Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, my car has been driving around quite restlessly since the last workshop stay. At the speed the car pulls away to the right. The chassis has been measured and I have received the protocol, but I don’t understand so much. I once attached it with. The fall in front is still further beyond the tolerance after resetting it. Also, the spread seems a bit strange to me, because the value differs from left to right, is that okay? Kan What exactly does one read the target angle? In the case of the fall of the rear axle e.g. the fall should be 1°20′, but may differ by +0°30 or -0°30. On the left and right, however, it may not be like 0°30 apart?

Hello together, I just had a discussion with colleagues about downsizing engines or why exactly these are more economical. Downsizing engines have a smaller cylinder capacity and should therefore be more economical. I understand that as far as the cylinder capacity is smaller, it takes less gasoline to fill the combustion chamber, the friction surfaces are smaller and the piston itself is also smaller, and will therefore also have less mass to accelerate. Also the whole engine ansi Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa the piston, conrod, cylinder wall etc. are a little more designed than with a normal suction motor. So where or why is fuel saved by downsize?

Hello, unfortunately I did not find any threads matching my request, so I open a new one. Before a few basic informations: The car is a BMW 520d F11, BJ 2017, 50,000 km just used bought, according to previous owner (serious!) so far no problems with the battery. So, I have said car, because I drive little due to corona at the moment and because I have “played” with standing car on the new vehicle “(Settings etc.) connected the charger ( At the charging points in the engine room). When I wanted to see if I could clamp it off in the evening, the LED 5 (analysis) lit up at the CTEK. So I left it on overnight. The next day the device showed LED 3 (bulk). I then stuck it off because I would have needed the car, but it was different. Then I connected the CTEK again one day later and now it shows after about 1 hour LED 2 (soft start). That all seems illogical to me … Did someone have an ide e, what could be involved with it? Thank you very much!!!

My father says every time we talk about high speeds, that this always ends in a disaster. To explain: I like to drive fast. My father on the highway 120, however, because this is safer and car-friendly. He is always afraid that there is something broken on the car. Now to my actual question: Is something happened to you, or do you know someone, because he has driven too fast? I don’t mean by that now, however, that d I drive ONLY fast, if the traffic permits, which my father does not understand either, because he always tells you, if someone drives in front of you and that 100000 times. My question refers to that something breaks on the car. His Supergau examples are: tire-placers, valves break, or yesterday the Burner camshaft breaks or what do I know and at speed 220 (my maximum speed) blo Now seriously: Do you know such cases where such a thing happened and WHEN: How often did it happen? My father always beats: Do you quickly die or end up in a wheelchair. And what happened so far? Nothing! I am an ultra careful driver and drive Vmax., if it is REALLY possible, or if I am on the AB at 2 o’clock at night and no one is driving on the left lane and sometimes on the right. I don’t think I’m going to drive a truck, but I don’t think I’m going to get anyone on my trail so I can drive it in. What do you think of his horror ideas? Exaggerated, or yet a reason to think?

Hello again! So my fiesta should get again tüv (18 years old) ….. Since the whole underfloor rusts quite strongly a friend kfz master gave me two possibilities to come through the TÜV and I should choose a possibility. One possibility would be to spray properly with such a kind of spachtel mass and then paint with underfloor varnish and then to lubricate with much underfloor protection. The other possibility would be everything with rust converter very much d after 12 hours rinse off with high-pressure cleaner and look at how stable it is, because thin underfloor protection spray over it. . What possibility would you take and why? Please don’t write that both is stupid, I barely have a cent and need the car urgently. What does the car hold with even longer?

Hello together my first post here and immediately a question: I use my Ford Explorer year 2015 as a microcamper, but without the car really as a camper, I say I have no second consumer battery in the car. In the reason I simply have a mattress in the back and always when I am at the campsite I have all my consumers at an external power source. However, since I often have to get to the car, door open and close, suitcases open and go every time I open the door di e Interior lighting, the display etc. on and consumes electricity from the start battery. I don’t want to remodel the car as I use it as a camper only a few weeks a year, i.e. jam the interior lighting etc. does not come into question. If I stand for a two days in one place I get massive problems with the charge of the start battery and can hardly start the car any more. Now my question: would the problem solve itself and would be that at all possible if I just every time I come to the campsite, connect the start battery to a charger (example CTEK 5.0) and have the charger permanently on until I start again a few days later? According to my understanding, then the battery, which discharges during the day through the indoor lighting etc. in the night will be discharged again and I would have a full start battery the next day. Do I have a thinking error? Thank you for your input in this matter.

Hello, can someone tell me how much you can practically draw from the lead batteries? With the LiFeYPo4 it is 91%, after that the voltage sinks into the danger area. I got a “used” AGM with 70Ah, which shows as idle voltage just 12.3V one day after Volladen and just not 13.0 or 13.3. Sometimes it is also only 12.0V. I loaded it once and then turned on all lamps and unloaded within 3h. When reloading the charger explained 50Ah I would agree with the 50Ah, would be 71%, while 12.0 or 12.3V would look more like a slow death process. How much did the AGM really measure at the time? An old wet battery had just recorded 29Ah at such a death. 2. Does someone have an AGM with them and can sometimes measure the voltage straight? 3. Whether one can take the more robust GEL batteries in the car or tolerate the no high charging currents and burst? Gel should be far more durable than AGM and wet. It is therefore recommended in the yacht area, as they can not allow kittens on the sea.

Hello, with my car (Hyundai Santa Fe SM from 2001) it is very difficult to get the drive shaft out, according to a forum article, to that in another post it is necessary to exchange the axle cuff (wheel side) . According to my research not much are good axle cuffs to stick – but the posts were all older. Now I wonder if there are now good glue cuffs or if there are possibilities for permanent repair of the axle cuff. ch a bitumen repair tape for gutters attached to the defective cuff and these with cable ties – this is of course not a permanent solution but maybe someone has a good idea. What is not obvious to me as a layman is that one needs fat in the drive shaft if this anyway due to the centrifugal forces does not stick to the joint during the ride … maybe someone can explain that. Currently only one cuff is affected but the other 7 also look porous, i.e. i.e. h will have the problem more often because I want to drive the car for a long time, so I’m only looking for permanent solutions. Thank you very much for tips and nice Easter! Greeting Stefan

Hello What if you order a spare part, this is delivered, you agree on an appointment in the same course in the werksatt, and the article is delivered incorrectly. After that, you have been advertised with the correct number of parts that will be delivered please replacement. Replacement came quickly and it was again the wrong item. The workshop says now : if the appointment is cancelled 1 day before, a replacement for the downtime is required. Can I charge the dealer, o who only try at several?

For my Ford Transit V363 I’m looking for a light starter battery. It’s a RV upgrade, which unfortunately has become quite difficult… The starter battery should be renewed anyway, so it’s now on the collar. Basically, the starter battery is always recharged automatically by my Lifepo4 builder batteries if it doesn’t hold the voltage. So now was my thought, I could have a lead acid battery with less capacity and still the same Stro The current installed battery is the following: VARTA Blue Dynamic F17 car battery 12V 80Ah Lifepo4 as starter battery is I don’t think a good idea, because of temperature sensitivity? The Lifepo4 build-up batteries in the air-conditioned interior are theoretically up to 300A loadable, but I don’t want to charge so high or do I not want to use the entire built-in Microco. destroy ntroller with the on-board network. Then I would need at least 2x120qmm cable, and that at about 6m cable path, then the cables weigh the saved battery weight