Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello! With a vehicle (not mine), the coolant temperature indicator, as far as I know, has 6 LEDs. If the engine is in a warm state, normally constant 3 LEDs light up. For some time, probably at lower outside temperatures dropped off and the display from three to two LEDs. At some point, it rose again to three LEDs. I therefore suspected a defective thermostat. Now, among other things, the cooler came new, new thermostat and new coolant temperature sensor. The new thermostat is the same as the previous model and is definitely the right one – the cooling system has been properly ventilated – No oil in the cooling water and no cooling water in the oil, no smear on the oil cover – No heat loss on the oil cover – No heat loss, no heat loss, no heat loss, no heat loss. rising bubbles in the cooling water with open balancing tank and running engine – heating gets warm – no errors in the fault memory – fluctuating cooling water temperature is also visible when reading the data with a diagnostic plug during the ride Do you have a guess what the cause might be? Is it just the outside temperatures? Simply ignore? It is by the way a Citroen C3 from 2003 with a 1.4l machine (TU3JP).Thank you for your assessments.

Hi all, I recently drove a BMW 5 with ACC. In this case, you can switch off the ACC with longer pressure on the distance adjustment keys and drive with normal cruise control. I’m looking for another brand that can do that – or is it a BMW Privilieg? As far as I know, no VAG vehicle can do that and also the Daimler can’t … At Ford you can set it in the menu, but you can’t switch it as comfortably as at BMW … soon new motorized greetings Touri

Greetings, since my knowledge of Krummer is rudimentary, I prefer to ask the question publicly. Question: Which lock screws / nut and from which material helps, that they do not resolve again when mounting trouser tube & Krummer with metal seal 🙂 The facts are simple: Trouser tube to Krummer was screwed together for time reasons (AU appointment the next morning) with common 8.8 lock screws M8x40 and common nuts M8 and it also held about 50km. Then it held. As wonderful as the snoring sound may be, I would like to have it fixed properly. I am aware that crackers and trouser tubes are getting hot, an expansion and a pull-up is taking place when cooled down. How is this compensated in the original condition with standing bolts? Are these only the enclosed discs and copper nuts? Since we have drilled out the 3 torn stand bolts and replaced with lock screws, I hope to find a screw solution, What’s your advice?

With regard to measuring spindles as on the right side of the picture, the online trade (everywhere where such a spindle can still be found) thinks it is for measuring the frost protection in the cooling circuit. Just one copy I have ready and recently (last 2 days) used it for testing the frost protection in a car where G48 / BMW LC87 is used. Measurement shows protection from frost lower than 40 degrees – below scale. That is what raises questions. In November BMW-Werkstatt in the cooling system has the Frostschu The final 3 refills were made with Glysantin G48. Something is not right with measurement, only.. what could it be? Fear of using the car now, the concentration should be really so high. Fzg-total history does not include a renewal of the cooling fluids. tz measured to level 35 degrees. Just before the workshop appointment the liquid had to be refilled, Dest.-water was used, up to 250 mL. After the workshop appointment it needed to refill again, a total of 2 to 3 times. All that is known in this respect to the owner, at the same time user, are the above mentioned refills. Incidentally, measuring the frost protection with the other spindle on the enclosed image has brought about approximately the same results.

What do you think of this?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSi6J-QK1lw Today, the shock absorber systems in many vehicles consist of front and rear shock absorbers, which are attached to the underside of the vehicle. Thus, the developers were able to install the BOSE® suspension system with little adjustment effort into existing vehicles. And this also means that it is possible to use the BOSE® suspension system in existing vehicle concepts instead of conventional shock absorbers. front modules of the BOSE® Suspension System use a modified McPherson suspension leg and the rear modules a double transverse handlebar to hang the linear electromagnetic motor between body and wheel. Rotating rod springs take on the static weight of the vehicle. In addition, the BOSE® Suspension System uses a vibration damper on each wheel to keep contact with the road. Unlike conventional shock absorbers that pass vibrations to the body u and thus reduce the comfort, the vibration damper is not directly connected to the body and thus ensures maximum passenger comfort.

The days I wanted to finally put my tweeters in Holubal and align them decently, as they are currently lying loosely on the dashboard. Now, of course, the question arises; how do I fix them so that they can hold them, but if necessary they can be removed without residue? The surface in my A3 8L is also relatively rough, with “rills”. Can take a photo tomorrow. That is a liquid glue would put itself in the cracks. I think of something like Powe rstrips or real silicone. Secondly, you should be able to remove eig. on one piece. Do you have better ideas?

Hello, how much volts should a new battery have at least? I ask because I bought a new starter battery yesterday, because my previous one was so weak that after about 30 minutes of heating the cars didn’t want to start any more. The old one was about 5 years old. I bought a 75Ah now and had my multimeter this morning. Had driven for a while yesterday and then switched off overnight. 12,4 volts. Shouldn’t it be anymore? O I’m wrong about him?

Moin, the old windscreen wipers on my vehicle (were already at the time of purchase) were over, so new ones had to come. Bosch were on it, so it should be Bosch again, why not? For my Astra H the AeroTwin, so bought and mounted fit. On the first rain ride I noticed that the windscreen wipers always squeaked during the change of direction. Not nice, but also not completely bad. On the advice of a friend I once had windshield wiper and Sche ibe cleaned, first they squeaked, which then went away after a few minutes. So I then had a week or a little longer complete rest in the rain and was happy. Then the car stood 3 days and suddenly the windshield wipers squeak like hell. So disc cleaned with alcohol, windscreen wiper dismantled and under running water cleaned neatly. Problem was solved, for a rain ride. The next day (today) the windshield wipers squeak louder than ever before, not only at Change of direction, but over the whole movement bandwidth; terrible. Tip from the Internet: thoroughly free the disc with silicone remover from fat, wake and other residues, unfortunately no success. What can I do? With every other driver the windscreen wiper seems to work silently and I have to beat myself with such a crap, I get aggressive with every disc wiper movement and little bit more. That can’t be. Of course, they were not used dry or on ice on the disc or anything else. I despair!

I don’t find anything on this subject, so I ask the professionals here for their opinion. The facts play with a common Varta Silver Dynamic 77Ah 780A in a vehicle year 2000, 1.9L diesel with 120A alternator without electronic snaps like start/stop etc. My knowledge is: -> Rest current if over 12.5V … all good -> Charging current if over 13.5V … all good if I now hold my measuring device at the battery poles with running motor, is indicated for 1sec 13,49V and then immediately 12,79V (without consumer). If I turn on the consumers like light, rear window heating, heating etc., the display falls to 11,77V. That is, every time I go with the measuring ends new to the poles, there is always the 13,49 or sometimes 13,5 or 13,45V for 1 sec and then it falls to the 11 or 12V. What is it? Measuring device? Battery? alternator (which has a brand new controller installed). I miss this 13 coma still something volt permanently, especially if all the vehicles are equipped with a new control unit. the measurement falls to below 12V.

Hello all, I have been thinking about the upcoming low temperatures, especially in Germany, where it can go well below -11 degrees Celsius. I know that the freezing point of AdBlue is -11 degrees. This raises the question, what effect this has on the driving readiness of a vehicle, if the AdBlue is completely frozen. Is there anyone here who has had experience with it? Can the engine still start with frozen AdBlue at all o there are problems with frozen/broken AdBlue lines?