Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Servus! I used the search function but found nothing. What I noticed for a long time is that many newer vehicles have no coolant temperature indicator [oil would be more important in my opinion] anymore. VW Polo, Seat Ibiza, Skoda Fabia, Opel Corsa, Toyota Yaris, Toyota Aygo, Mazda 2, etc. I always found it nice to know when the water is warm, then 15 – 20 km normally continued until the engine oil is also warm [Experience value from the motorcycle, since I have oil temperature displays] and only then will the engine be required if necessary. Was this only saved for cost reasons or are there reasonable technical arguments for this? With a strongly rising pointer on the “water clock” I can still take counter measures [heating fully up, engine off, etc.], the warning lamp will certainly only come when it is too late… I would definitely retrofit water and oil temperature indicator in the car if not available. I like the technology “in view”. What do you think?

Hi all, Here’s a summary of my coolant problem (I’ve had it for a few weeks): •Vehicle. Skoda Fabia TDI RS •Cool water evaporates regularly (every 50km) when the engine is warm (display 90°C) •Interior heating works quite normally; in the overflow tank (if you call it that?) I also see water being transported. So the water pump should work. •The heat exchanger of the large circuit always remains cold (I assume it should be in normal condition). And when driving on the motorway, you get so warm that you can feel it with your hand, right?) Ergo: big circuit is not flown through by the cooling water 1. Suspicion: Thermostat defective. I ordered and installed a new thermostat (was quite easy; LiMa doesn’t even have to be folded out, but just to the front. I could leave belts on it). Interim result: no change It is still the case that the large circuit is not flown through, even though the pump runs and the thermostat is new. first question: When changing thermostats, air was certainly also released into the system, and certainly also into the large circuit. I did not vent anything, since I assumed that the air would be transported through the circuit after a short time and that it would be stuck in the balancing tank and that it would be gone the next time. If that was the case, then my second suspicion: large circuit is clogged. Therefore, I think I could dismantle the heat exchanger and use tap water or Rinse through high pressure cleaners. Maybe even soak with correga tabs or something like that. I’ve also read that you give any cleaner directly into the cooling water. But if the large circuit is actually clogged, then nothing comes from the cleaner on the heat exchanger. Quite basic concerns or comments?

Hello, I bought a used Viano bus. Now I had to find out that a seam on the back seat is loose. As a result, I informed the car dealer. (Mercedes dealer) The seller informed me that there can be certain traces of usage and a seat would better not count the seam as material defects liability.

Reports of early wear-out batteries in vehicles with stop-start system and recuperation often read that the system has always been deactivated. On the other hand, there are reports in which the vehicle is driven completely unbiased, i.e. with the use of all existing consumers and the stop-start function, and the battery lasts for quite 4 to 6 years. It may be that the battery in systems with recupe, provided that the engine is sufficiently long to operate if the stop-start function is used?

Hi, I’m trying here. Hope there are some professionals with regard to driving behavior… I have a Tiguan 2 (2018, BiTDI, AWD, R-Line) and find the driving behavior better/harmonious. Especially the straight-out run seems unstable. In other words, it pushes back and forth, but so minimal that it is not noticeable in the steering wheel. (However, the steering wheel of the Tiguan also reacts very reluctantly in the middle position, that easy back and forth does not show any reaction – what la ut VW is supposed to be like this).And the car moves very quickly e.g. with Gulli lids etc. What I have done so far or had it done: – Steering geometry several times (up to precise specification VW) – Have everything checked for play – Exchanged wheels, tried with summer and winter wheels – Reset DCC – Mount springs from H&R Now I wonder if I could possibly get something out with other values regarding track/sturt or rerun ev. than the specified ones of VW? , if possible, the steering react a bit “straffer” as this is very smooth? Does anyone even know an address in Switzerland (or southern German area) that really (!) have a clue?

Hello, I just have a 12 V/12 Ah motorcycle battery from Varta “for care”. The battery was almost dry and had 0.3V after refilling with distilled water, i.e. brutally deep discharge. First I tried it with a low-priced automatic charger, which showed zero response. The battery is probably recognized as 6V battery. The other charger, from Cartrend with max. 6A charging current, gives at least one feedback in the form of a short ejecting amperemeter. Charging voltage is approx. 13.5 V. My plan would be to fill the battery completely with acid and to hang the “large” charger for 1 – 2 hours. If the battery then accepted the charge, the automatic charger will come back to the battery. Now it would be interesting to know if there is any chance (in whatever form) for success or not.

