Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, after driving the BMW F20 yesterday, it is clear to me that I will only buy this car with another suspension or shorter springs. There are two possibilities: Ordering sports suspension and having only shorter springs installed, or ordering series suspension and then having a complete suspension installed. Who has experience with these topics? What is better and more consistent in the end? Thanks Chinook

Hello together, I would like to know if the new cars, which are currently equipped with the new LED lighting technology, can be replaced separately by the units (LED’s or light bulbs) in the event of a failure, or if you have to replace the entire lighting unit or even the whole headlight? It would be a pity if you had to replace whole components, which after a good 10 years certainly would not be so easy to use, with which the new lights In the case of old vehicles or vintage cars, you can still buy glue lamps (H1, H2, H4 etc.) and other components (mechanically) can be reproduced. Plastic parts can even be made with a 3-D printer. But what about the lighting systems? Look forward to the answers The Moose

Hi, I’d like to know if and how to measure the state of charge of a car battery with the multimeter correctly. I just want to be able to judge whether you should charge the battery or not. I’ve already read something about it, but the discussions often go in the direction of “you can’t measure everything with it either”. Sure, but I’m only talking about the significance of whether the thing is “empty” or not and when it’s empty. You can just hold and measure the multimeter, but d The point is, my uncle got a new battery today and then immediately hung his cheap little “battery meter” on it (I don’t trust the piece of shit). The thing showed that the battery was half charged. He wanted to charge immediately, because half charged is also shown orange which means “attention!”. The “measuring device” tells me a But I kept the multimeter to it before and the thing had 12.69 volts. From my point of view, the state of charge was ok? But is the question how to interpret the 12.69 volts from the multimeter or the result of the “measuring device” if the battery is not connected in the car? I had found “direct values” somewhere in the network too. 1.7 to 1.8 V stand for fully charged. That was then also n but I can’t find the page anymore. I don’t know how serious you can take such a thing? I suppose I have a car, the battery is connected. Do you just keep the multimeter there and can then interpret the value according to any specifications? Play as in the end still things like life time (car has just been moved or not), weather, temperature or type of car/battery type a role. If the battery is just charged n, then you should not measure. So you would have to wait a while (not exactly defined) after a car ride? mfg

Hello, do cars with or without ESP have more problems? This is only to be checked if one compares the same model with and without ESP. As far as I know, the 7 Series BMW e38 from mid-99 had standard DSC (which is the name for ESP at BMW). Before that, there was the DSC as a special equipment (don’t know from which year of construction). I would be interested if e38 which were built in the years before caused more problems by hurling. In the Mercedes w-140 (S-Class) from the nineties ESP was available from 95 as a special equipment, so it would also be interesting whether these models cause less slingshots. Does anyone know where I get the info? Greetings and thanks Stefan

My mother has bought a 2012 Porsche Cayenne Hybrid (no plug-in). This one has a NiMh battery. That’s where my neck hair is. I immediately think of the old mobile phone batteries and cheap battery vacuum cleaners, battery drills, etc. With them the batteries are raked by memory effect and general aging. How do the car manufacturers solve the dilemma? My brother thinks that the batteries have a lot to do with memory effects and overall aging. It seems to me that this is a bit dubious. With modern hybrids with LiIo batteries, the problem is certainly not so tragic, but also these lose their power. And with a car for tens of thousands of euros it would be a drama. And an exchange is expensive and expensive. So someone here knows what?

Hello! I’m a bit unsure, so my question. I’ve been driving a used BMW 116i, 2l engine, 12/09. The new one has a digital reserve display and asks me to fill up at 100 km residual range. How bad is it now, if I fill up much later – e.g. at 20 km residual range or even later? Thanks and greetings, RI

Hello, short question of understanding. I was at the FOH today and had the error memory read out. They let me know that the “speed encoder crankshaft” would trigger the error. However, I couldn’t quite find this term in the net. Is this another term for “OT-Geber” and “Crankshaft Sensor”? Thank you in advance.

Hello guys, I changed the brake discs and pads today (like some sure on my other topic knowledge). Everything was great… only at the rear right the screw did not want to loosen the brake caliper (or whatever this thing is called)… I’m talking about the metal caliper in which the brake pads are pushed before you then put on the actual brake caliper and screw it down. When changing the disc this thing also has to be down with… The last rear right wanted sic h then did not let it loose and I even managed to turn it almost round! Since I could solve the first one at least, I could knock it off sideways with the hammer and get the new brake disc with a lot of trouble on it. No nice solution… but everything worked. The brakes at the front did not necessarily have to be changed. But did these also order and will also not last forever… Is there any trick to solve this screw? Have seen this one have blue protective paint on it and the screws loosen like a jerk… so if the varnish gives way…. I guess I can’t get there with a impact wrench… is too tight… Does anyone have tips or ideas? Actually, I wanted to change all 4 right away so that I could have some rest and come safely through the next Tüv…

Recently I had my Honda (see signature) during the lunch break on the lift to find a noise. I used the opportunity to inspect the underbody and also to make a few mobile phone pictures. The car was partly sandblasted two years ago and treated with Mercasol underbody protection. Now I see, among other things, behind the petrol tank and over some crosscarriers light approaches of aerial rust. Everything looks quite harmless, in my opinion – see appendix – but w Do you have to intervene here? Normally I would try to go over there with some sandpaper, then brush in with rust converter, and possibly oil a bit after drying. However, it is difficult to access and time I don’t have any… Lieb Gruss Oli

Hi, over the years here at MT I have noticed that sports accessories such as – sports rims – sports seats – sports mirrors – sports air filters – sports suspensions – sports exhaust systems – sports pedals and many other parts are very popular. However, most of these parts are installed on vehicles that serve as pure everyday vehicles and a (though low) sporting activity with these vehicles is revealed quite rarely. This has led me to the conclusion that this accessory mainly serves the show and rarely brings real (measurable) benefits. I would evaluate the ratio with 95% show to 5% benefit. How do you see that? Did I perhaps miss something in my considerations?