Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, at Autodirekt bought a hydraulic pump for my vehicle. According to the website this pump should fit (car, model, engine and year of construction all correctly entered). For this payment about 90 Euro plus 90 Euro deposit about. Now the part did not fit and I had to buy another hydraulic pump. Now I wanted to return the unused new part, but was unfortunately already over the 14 days right of return, when my mechanic and I realized that it did not fit. e declined because over the 14 days over, Kulanz rejected, because the part is bought too little. Now I wanted to have the deposit for a hydraulic pump back. That was rejected. Without return of an old part, there is no deposit back. I wanted to ask now if this is so correct, or if they are actually obliged to admit to me the deposit back, if they send me a wrong part and don’t want to take it back any more.

Hello Have seen a groupon deal for a large inspection for 140euro instead of 500euro according to manufacturer specification. For me, according to manufacturer specification, this would have to be changed depending on running performance or age, even then the diesel filter etc.. Here are the details Size inspection after manufacturer specification including related materials Highlights : Car inspection according to model-specific manufacturer specifications in the checkbook including oil and oil filter change and test drive Small passenger car inspection Dau he: 2 hours -control, lighting, signaling and airbag inspection -disc headlight setting (incl. auxiliary headlights) check, correct -check steering and ignition lock -disk wiper, windscreen washing system, -disc headlight washing system test -refrigerant level, check antifreeze, correct, freeze protection temperature in the service booklet -check water-conducting hoses for tightness and firm seatBattery pole clamps for fixed seat -check rib belt inspection -motor oil Change engine oil filter (oil type: 5W30/5W40/10W40)Brand oil of the big manufacturers Oil change up to 5l over 5l at extra charge on site -wheel suspension and suspension front and rear -brake lines, brake pressure hoses, fuel lines and exhaust system check -External body, underbody corrosion protection check, notice damage in the service book -fixed parking brake, front and rear brake check engine, transmission (AT, MT), air compressor for tightness check -folding bellows of the L Detach wheel attachment, tighten with torque -Tyre air pressure (incl. spare wheel or tyre filling system) check, correct -First aid box, check warning vest -Test test -Final check: steering and ignition lock, instruments and control lights, brake system, steering, air conditioning, engine, body and chassis check -Reset service interval indicator -Other manufacturer specifications after check booklet (under an additional services for the large passenger car inspection Duration of the large inspection: 4 hours – change air filter – door brake, hood closure, back wall flap hinges lubricate -brake fluid change – further manufacturer data according to check book (among other kilometers depending) The inspections include all model-specific points specified by the manufacturer in the check book. had called now and they think that only that is what is in the description, i.e. no change of the diesel filter or the internal space filter specified by the manufacturer.. How do you see the model-specific points specified by the info manufacturer?

Hello, yes, I know, a lot has been written about this topic. That’s why I don’t have an overview anymore. In old threads you read again and again that “heated garages” are the safe rust death for cars made of steel sheet. From my point of view not quite understandable. Of course: oxygen and moisture accelerate the corrosion of iron. Heat can probably accelerate this effect somewhat. While “heat” is not comparable to “heat”. The kind of corrosion, which e.g. in acidic (such as road salt) and water accelerate corrosion. This can probably be regarded as safe, as I understand it. Now you read over and over again that it is more harmful to store your car in the garage in winter. In particular, a garage in which a higher temperature than outside prevails is rust-promoting. Heated garages are worst. Does anyone here know about this? I mean ECHT idea, not just hearsay half-knowledge (sorry …)? From my point of view, these prejudices have to be considered: – A higher temperature reduces relative humidity – the air binds more water, thus becomes “dryer”, there is less condensation, which can settle down as water on the sheet. – In a tempered garage there are lower temperature fluctuations. The temperature fluctuations due to the climate changes during the day ensure that the air condensate settles when the air cools at night. It is found on the cars in the morning. But in the invisible cavities the condensation water accumulates the same way. More water = more rust, right? – In the frosty season there is a double effect: in the evening the air cools down, so that water condenses on the sheet metal. Then the temperature drops outside below zero degrees, and the water freezes to ice, which expands thereby and micro cracks in the rust protection layer (lacquer ;-)) expands and deepens, so that more naked sheet metal to the verf all is revealed … As far as my theory … So it would definitely be smarter to put a car in a warm garage especially in winter and not in the carport, which is often propagated as a top solution. Do I miss something? I’m curious what the “rust professionals” say about it …

