Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello My aged mother now separates from her car and I have the honour that it will soon be in my possession. When I visited her, however, I had to find out on a test drive that the engine runs quite loud. Although it may not be unusual for a 14-year-old petrolman, but he has rather ratted. The reason was quickly found: too little oil. Of course I paid attention to proper measurement, i.e. level underground, about 20 minutes of standstill. Oil level was at the lower end of the measuring rod, i.e. already under the grooved surface, within which it should normally move. A look at the service book revealed that the last workshop visit took place before 8,000 km. Whether there was an oil change was carried out, she did not know and also in the service book was not more precisely described what was done. I nevertheless assume from careful mechanics, who fill the chance to overteured engine oil and on the To be able to calculate, not to miss and conclude that the oil level was still in order at that time. What do you think – should I have concerns

Hello, as can be seen from the title, I wonder which data count for a powerful car. Is it the torque, or the acceleration of 0-100 ? Or is there any other information that is important for this? I have already compared oilfers and I noticed that cars that have a higher torque but are worse in the acceleration of 0-100 like cars with a lower rotational motion. That’s why I’m not sure which kind of cars have a higher torque. In the KLartext: Which statement says how strongly it expresses one in the “seat” when accelerating? Greetings

Hey, there’s no topic where 100% of this fits in, hope that doesn’t bother anyone! I need a few tips / advice / experiences I’m a car master and still at the Bundeswehr, but the end soon and I have the opportunity to train… the question is now how and what… From the pure basic idea it would appeal to me to be a master in the customer area later (Kfz acceptance, customer service, KVA’s, invoices…..) Well, for that I fulfill the Vorr But I don’t want to let go of my training time and the money that is available to me.So what now… Studying? this opens up other possibilities for me of course…. is the most suitable vehicle technology (as Uni Osnabrück is near), what possibilities do I have with successful studies? Is a coming into the profession of a service master dami t lighter? am I too overqualified to do so? if so what other possibilities do I have? In Dortmund the technician is offered in the car trade… but will unfortunately be difficult due to the distance (110KM) … (woman, child….) What do you mean? That I have to decide myself is clear how above written tips ect…. Thank you

Hello, I have a little question of understanding that I couldn’t solve with any book or Wiki Google entry: The crankshaft runs into the gearbox, gears translate the movement and the cardan shaft, which leads out the rear, runs at a different speed. Please correct me if the part is not correct. But how does the gearbox now adjust the engine speed, as you always read it? About the crankshaft? But it is driven by the engine and not vice versa? D Anke yourselves!

Hello, I don’t know if I’m right here in this forum with my question but where exactly can I buy a new screw for the camshaft wheel of an Opel Corsa B 1.4 60 hp? I’ve already looked everywhere and found nowhere a new screw for the camshaft wheel. I have to change the thermostat on Saturday and this is unfortunately exactly behind the cover, which I can only get off when I unscrew the camshaft wheel. As far as I know, you have to use a new screw n but I don’t know where to buy a new spare screw. I’m grateful for any help

Hello together, I have to change the air condenser+dryer on my A3 in the next few days because of leaks. The system was evacuated in the workshop, then compressed air was filled in to find the leak. Now I have the following problem: I could get the air conditioning from a friend (legally) free of charge after the repair outside the workshop, but only the refrigerant and not the oil. How can I refill it myself? d Repair is lost oil, due to the repair probably so 20%. But how much before was lost during evacuation approx.? Can I just tip the new oil before the installation into the capacitor? Or is there a filling screw or similar somewhere on the system? Do it right (before filling the oil with the refrigerant mix) unfortunately does not work, and in the workshop I do not want to get the KM free of charge. Thanks for any help!

Moin dear municipality, at the time of my last diesel (330D, driven until 2009) it was usual to give 250ml of “meat-in” two-stroke oil to each tank filling. The advantage was a lubrication of injectors and other fuel-side components. In addition, the engine should remain cleaner. The oil mixed with the diesel and no longer demixed, so it has always been used evenly with the diesel. The running culture was noticeably better, the mot or sounded healthier… Actually, I would like to handle this again with my current one, but I am uncertain about the slightly higher combustion temperatures and the use of AdBlue today. The current car has the Euronorm 6 in conjunction with an AdBlue tank, which is freely accessible. Is there someone here deeper in the matter and can tell me if there is still an advantage to hope for here, or do I rather destroy everything in connection with the new exhaust technology? Thanks from the Spiesel

Hello have filled in my Audi a4 2.0TDI in the eile by mistake antifreeze in the coolant. is that bad or harmful? Greetings steffi and thank you for your help

My cousin torments me on time for the weekend with a technical question, which I unfortunately cannot answer 100% – and honestly also does not want to test for him! The following: My cousin (17 – hach ja! – be so young again ) would like to know what happens when you simply switch off the engine of a car (manual switching drive) – by means of ignition key during the journey (e.g. at a speed of 50km/h). My answer to f the question: The vehicle will roll out without gear/on empty, the brake power amplifier will no longer work (pronounce the service brake is only to be used for max. 1 “reasonable”/light supplementary braking, since the brake pedal will be ‘hard’ without amplifier after 4-5x) and the servo support is logically no longer available. If you pull the key, the steering wheel lock will rest if necessary. t! So far, so good! However, he is not quite satisfied with the answer. What happens now in the coupled state? How does the vehicle behave or reacts? Maybe someone can bring some light into the dark Thanks, a nice 3rd Advent weekend, Focus-Freak88

Dear forum members, a few months ago I bought a 10-year-old Yaris with 100,000 KM on the hump. Now the next inspection is coming soon. After some cost estimates I almost fell off the chair. Therefore my question: Is an inspection really necessary? I get oil change at my free workshop for 30 Euro (+ about 25 for the oil brought with me). I change spark plugs, air filter, interior filter according to the specified manufacturer interval itself. As well as other predetermined maintenance work, the brake fluid change could be carried out individually in a workshop. Furthermore, I always have the rather favorable winter or spring checks (usually around 15 euros) carried out with my cars during the tyre change. Here, the braking system, chassis, liquids, battery, lighting and V-belts are checked. Also, every two years the main examination is added. Are there really still such in-depth and meaningful visual checks, which would justify the high financial costs for such an old car in proportion? I would be very pleased about experiences and hints. Thank you very much!