with friendly greetings

Hello guys, I had some dried up spots of bird droppings on my black polo and I didn’t get them off with water and soap. Idiotically, I tried it with such an eraser sponge, it worked too, but apparently the paint layer was also removed from it. The paint has become quite dull at the treated places. Looks really unsightly and it is also very eye-catching. Does anyone have an idea how to fix this? Mr President, ladies and gentlemen, I would like to thank you for all the help you have given me.

Hello together, after which I have increased in the past months a quite neat package of preparation and care products for the outdoor area, I now still lack a good interior cleaner for the dashboard and other “soft” plastic parts in the interior. Unfortunately, the FAQ could not help me any more… So far I have used an interior cleaner from a BMW care range … I absolutely wanted to have the practical BMW bag in the BMW world then, which in it A small amount (about 10ml) of the internal cleaner was simply distributed into a small bucket of 3-4 liters of warm water and then used for cleaning using a microfiber cloth. The result was ok, but not overwhelming. The dashboard looked clean, but somehow also “blossom”. I am looking for a cleaner that was similar to the above. It must not leave a shiny, spherical shine. Do you have any idea which product could fit? Does anyone have experience with the Chemical Guy’s “Inner Clean”? Greeting R-Liner

Hello together, has someone here gained experience with Polish&Wax 2 Nano Pro?? I know that the Sonax products have not called the best for the “care professionals”. But I had the stuff “unfortunately” turned on by an ATU seller and only later in various forums read that you can forget the Sonax products if you expect a useful result! My question: Can I still use the product in between times or should I put it in the corner and take another product and if yes which one for my lacquer condition (except for a 6 cm shramm fender, about 4 cm shramm bonnet both up to prime so don’t think polishable and few 3-4 stone strokes naturally quite ok)? see picture…. Greeting Marcel

Tach together, a picture says more than a thousand words as we know it and if the pictures can still run then we don’t need to write anything here soon. I came up with the idea whether the FAQ should not be supplemented with links to instructive videos. It should be videos that clearly explain individual aspects of car maintenance – so no fun videos. The videos should be directed explicitly to beginners and therefore explain the basics. A also almost complete listing all r Web videos cannot be the goal, so the list should be manageable at the end. In this thread I would like to introduce potentially in question videos and discuss their inclusion in the FAQ. If there is greater unity I will then take the stuff into the FAQ. I start immediately. The following two videos originate from a parallel universe, but are freely available on YouTube. My question during the moderation showed no concern about a link in this Foru m.Polishing with the eccentric polishing machine Part 1 (German)Polishing with the eccentric polishing machine Part 2 (German)Paint cleaningKnete Part 1 (English)Paint cleaningKnete Part 2 (English) This should only be a few videos, as I imagine for the FAQ. I would like comments and also further video links.

Hello guys, we’re going to start spring cleaning again soon. Our car is now 5 months old with white paint and was protected with the Collonite 476s before the beginning of winter now I wanted to ask if the following procedure is ok for spring cleaning: 1. Washing with the Chemical Guys GLOSSWORKZ 2. Polishing with Chemical Guys Pro-Polish / P40 Polish 3. Paint preparation with Dodo Juice Lime Prime 4. Wax application with the Collonite 476s I think I can save myself 🙂 Microfibre cloths and Pads are available enough. Is something wrong or has anyone had bad experiences with these combinations? Greetings Marcus

Hi, I bought a Vectra A V6. Since you can’t really throw money around as a student, my father has repainted the badly scratched and several times wall-tested original Opel Sport spoiler with the small SATA. The result is great for a garagehobby painting, but unfortunately some parts have got light orange skin. To get these parts nice smooth I planned: -Nasschiffiff 1000/2000/3000 -Sonax paint cleaner by hand -Sonax Nanoversiegung Elung, apply with a Bosch Profi eccentric grinder with adjustable speed and medium-hard foam attachments. Unfortunately, the grinder does not offer me forced rotation, since it is a professional device, I have not yet managed to make it stop. Soo, I would like to hear a few honest opinions (Zimperlichkeit is not desired, I want to learn something here and not be cuddled) about my project.

A beautiful day today, with us the sun was shining like in midsummer…. The woman was professionally sent to the end of the world, FoFine took place during the visit at 2 neighboring parking spaces. In the afternoon came the shock: FoFine has SWIRLS in the bright sun! Everywhere! The woman has been pondering for 4 hours at the question: Where?! Recently she was treated with Lime Prime (but I did not check the results with a flashlight), she is of course only by hand, formerly with Meguiars Ultimate Wash Mitt, now with Yeti Fist, washed, dried with Orange Drying Towel, within 3 months four times waxed, MFT`s I will not list now, all come from the Oberliga…. Therefore the question: Where do the Swirls come from??? (A washing machine has seen them only from the outside and very briefly so that they do not get traumatized.) I mean the question really serious!

Did anyone happen to look at Galileo yesterday? There was a relatively unkempt Golf 2 with some bumps, scratches and dents estimated by an expert. The car was very dirty inside and outside and had a bad general picture. The value of the car with approx. 200,000KM was estimated at 300€. I don’t know anymore. Then the car was professionally reworked. Correctly polished, bumps, dents and parking damage repaired. Interior cleaned, seats repaired(B The cost of this was 400€ After that the car was estimated again by the same expert. See there: 1100 Euro 1100-400-300 gives 400€ plus. Apparently the preparation was the best thing that could happen. A few weeks ago the same experiment with AMS. Old car with a lot of KM on the clock can be estimated with the value X After that everything was repaired as with the Golf II etc. The re-examination of the car A value increase of 0€ 0€ because it was the same car. The preparation of the car was not recognized as an increase in value by a used car seller, because it was the same car as before. In private sales it brought a little more money. Now one can ask oneself the question to what extent the processing really does something. Above all, I wonder whether the expert at Galileo really carried out an objective vehicle evaluation. Can such an increase in value be expected?

Moin, moin, I’m still quite a beginner and after weeks of reading I decided to do something good with DJ Lime Prime lite and Collinite 476s on the weekend of my new Sharan (4 weeks old, unfortunately 3,800 km). Shopping list was quickly created thanks to your help and commissioned by Lupus. Thanks for all the tips. Now everything is there and I’m curious if my MFT’s 500 will feel the same way, as reported elsewhere.My question: After the Wochend-Pfle In the future, I will handwash with DODO BTBM Shampoo and celebrate a gloss & smooth orgy with CG Detailer P 40. Now I have read variously in your articles, that the P 40 can be diluted 1:1, without affecting the effect.As I save work where I can, the question has pressed itself, whether I can then spray the detailer straight onto the still wet car and distribute / remove with MFT (Lupus 600). Or rather to dry off (MEG Water Magnet Drying Tow) d) and then apply (diluted with distilled water) P 40??? How do you do that??? Note: As the last wash I spray the car with the lance (from respectful distance) with such strip-free draining water (whatever that is). So there is only little residual water on the paint, after treatment with Collinite anyway!