I’ve had my battery tested, because start/stop has been switched off by the battery management, the battery is 5 years old and I’m about to go to relatively lonely areas (Northern countries) and can’t use any start problems. The workshop said that the battery is completely ok, I don’t have to worry…. But if I look at the protocol (see installation), I find the status already borderline or how do you see it?

Moin people, on my 116i 2009 N43B20 the control chain was to be changed. Costs according to KVA 600€, then according to the call it should suddenly cost just over 1000€. Today I was called and said the car was finished. There was first told me the engine had run out during the test drive and now is stuck and would cause me further costs, because they have to take the engine apart now. The engine was in a 1a condition, only the chain was slightly hung, was also I wonder what they have done, that the engine is completely fixed. They claim that the 5W40 engine oil used is to blame, or that fine plastic residues from the old sliding rails of the control chain could have blocked the oil channels. What can I do now? Do I have to sue them? Do I have to sue the Rech to pay for the tax chain of over €1,000?

Hello, it’s not about a car, but about a child car with 12V drive. The following circuit: battery > 15A fuse > switch on > control board > motors. The plug, which connects the switch on and the control board, was always very hot in operation, the plaque was even slightly melted on. The car drove however always without problems as long as the juice was still in the battery. I replaced the plug now with 2 through connector WAGOs with lever to clamp. Otherwise wu Now it is the case that the box runs completely normal for about 1 min, but then or as soon as it gets heavy load (uphill etc.), the 15 ampere fuse burns through the battery. That is, there would suddenly have to be more current/ampere flow but where do they come from, if nothing else has been changed? Only less energy is converted into heat, since the WAGOs remain cold.

Hello together, I would like to ask you if you have problems with the air conditioning in the car. With me it is like this. When I switch on the climate comes out of the air jets in the inside room between 7 and 8 degrees, therefore it does not get ice cold in the inside room, and therefore has to run the plants full pull. Last year for this reason I let the climate wait and feel fresh. The climate works but with cooling power I am not so very satisfied. How is it with you so. Thank you very much.

Under the steering wheel – parts of the center console parts of the side lining glove compartment and so on. 1.) which color fits best to the existing “grey” swan between beige – black – anthracite 2.) it is hard to relate such a thing – stick ? Has anyone already made experience with it ?

Good evening, do I come with a Nissan Primera P12 Traveller 1.8 petroler over the TÜV despite engine warning light with the error message: Lambda probe measures wrong values? Actually, the exhaust gas values are in the green area. Now, however, I have read that under certain conditions at HU the actual values are not measured, but the on-board computer is surveyed. And if this indicates an error in the exhaust gas recovery, no new TÜV is to be expected. ? Bzw when is actually measured and when are they only read out? Mfg, Mike

Hello together, I wanted to change the license plate holder at my car today. So corresponding license plate numbers out, (4) screws screwed out of the holder and then tried to remove the holder. The latter did not work, because the license plate holder was still held at 4 points by strange plastic clips. These clips can be found both at the front and back of the license plate holder and sit bomb-proof. I don’t have the slightest idea what these holders are and before a Google and Youtube didn’t help me, because I couldn’t find anything where someone had a similar attachment. Also a buddy who works in a workshop was baffled. It’s round plastic clips with round recess in the middle and it looks like there’s a screw in the middle that was cut off. It’s hard to explain, I hope the pictures bring it over well. Has anyone ever seen something like that and if you can’t explain it, it’s not easy. yes, what is the correct way to solve this?