Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello community, I bought for the Ford Ka Ru8 a cheap end pot of car parts24 for 27€ with mounting material incl. shipping. (Please don’t teach me. It’s clear to me that it’s not much good. Through the Tüv the car should come and then to the car purchase!) Since I’ve never driven with a non-original end pot to HU/AU a short question: Can there be problems if there is no ABE for the end pot if the end pot looks like the original one? The exhaust is explicit: not extra wrong, without sport also not “mega”-cool with annoying sound. But 1:1 like the original end pot (only not original). Do you mean the Tüv mienst? I also struggled with the SuFu, but that has always affected sport tuning pipes that are not like the original. Thank you! Lukas

Moin, I’ve been having a new (rather cheap) brake system for a few months, where there were very big problems with a certain squeak. Today we found the problem. One of the plates on my brake lining was bent and rusted. So we solved the plate and my father thinks it’s no problem without driving. But he’s not sure for himself whether this is really no problem. So the question here: Can you use the plate without the plate? Greetings?

Hello! I’m looking for a reasonable online spare part shop! I’ve been bestsellt at pkwteile.de, but the processing times and response times on e-mails are not acceptable to me. Then I want to exchange something and then I was answered only after 4 days and 2 e-mails. Then I came across autoteiledirekt.de only to determine that my customer account of pkwteile is also automatically that of autoteiledirekt! De facto is that one and the same dealer with two different iden Online Shops which is a bit dubious to me. am now still on parts2go.de and teilhaber.de found, what can you report about it? Bzw. can someone recommend me a shop where he has had good experiences?? Thank you already. MfG

Hi, I hope I’m in the right forum with my question: I drive a Ford Focus MK 4 tournament St-Line. As temperatures rise, the problem comes back from last year and that I had suppressed: For me the seats are very sweaty. 20 degrees and 20 minutes drive and already the back is wet…. So extremely I knew this so far with no other car. An emergency aid is a towel over the seat but that slips and looks a bit stupid. Thank you for your tips

Hi guys, has anyone had any experience with the new burners from Osram with 6000k? Is it worth changing from 5500k to 6000k? More bluish would be great! There was once the “Hyper blue 66140CHB” from Osram with the ultimate blue stitch, insert a picture. But how it looks, you can’t buy it anymore. Very bad … Or do you have an inside tip in terms of 6000k and bluish light? Best regards

When I ride my A3 1.9 TDi with 130 Ps at such 190 km/h on the train then I am in the 6th gear so on almost 3200 revolutions/minute. From 5000 my car is in the red area. Let’s assume that I drive like this for an hour. (Of course only when the engine is really warm ). Is that bad for the car ? ( Mileage:345.000 but much has been renewed recently and still runs super without problems)

Hello, have a question for you. A good friend of mine has a Mazda 3 with 165 hp in the Sportsline+ version. This is a sucker. Now he wants to install a complete system (exhaust) so that the sound sounds a bit more nurturing and sporty. My question is now only, can you hear anything at all with a sucker? The question is perhaps stupid, but can it be that the Mazda has very little power due to the missing turbo and thus does not give anything in terms of sound technology. You like to hack me if the question is stupid

Hi, I know there are already some threads with the title, but I still have a question: For sound absorption either foam or nonwoven is used. Does this fleece (e.g. interior insulation by ADMS) have any special properties or can instead also ordinary, needleed padding be used successfully (has pretty much the same technical characteristics).

Hello guys. I drive a Seven replica from the 80s, which I bought last winter. Unfortunately I did not take care that the car also corresponds to the papers. In clear text: in the papers there is a 1.8Ltr OHC, but is installed a 2.0Ltr OHC and the carburettor is not registered either. The last TÜV examiner must have forgotten his glasses on the day of the test. After all, on the engine block is fat “2.0” on it … In spring the next TÜV test is on and the chances, d As I get a badge again, I think it’s rather bad. So I can’t get around a single take-off and transfer, even if it’s painful. So I’m prepared to do this in winter. The bigger engine with Weber would have to be in itself. Worrying about the brakes. After all I can see, the brakes and axles are from a Ford Sierra (front disks, rear drums). The Seven is currently registered with something about 80hp, engine and Verga The Sierra is available with the 2.0Ltr OHC and 100hp and the Sierra is much heavier than my Seven. I have also heard that the TÜV only requires larger brakes if the car is either faster or heavier. It will not be faster, because the 1.8Ltr and the 2.0 OHC turn the same high and the weight does not change because of the engine. Does anyone know and can tell me if I still need bigger brakes?

Hello, I would like to open an old topic again, because I am convinced of the principle itself. Our cars (especially the petrol engines) consume a lot of fuel with a cold engine. The idea of a heat storage tank is still attractive: – You store the heat in a medium and retrieve it the next cold morning. In the past a salt was probably used, which destroyed the engine. This is probably not done now. Nevertheless, it is quiet about the topic. The car manufacturers are also researching the topic because, unlike the heater, no additional energy is consumed. Nevertheless, I wanted to ask you if you know SERIÖSE companies that offer such a system…