Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

The following problem: How about the (first) registration of a new car with Euro5 standard starting in 2015? I buy a golf in the Czech Republic as a new car and the 1.2 TSI engine has the Euro5 standard. The car will be delivered in January 2015. Do I get a registration for the car in Germany or do I have to show a Euro6 Norem?? My research results are contradictory: here Wikipedia, see section car with petrol engine:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abgasnorm There is a Euro 6: Type test from 1.09.2014 and registration from 1.09.2015 I assume that the type test (with Euro 5 engine) of the golf took place before 1.09.2014, therefore the first registration with Euro 5 engine can take place until 31.08.2015. So would fit. But in other articles like here e.g. http://www.erdgas-mobil.de/…/ says: All car models, for which the manufacturers apply for a new type registration from September 2014, must meet the Euro 6 standard. Euro 6-conformity This means that I could no longer allow the Euro5 Golf in D from January 2015, since Euro 6 is not compliant. What do you think?

Moin, my girlfriend just dropped the HU with her small car. The car reached the following measured values: front: li 150, re 160 rear: li 70, re 40 total braking power: 37% I calculated this time and did not get this brake value. Approach: F=m*g The brake values are in daN therefore 10N. So the calculation for the braking power in %: x=brake force/weight force x=(1500N+1600N+700N+400N)/(700kg*9.91m/s2) = 0.61 = 61% Clear, the deviation from right back to left is behind with 57% much too high, but the overall braking performance should be right or not? Does the repair effort make a bigger difference. So can someone explain this to me? Thank you Dennis

Hello, I asked myself several times, since we had an A2 in the family, why Audi could achieve such a low weight for a fully grown car (one observes the space in the interior). Sure, the A2 had an aluminium body. So far so good. But the new i3 is heavier than the expired Audi A2 1.2 TDI. Even with the battery of the i3 the Audi would have been lighter.Weight A2 1.2 TDI (without driver) – 855kg weight i3 without REX (without driver) 1195 kg battery weight of the i3 – 230kg So why is the i3 heavier, despite the carbon fiber passenger cell? Carbon is about 50% lighter than aluminium. Is it because the thermoplastic planking weighs extra weight for the i3? It is also important to remember that the engine and the gearbox weighs significantly more than the electric motor from the BMW. Since all the auxiliary units from the Audi bring a lot of weight with them. It is clear to me that the carbon is not the same as carbon and that there are also differences in aluminium. Audi simply did a job that was too good as a lightweight world champion at the time, or why is the i3 heavier now?

How does the fire department know that a condenser is not installed in the car?? Do the fire department have to jam both? Battery and condenser??

Hello! I would have a question for the exhaust professionals among you: And I would like to know if there is anything to do with switching 2 silencers into series production? I know that this is accompanied by a noise reduction, but the question is whether this is actually effective? Specifically, this would be interesting for me with motorcycles. Especially with the newer models, instead of the heavy cat rel., one could simply switch a silencer into series production to the ESD(s). I know that this may sound a bit stupid, but the idea would be to replace the original ESD(s) from design and not from sound reasons with fische Zubehör-ESD(s) and then to install a silencer instead of the cat, in order to clearly undercut the noise level of the original system. Does anyone have experience with two silencers in series? Is this greatly reducing the volume and what happens frequencywise? ? (Will the low frequencies be eliminated well?) Or can the machine only be made noticeably quieter by means of a more effective ESD? [Remark on the low frequencies: I assume that these are the more critical at long distances, because when I think of Motocross machines, one can hear only the dull paws of the 4Ter at a distance]

Hello deville73! That’s a pity that my topic was closed. Maybe I could be explained as a newcomer in this forum why and why? Or I should put my question differently… I want to change the lock cylinder.How exactly do I have to proceed? If this question is not allowed, I ask to delete my member account again. MfG hotti 62

Hello I have a vehicle which mixes oil into the cooling water PöaPö. The CC was changed 1.5 years ago because of crack in the CC thereby water loss. After that oil in the water. On guarantee they have made the ZK again and changed ZKD. No improvement. How great is the probability of the engine hull has a crack ? Car has at 135 TKm ÖLGEMISHT and is from bj 2003 . Can one check the crack in the engine somehow ? I think that one cannot achieve anything with the testing of the water pressure loss because the oil pressure can be up to 7 bar compared to 1-1.5 bar water pressure. MFG Nihat

without words www.kfz-innung-borken-bocholt.de/…/T21-RS-AU-Guidelines.pdf

Hello. For a long time I have been wondering about various unharmonious “well” torque curves with typically suction boxers. So also to be observed at the current Subaru BRZ. The torque (and thus the power) is mainly influenced by the filling level and the quality of the combustion. Is it not possible to design the suction system optimally for boxer engines? Thank you in advance!

Hi, I hope I’m right here in the forum, I didn’t find anything more suitable. So I have an old barkas and I’m just welding the body. The welding device is a “migboy 200” from messer griesheim so a protective gas gets. Before I didn’t have a very big sweating knowledge, but I can manage now. However, I have problems with the correct setting of the device from time to time. Meistst does this with the setting so that I get super beautiful welding points (to be sure, But then it happens again and again that on my exercise sheets the biggest holes are simply fried. I know, this is above all a matter of exercise and also a matter of feeling. That’s the only way I have such problems to get a good feeling. Since I want to spare myself a relatively expensive welding course, I hope to get advice here (for the sake of being able to still attend a course) The problem is that I do not want to miss out on any other plates, but I hope to get advice here. hrmal quite well knows what the buttons mean (sounds funny now, but when it was set up there were no problems) and in the internet I could not find a guide in my search. So I have a large central rotary knob (continuously) which is responsible for the wire feed (and probably also regulates the voltage). Then a smaller rotary switch with 12 steps, which probably adjusts the current strength (?). Then there are two connections into which you can insert the mass of the plugs kan n (once 220 and 380 volts ?). Furthermore, there is a small stepless rotary switch which, according to the symbol, should have something to do with the wire length outside the burner. I hope for quick and nice help. Thanks already. I could come to a picture of the switchboard, but since I only have mobile internet and the workshop is a bit away. That’s why everything is mostly small.