Moin, since the ideas go out in the Corsaforum, I ask again here. Corsa B X12SZ 110tsdkm consumes too much, in the 5th barely 120……If you beat him in the 4th, max 135 If you step through the accelerator, you have the feeling that the engine wants to be right but you can’t really do it….It runs very cold and accelerates the first 1000m normal….then it accelerates normally in the case of slightly kicked pedal, and in the case of a low pedal, it has quite slight jerker and accelerates not really faster….Turns in principle down to the limiter. In the 4th and 5th it then finally takes the blow out of it for good….In the 4th and 5th it turns out: Lambdasonde spark plugs ignition module ignition cable map sensor coolant sensor sprite filter air filter AGR valve injection nozzle throttle switch false air does not draw error memory…… ideas always here….Bin adviceless idea that the cat is still close to the part…. Thermostat is broken… as long as the first thing.

I changed my 12 volt battery 3 weeks ago. Unfortunately I left the dipped light in my Golf 4 over 2 days. The battery was then completely empty. Not even the ignition went on. I couldn’t even charge the battery. The 12 volt battery was not detected. Only when I switched my old battery in parallel was the new empty battery charged. I fully charged the new battery and reinstalled it. Car starts. I also have another 1 volt battery. 2 V battery ordered because I absolutely need the car from Tuesday and I didn’t think that the completely empty battery can recharge. Now I have two questions: Is the battery worn out strongly even though I could recharge it? The battery is practically new. I want to keep the additional 12 V battery as a reserve. How long can a new 12 V battery be stored, which was not “activated” or not installed before it starts to wear out?

Happy Sunday dear Audi friends, I have a few questions about my A4 2.0 TDI (EZ 10/2009 -> 2010 model) and hope you can help me. I know the AHK question (1) is not necessarily Audi-related, but hope for an answer anyway. 1) I have such a removable Westfalia trailer coupling (similar) as on the photo. The previous owner of my A4 had probably had the trailer coupling permanently mounted, and always has the red key in the trailer coupling I started using a lot of rust solvers and then tried to pull out the key with a plier, but the key was broken. The “key-blade” was very porous because of rust. Then I tried to drill out the key rest, which was probably not a good idea, because now the key cylinder is broken. Here someone knows, whether you can replace the lock cylinder individually, or you need to sit down, with the result that this TOTAL was rusted. a completely new hook? If you can change the lock cylinder, who does it most cheaply? 2) The second question concerns the MMI system in my Audi. Can you see from the attached photo which MMI version I have in my A4? I have already searched and Googled here in the forum, but am not quite sure if I am right – but isn’t it a MMI 3G Basic? Thanks in advance for your answers.

One year ago I lowered my Mazda 6 GH with H&R sport springs (40mm). Since the rear dampers had to be changed shortly before, I also changed the front time with the lowering springs for new ones (at least 70€/piece). Driving behaviour had been great at the beginning. Is it actually now, only that for a few months the car slightly hops or moves sideways in fast-run bends at blows or bumps. ackst/klackert it now also very strongly front right when driving over unevennesses. It would be best to describe this as if the axle had not been screwed in front somewhere completely or the cans de transverse handlebars knocked out. –>But everything is not the case. Even oils the dampers don’t. Could it be that the dampers are already over now after a year old. What you should know. The lowering is, although indicated with 40mm, at front easy 60, if not even 65mm ong efallen. Was initially surprised, and nobody could explain to me, even the shop, where I bought it (mk-fahrwerkstechnik.de) But it all fit, looks meeega, and driving behavior top. Now to my questions: 1. Could this extreme (at least for a serial damper) lowering have killed the front dampers for a year already?? 2. Are these noises (paintings) common or point to a damper defect ??? 3. could I actually beantantan the……. ? Now I’m thinking about getting the B8, are the shortened dampers of Bilstein just for strong lowerings…… …..and then three more questions: 4. Is the “healthy” (i.e. regarding driving behavior) front B8 and rear standard dampers??? 5. Does the car come further deeper by the switch from Standard to the shortened B8? That wouldn’t suit me at all…..because it’s already ass-knack with the wheelrails front. 6. Would it be a consideration to press the springs behind to leave, that they also come on rough 60mm draught … and then immediately around B8 ́s ?? Here are some more pictures: