Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello together, I need some help. And I want to connect an alternator to a system that consists of a battery and a few consumers. The alternator is constantly driven, while consumers do not always need juice. Now the question is how to wire it properly without risking overload or overvoltage? Rich plus and minus out, because the Lima itself regulates this or do I need one of the three pins on the additional plug somewhere This is the alternator :https://www.ebay.de/itm/385346156498?… The system works with 24v and two new 12v batteries are switched in series. In the appendix you can also see the data sheet of the Lima.

Hi, my Audi A5 is equipped with an AGM battery. The battery doesn’t seem to have that much capacity anymore. Now it had to charge more often with my CTek. You shouldn’t use the recond mode with AGM. Battery seems to be an OEM battery (has an Audi part number on it). Some batteries could be filled with distilled water. At AGM I find mixed opinions. With me you can see under the sticker the plugs. So I could theoret until everything is covered with water again. Is there an expert here on the subject?

Dear friends, can you leave the “principle” or rather the rule of thumb so that V-engines are always more unfriendly and complex than in-line engines? If I look at the engine compartment in which a V-engine sits, even if it is only a “small” 2.4L, then this is so crowded. It looks like I have to disassemble half the car just to get to a throttle valve or similar banal things. If I imagine my 1.6L in the VW Touran, I can sink my arm up to the shoulder into the engine compartment. If I remember my 1.2L Sandero, I could have put myself in the engine compartment next to the engine (extremely said). In addition, the V-engine contains many expensive elements twice like camshafts, cylinder head seals, valve covers etc. But also counter examples are quite available. In the E39 5 BMW, there was hardly any space between all the components to work. Whereas the Americans swore on the old V8 engines as “any farmer who has no two left hands can work on the thing”. Where the space ratio in an old 70s giant Ami is different than in a densely packed Audi A4 with a 4.2L V8 Can the thumb rule listed above be so standing or is it always dependent on the individual case?

Moin, today I cleaned the car a little bit, checked tyre pressure and measured profile. The front tyres are so at 5mm both. The rear tyres were always a bit better during previous checks and had pi times thumbs a millimeter more profile on it. Now the rear left tyre has still so 6-7mm, the right rear one suddenly reaches only 5mm. In the past there were no measurable deviations between left and right. Since I have not driven so much lately, w I already change myself about the suddenly strong wear of a tire. Since this problem did not exist before and I do not drive any curbs up and down and even nowhere with the tire or the rim I exclude a suddenly adjusted track first rather. The car also runs normally straight while driving and braking. However, I have the feeling (maybe it is really just a feeling) that the wheels erase something when I slowly drive a narrow left turn. So, al Is it not always the case, especially right after the start, when everything is still cold. How best to do it? Can you somehow check whether the drive train is tense or just feeling? I would not like to have new tires put on it soon, as long as the problem is not found. If it’s stupid, I’ll ruin a tire again. It’s a Subaru Forester with automatic, because it’s a Subaru Forester. s means that the all-wheel is permanent (normal power distribution probably at 80:20)m if required up to 50:50 and is controlled by a lamella coupling.

Dear Motor-Talk Community, I have changed spark plugs for three cars in the family, all three cars have now NGK spark plugs with flat seat and sealing ring. On the NGK website I have just read that it is recommended to put on spark plugs with 25nm – 30nm. I have set 20nm on the torque wrench for all 3 cars. Should I correct the torque again or can nothing happen because of 5nm difference? Next time I should go to the manufacturer’s site to Sufficient to lead Best regards Jan

Hello together, with my oldie (Jaguar) it turned out that the cable from the LiMa to the starter is already quite age-weak (runs directly next to the engine), i.e. the external insulation is quite stiff and crumbling, there are already two cracks in it. The problem is: the cable is no longer available to buy. Now my thought was that one could simply take electric cable as a meter-ware and attach ring cable shoes to both ends to connect it in the car. guess I, cable is not the same cable, so what do I have to pay attention to? As far as electrical equipment is concerned, I am rather unnecessary, I only know that the starter has 1.8Kw according to the spare parts catalog and the LiMa probably 120A, can be derived from this somewhat regarding the quality of the cable? Greetings Olli

Well, bought from a good friend for almost nothing. Would be a nice project to straighten up again, which is again completely exhausted anyway. So. It is about two Recaro Ergomed Ausf. D with fabric cover, a seat for left, a seat for right. – height, back and back manually adjustable – lordosis and side panels electric adjustable – seat heating – air conditioning package – incl the matching consoles for my ride the driver’s seat is, of course, properly rocked down. The sidewalls of seat cushions and backrest are torn open and there is a lot of foam missing. The passenger seat is, as always, in impeccable condition. Now my questions: – Is there possibly somewhere on the Internet or somewhere else in explosion drawings or a part catalog? (google search for foam parts is a bit difficult without an exact number) – maybe you can see so also how the seats are assembled or how I can disassemble them? (Original Audi seats, for example, are a lot provided with plastic pins in the claddings) – a connection plan (safeguard) and an operating instruction would not be bad. I have found the original black cover fabric before. Registration should be no problem, KBA number is also on both seats, my examiner always looks up if he wants to know something. So maybe a Recarof looks at it. Achmann this post.

Hello to each other, I have tortured the Internet, but I didn’t really find it. It’s about the import of a Swiss vehicle to Germany. It’s a classic car (33 years old) originally from Germany (Mercedes). I know that I have to tax or customs the car. It’s either 19% EUSt or 7% inch if the car is recognized as a classic car. So far so clear. This information is actually everywhere. But what now? Mostly becomes on “professionally” ” Importers/brokers are expelled, but is this so difficult to carry out themselves? Planned border crossing is Kreuzlingen/Konstanz on the A7/B33. For my understanding, I use the ATLAS page for an Internet customs declaration and fill it out as far as possible and use the tariff number 9705 for vintage cars. Actually also clear. But what do I have to do on the Swiss side? Is there anything for the export? Export registration marks at the office in Switzerland should, however, not be a problem, that is on the en I wanted to get a confirmation from the TÜV that the vehicle will most probably receive an H-mark in order to provide an argument for the tariff number.

Good morning dear municipality, I have a question regarding the A: General regulations B: Registration or non-approval possibilities of an own underrun protection. Here is a sketch. The bright colours serve only for identification. The underrun protection replaces part of the original bumper but lies in driving direction HINTER of the bumper and the impact plate behind the bumper. It also replaces the standard plastic underbody under the engine/gear box. bt neither protruding nor pointed edges. The partly cut off original push rod is stabilized by screwing in the impact plate, if necessary (red dots on the picture) Question A: does something like this have to be checked/entered at all? Question B: if something like this has to be removed/entered? What does it cost me? Don’t misunderstand. I don’t want to be “BOOKED ON EVERYONE, I don’t know where it is but it’s SO” sayings. d here asked. It is about a clean manual work. I will still contact the TÜV itself in due course. Nevertheless, I am interested in the opinion of the TÜV experienced and knowledgeable here in the forum. Here is a sketch of the whole.

Hello to each other, I used to drive a Yaris XP9 1.33 VVTi suction cup, meanwhile switched to a Fabia 3 1L TSI. The car is very quiet even in the low speed range. I seem to be able to drive easily in the 4th gear at Tempomat 43 and in the 5th at 53 with approx. 1200 rpm with relatively flat road up to very easy ascent. My Yaris would have been buzzing like crazy with the speed at that time. Can of course also be due to the today’s low mileage. , Is it healthy to drive the engine like this or should I rather go down a gear to 1500-1600 rpm? Of course I don’t always drive like this, once a week I’m also on the highway. Thanks for your informed opinion.