Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello friends, on my VW Polo, built in 2010, 1.4l, 86 hp, km stand 35000, the third ignition coil has already failed. Can you perhaps tell me if this is a weak point of the VW gasoline engines? And if so, what is it all about that so often? Have you asked one of my work colleagues, who drives a VW Golf V. also with him two ignition coils have already been renewed. Do other manufacturers have to fight with it too? Or is this again a consequence of the so often z Is it necessary to save money at VW? Thank you for your answers.

Hello, as far as I know, a battery is installed ex factory which is just enough. If you buy a new battery, the one no. should be bigger. It’s up to now: 590A 60Ah 12V I would like to buy a Banner Power Bull (for tests always at the front with it, or test winner).What does it mean a no. bigger? The A or the Ah? Power Bull is available with: P6069: 480A / 60Ah P6219: 540A / 62Ah P7029: 570A / 70Ah P7209: 660A / 72Ah Is the P6219 (540A / 62Ah) or the P720 9 (660A / 72Ah) a number bigger? Or which one should I buy? (Car is a Ford Focus 1.6 automatic Ghia (full equipment, so many electric consumers) Thank you.

Hello need simple explanations :-). I want to know what the amount of fuel injection is determined by the diesel (sensors etc.) I have been looking for about a week on the internet and don’t come to the answer that I want or is usable. Always read that a diesel lean runs because it has air surplus. That may be true, but there is a point. There are so many sensors on the engine why (should) a diesel lean run? With a petrol engine a lean run is bad for the long run. n engine is too hot because the exhaust gas is too hot. Does that mean a diesel doesn’t matter? don’t think. And if a diesel is too lean it wouldn’t be soot, would it? I don’t understand even if an old diesel doesn’t have a lambda probe it doesn’t have to run thin. The sensors determine the values of speed, air mass, etc. and the control unit adjusts the injection amount to the air supply and so you wouldn’t have a lean run (even in the partial load range) or? Please don’t copy anything since I’m looking at this. r already read if it’s on the internet :-D. Lg xorgx

Yesterday H4 lamps replaced. Now a headlight adjustment (height) is necessary, since the piston of one of the old lamps sat obliquely on the plate (production error or workshop mess during installation?) and the headlight was probably adjusted to suit this “sloped” lamp. Vlt. also the previous owner murmured the lamp in? The height adjustment made no sound today. I tried it again at the height adjustment screw, after I had the headlights over the St illmotoren, i.e. setting “Vehicle fully loaded”, completely shut down. Also in this reflector position I can turn the adjustment screw without results. On the other headlight the (also) smooth adjustment screw behaves exactly like this. I am surprised that this is the case with both headlights. Does anyone have an idea? Thank you in advance!

For the time being, this seems to be a simple task. Some promise start-up aid via the “cigarette lighter”…3-digit currents via a fuse that appeals to 10Ampere??? There are many products in all price ranges that are priced as “egging wool milk sow”. I want to start either a 2.5l petrol (subaru) without battery monitoring or a 2.0 petrol with battery monitoring (Skoda MJ 2020) in case of an emergency n. Practicality / functionality is more important to me than the price. What can you recommend to me???

Dear MotorTalk friends, on a given occasion, exchanging the Elko in the comfort control unit a VW-Lupo 3L, I then looked for the topic “repair-friendliness” in the forums. To my greatest astonishment there is no this topic. What moves a car owner probably more than the costs that arise to him after the purchase of his desired vehicle in particular with increasing use duration. He quite accepts that no technology holds forever. However, the main cost drivers are the manufacturers first of all. They are only interested in a slim production, i.e. how the individual parts can be easily and time-savingly inserted one after the other during assembly on the belt. Thus, components, such as the above mentioned comfort control unit, are inserted at a time when the entire dashboard has not yet been installed. The man in the workshop is not interested at all in how much work and time he has to install and install this component. He should be forced to repair his own crap in a workshop for at least a year, then his construction would look quite different. Then, for example, all electronic components would be grouped together in a well-accessible place, in order to get them inside a workshop. r Minute to replace, instead of at least one hour for disassembly and reassembly of the half dashboard. Possibly with the inclusion of an additional weight of 500gr copper cable, but better without some unnecessary gimmiks. This also applies to ‘zig other components on the vehicle. Therefore, especially with the increasing complexity of today’s motor vehicles, the main argument for the positive or negative evaluation of a brand would be its repairability. My suggestion: create a forum point for repairability, evaluate the three most repair-friendly brands with, for example, 3 to a strawberry(s), and all the following with 1 to 6 lemon(s). The repairability must become relevant in the awareness of the car owners, perhaps then the manufacturers will finally wake up.

Hello together! Since my brakes on the new vehicle are currently warped, after just 3500 kilometers, although I have followed the rules among others, I allowed myself to load here for discussion. How can one avoid a pulling of the brake discs, if one already adheres to the following “rules”: – defensive driving – gentle driving – no “permanent” braking (permanent pedal pressure) – usage of the motor braking effect, keyword downhill driving (passes) – avoidance of Full braking – not like driving on a “racing track” – not driving through a puddle with strained brakes / washing road! Why does it happen every now and then that brake discs are warped – and usually then a few months later are exchanged again? Is it really due to the quality of the brake discs or are they often application errors? What can you do about it, how can you avoid it? Are there really good brake discs that hold “long” or is this all just marketing technical sales argument? Keyword: heat treated brake discs. Is there the ultimate super manufacturer in which such a thing does not occur?

For the time being, I didn’t know where the theme would fit best, so I’m sorry if it’s not in the right place. Now to my question: The Hyundai i30 N should probably be the loudest car from work, but now I ask myself if I want to compare the sound with an e.g. Rs5 and look at the DB volume on the sheet then there is no real difference in the driving noise?! So actually an Rs5 to an i30 N is equal loud or ?? Except of the standing noise. So again briefly and concisely: Can you say that an i30 N vs is a Rs5 louder while driving or not? Since on the sheet are the same DB data. Another nice evening Lg

Hi, in the last 38 years I’ve had various Opel, Ford, VW and Mercedes vehicles, and in the case of all vehicles without exception, after a vehicle age of about 7 years, the interior fans became noticeable by noises (mostly a whistle). This raises the question of whether components of inferior quality are installed here a) in order to save costs or b) the market for interior fans is so narrow that the few suppliers do not need to deliver quality. and you are closer to the topic and can write something about the causes?

Hello dear community, for all those who are interested in a little craft work or have experience. I’m trying to install a circuit in my old Ibiza (6k) with electric window lifter, which allows me to close the windows via my already upgraded wireless remote control (Waeco MT400). (FB has a third button that is actually for “Comming Home/Abschlendlicht an-for 10 sec.”) Now I thought to myself, would be nice if the windows are down-> I press on the knob pf -> and the windows are going up (should it already be original ) Since I also do not want the windows 10 sec. long I would install a time relay. My problem is that I can connect the line, from the additional control unit to the line of the motor -> only unfortunately I then, due to the switch, the mass is missing. Continuously connect the mass is also not possible. Since the windows would only go up. Does anyone have an idea? PS: Please no comments the d he “overflow” of my venture. I like to build something and would be grateful for tips from experienced people.