Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello ! I have a general question and would like to know how to carry out an oil pressure measurement with a vehicle with petrol engine. How and what exactly must be measured for this? Is the procedure for diesel and petrol engines the same? I drive a VW Golf 3 with year 1997. Just ahead: I have no problems with the car, it would interest me only out of purely technical knowledge desire, how to carry out such a measurement. Thank you very much! Greetz Maik

Hello, I’ve been driving a new Honda Jazz for 4 months and I’m getting back pains when and after driving. The seats are, although modest, adjustable. I’ve tried a lot of variations, before, back, up, down, leaning upright or slightly backwards, but it’s somehow always the same. The muscles tense and get tough. I had zero problems with old Jazz, because even my previously existing back problems have improved. Some car manufacturers offer special “ergonomic seats”, at an additional cost – but I found nothing in the accessories catalogue at Honda. And the seat of an old jazz or even another car brand will probably not fit the workshop (can), right? Or could any seat support help? Since I didn’t need something like this, I don’t know myself and have no experience. Maybe someone has a similar P roblem and can give tips? lg shenya

Hello, something strange happened to me yesterday. I ran and ran some consumers, including the water level heating. Then came the message “battery level low” in AI. But I did not pay attention, and it may be that the message was already there for a few minutes. Ok, so start the engine immediately before the battery gets completely empty! Unfortunately too late: clack clack clack clack… Oh shit, there I stand in nowhere at night. I then saw if there was a gradient nearby. is, on which I can start the car, then consider who I can call etc. By now about 15 minutes had passed, and out of a whim I started the car again, which also jumped immediately without organs at the first turns of the starter. What happened there? The battery is quite new, it should not lie on it. Charging voltage is also ok. “Recovers” a battery, if it has been sucked out, so that you get another last chance?

Good evening, maybe a professional engine technician can answer my question more precisely. I drive a Mercedes A200 Turbo 26000Km. Recently on the highway I accidentally switched off, namely from the 6th to the 5 gear, and that at a speed of about 130 – 150 km/h, I let the clutch come reasonably slowly, am only very scared, because the speed indicator quickly arrived at about 3800 rpm. I quickly returned to the clutch. With the last 25Km up to my destination I didn’t hear anything suspicious. Do I really worry about consequential damage. Now my question; Will the lifespan of the conrod bearings (general bearings) or engine technology be greatly shortened? Could something else (after another km) be noticeable or closed? I didn’t feel anything about the “motor brake”, I hope that no oil film crack was created somewhere in the engine when this rapid speed increase occurred. However, if I would step the clutch slowly, then switch from the 6th to the 5th, immediately the clutch would have let go too quickly, and the speed would jump abruptly from e.g. 1000 to 4000; which engine parts would then be the most stressed? What is worse for the engine; “Hard blows on the pistons (explosion) or the connecting bearing ..or the “shut operation” because the engine is not moving under load, the gearbox drives the engine, But if this speed increase is so healthy for the bearings & co….I doubt it. >Slowly < rising speed I would call healthy, but if you accidentally switched off and let the clutch go too fast, for example, the crankshaft gets the high speeds off the gearbox, clearly the engine slows down a little, but somewhere the wear or abrasion in the engine you never learn from.... Thanks already for your effort and I nformative answers, Best regards

Hello together, have found no comparable contribution in any forum and would need some help. Project: Would like to install a modern garage door opener firmly in the car Situation: In the car is already installed a switch, which closes a 12V circuit and ends with a +/- cable in the engine compartment. i.e. when the switch is active in the interior, the cable in the engine compartment 12V voltage arrives. Here can now be connected a customer (formerly here was an outdated Gara gentoröffner module installed that doesn’t match today’s gate). Problem: The handheld transmitter for the modern and current gate runs with 3V. How can such a handheld transmitter be connected there, so that the door opens when the pressure switch is pressed in the interior? Suggested solution: convert 12v to 3v (how?), clamp to the battery contacts of the handheld transmitter and press the button to open permanently there? (sounds very amateurish) Thank you for your help. I’m sure you can do anything about this. how better and easy to solve! LG

Hello everyone! Unfortunately something quite stupid happened to me at my car. This October I changed the track rod head, axial joint and steering cuff. By chance it happened yesterday that a steering cuff broke off. Of course I got really angry about myself. But I’m to blame. Now my question. Is it enough to reattach the cuff or does it have to be a new cuff? It’s not damaged. It’s just loose. or doesn’t do anything anyway? Thanks already for your help, dear greetings qwertzmax

Hello experts ! I have a problem with my factory built-in ( so NOT refitted) Webasto heater Thermo Top C ( Gasoline ) It needs at least 2 runs to be able to go through. Usually it only works on the 3rd run that it goes. Could with a small readout device over the OBD of my BMW read out a error code.I recognized the following error code : 9B29 The hour goes up without a wheel and runs and heats also about 2-5 minutes. After that it drives ( Audibly) even ” higher and then lowers down again. It then runs there on the middle level still briefly (heats probably less then) and then drives down completely. After that it goes out. I had this scenario today exact again 2 times. At 3 times it then ran through completely and correctly. Do you know what this error message means ? What cause could this have ? Thanks to you !! Greetings… uwe

Hello everybody, I have a very stupid question. I know that I’m about to reap ridicule and hem but I doubt my mind right now. I wanted to check the oil level with my car (MB C220 CDI T-Modell, Br. 204). I put the car on a supposedly flat surface. With repeated control of the oil measuring rod, I found with horror that the oil level is about 4-5 mm above max. (cold and warm measured). g the oil level at just below Max., as it should be (at the test the car was about half a meter further behind, i.e. the front wheels a little higher)). I could not really believe the result, so that I put a 1 m long water level next to the car on the ground. This showed me that on the front third of the vehicle there is a slope of about 1-2 cm to the front. That can hardly be seen with the naked eye! Now I ask myself all the serious things, o b this gradient is sufficient that the oil level cannot be reliably read, so that it is too high around the described 4-5 mm. Does anyone have similar experiences?

Hello experts, at our Corsa the steering head bearings were renewed. The small workshop (my trust) does not have a measuring device itself, so it went to another workshop, where it was claimed that the tyres had expired too differently to adjust the track. What has the wear of the tyres for an influence on the measurement at the track setting? M.E. is measured here on the rims. And up to a maximum of 1.5mm difference in the profile depth can not be in the stand influence the axis geometry? Or is additionally measured on a roller test bench? I can imagine an influence. I am only concerned with the setting. The workshop “with these tires” did not want to make any lane adjustment. Greetings and thanks for expert advice Michael

I called today in the workshop to ask for heating for my Audi A4 B8 Avant 2.0TDI. I actually wanted to have the Evo5 Plus, but I was told that it only works in the partial load or full load range. The normal Evo5 supposedly regulates itself individually and adapts to the requirements, thus being more efficient and at the same time more economical. I’m not quite sure which one to take now, according to the homepage of Webasto reads the m.M.n. but quite different:Wori n is the difference between a Thermo Top Evo 5 and a Thermo Top Evo 5+? Both models heat with an output of 5.0 kW. Due to the optimized control of the coolant circuit, the Thermo Top 5+ results in a significantly improved heat input in the passenger interior and thus an increase of up to 30%! With a Thermo Top 5+, your customers enjoy the pleasant heat much faster than with a Thermo Top 5! ps I would be grateful.