Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I would like to ask whether the warranty claim can be asserted in the case of the engine damage caused by the spongy fuel if unintentionally there is. This may be the case, for example, that one makes a long journey to Ural with one’s own car and on the way black sheep is caught at the petrol stations and is fed with false fuel. And if there is no official warranty claim, how can the seller (dealer) prove that the caused engine I can only imagine that all this can only be verified by a laboratory expert, which is very complex. I also imagine that the vehicle will always be refuelled with biodiesel until the engine gives up its mind.

Hi people I hope you can help me !!!I bought a bmw 525d bj 2001 with 156.000 km which I liked super. I noticed on the way home on the highway that the car when accelerating slightly whistled during the test drive I heard nothing. I try to describe it exactly to you : Before he whistled slightly and it is somehow always bit louder In, stand gas comes the noise only shortly when I let go of the gas when giving gas in the stand gas you can hardly hear it. But if I don’t hear the noise in which way gas is given, in the lower range you can hear it but easily When speeding up the right one hears it clearly also in the open window you hear it loss of power he doesn’t have, he even pulls super well and continuously. can it be the turbo that goes slow? But why do you hear the noise even in the lower range? Can it damage the particle filter too??

Hello first of all! I have a question: I work in a large company. We have a lot of vehicles right. Now I have to take care of a system for the vehicle location. So you should always be able to monitor where the vehicles are located. I have found http://www.infleet.eu/. Have you already had experience with this system? And if so… which ones? Thank you very much…

Hello, I noticed this link a few years ago and since then I don’t understand why it didn’t hit Blitz like this.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVIwropRMME A car that only drives with air pressure and thus does not produce a Co2 and has less wear and tear, with a tank you get as I understand 200-400Km and I assume that a new filling should not last more than 10min. Is this the story with the money maker’s pond again? Will de r The state and the car industry do not want us to buy long-lasting cheap cars? or what do you think? I would also like to know: How much could a diesel or petrol engine be converted to air pressure? The Tüv would certainly make problme but why?

Hi guys, I’m new here in the forum. I hope this is the right topic. It’s about the following: I have a Pontiac Firebird Bj. 1989 (3rd gene). The vehicle has a license plate cut-out of 34cm width at the rear. I was on the vehicle authority for re-registration. There I got a license plate for the rear with the size 320x200mm (the vehicle authority did not let me talk about smaller license plate). However, I can’t find a holder for the back of the vehicle online. If yes, where can I buy them? I have seen mounts for 340x200mm, would they fit? So the license plate holds with it and fits it into the recess on the vehicle? In the worst case I can screw the license plate directly to the rear bumper again, but I wanted to make it “ordinary”. Thank you very much for your help! Greeting, Dr. Piti

Hello to the forum, I’m relative layman and have a problem with a stacker where the battery is not charged. I changed the alternator, the control (is external) and the battery. Unfortunately, the battery light is still lit and the battery is not charged either. The alternator and the controller are equal to the old parts and the occupation of the cables (at least the color coding) the plug is the same. If someone has a tip as I can find the error or w Since a forklift can unfortunately not simply be driven into the workshop I would be happy about every tip. Would it be possible, for example, that the polarity on the controller is wrong? Or can a simple “cable break” be the cause. Since the forklift is already older, it can not be due to any “electronics” – since none is available. I am happy about a feedback.

Dear Forum, I’m having quite a panic because I’m having a bad luck today: I’m driving an Audi A1 TDI (Common-Rail – 95 HP) and by accident (tank was filled in reserve i.e. about 5 liters of diesel) super fueled. After 1.39 l (i.e. actually “immediately” I realized my bad luck and contacted the Audi serviceline. There I was connected to an Audi technician who said “Refuel diesel and drive, as nothing should happen with such a small amount of it. So about 40 liters of diesel fuelled and followed this advice – which is pretty much the impulse for the whole dilemma. On the way to the office I read that even the smallest quantities are sufficient for modern diesel engines – at the latest I panicked – and therefore drove to a VW/Audi/Skoda workshop. The service acceptance there also meant “no problem – now you have a “winter diesel” … Well, so I “calmly” drive again to the office, and after i ntensivem Googlen I come back to the realization: In the Worstcase everything is “hinnig” (as we say in Austria) – i.e. injectors, pipes, pump… Well – panic level rises again – so I call my dealer, where I leased the item – the technician also said “with such a small amount there should be nothing…”. But now I am still not quite reassured: Is it really so that with such a small amount everything is OK (acceptance: I am now refueling imme r busy on after every ride..) or should I now set any actions? I am simply irritated by the advice of Audi to continue driving – would they have said “pump out!” I would have done so immediately! Please for urgent help! Thank you

Hi, since my BMW e36 BJ 2003/11 is almost at the end of the Baterie after 1 month of service life and with new lead battery, I would like to install a switch (interruption of the Minus Pole). Which type would you recommend Schlater? Pay attention to wa sist? Is mInus the better choice? Quote: If you install a main switch, you switch the entire vehicle current over it. So the switch has to carry the entire load. A small resistance of 20mOhm, which can form quite quickly if the switch is open for a longer time, can fry up to 3 volts at the start. So the car would not want to start properly with longer service life.

Hello. A question that I’ve been busy for a long time – how is it with new batteries you don’t know how long to stand on the shelf? The time when you buy a lead battery the same is just filled with acid are over. Practically all are “maintenance-free” What does the things are filled inside the factory and then stand in the factory and shop. 2 months. 6months. Maybe also 1 year. What happens during this time? They are unloaded and sulfate? Because no store has 1x per month n Charger drann. Looking forward to the answers Gruss, Marco

Hello, I am currently building some harnesses for retrofitting. I have need of uninsulated connectors, flat contacts or whatever you call them. These are crimped with a special pliers on the cable, the contacts then fit perfectly into the respective plugs and rest there as well. At my VW dealer I got quite a lot of gifts, that was the rest. Only repair lines are used, that is a approx. 30cm long cable where on Both ends of the respective pin is crimped. One should then connect the cable to the other… But where are these pins/flat contacts, whatever to buy individually? Consolation said “No, we didn’t”, ATU did not have that either, steel pit can only sell me bags with 100 pieces (buses but only 10-15), the local Bosch service does not give them to me and the other VW dealers have disposed of these electric boxes long ago. I thank you for hints!