Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, on my front-driven car (Volvo V70 II) the front WR with 5mm profile were disposed of because of a tire damage. So I mounted the new WR, as it is written in the textbook, and the former rear to the front. So I am currently at the front 6.5mm and rear new. All Conti WinterContact 205/55/R16. Now I had yesterday in a snow drift (~20 cm) and on a not cleared climb quite to “feel”. the VR sank at some point, couldn’t climb the snow wedge any more and went crazy. Now my question: Would it make sense to take the new ones forward? Would 1.5 mm make that much difference? Or was I just already in areas where one would have needed chain? And if I were to do so: Would the track guide at the rear with 1.5 mm less be so much worse that it would be a risk on the AB? What also occurred to me: If I had the new Take it forward, then the sentence would be better worn out overall than if I drove down the worse ones in the front… As I said, we’re not talking about 3mm / 8mm, the thing would be clear anyway, but of 6.5mm / 8mm. I know, crystal ball, but how is your assessment? Am, as far as this is concerned, still without experience values… mfg, pgs

Hi, on my i30 Coupé, which is not even a year old, 3 heating wires in the rear window do not go. This is the second, third and fourth from below. This is of course a stupid place, because this brings with it 2 problems: The already bad view in the Coupé through the rear window is already strongly impaired, if 3 connected wires do not go. There is then a rather wide beam in it, which remains icy. Moreover, exactly in the area the wiper rubber lies on The error can be clearly seen: the conductor tracks are broken, quite wide (about 10 cm), and exactly centered, exactly above each other. You can see exactly how the conductive metal has “broken off”. For me, this is a clear material defect when the conductor tracks are broken so symmetrically to each other and the material is simply detached from the disc. 5 years of Hyundai warranty on the ass, they don’t exchange the disc. The master in the Workshop said that this would look like a scraper scratched over it. Sure, I scrape the inside of the heating wires ice even in winter. Anyway, they don’t want to change the disc, because they fear that they would stay on the cost when the disc is sent to Hyundai and the guarantee is rejected. That’s why I wanted to repair the heating wires with lead silver now, should be quite easy. It can’t get worse anyway, and bad should look Even if there is a color difference in the glass at the end, you don’t see it from the outside through the tinted glass. How this works in itself is already clear to me, however, I wanted to ask if one of you has ever done this before and can share experiences with me. I would be particularly interested in two questions: – Is lead silver only suitable for minor interruptions or does it work reliably and long-term even in the event of long interruptions? Are about 10 cm. – Can someone recommend me a good product with which he has already gained experience? May also be a bit more expensive, I want it to work in the long term and not to be interrupted after a few months.

Hello, how do you calculate the speed, which you have to apply for a slip of 20 – 25 % in order to get the maximum acceleration? If I want to calculate this via the slip formula, I can’t get past the vehicle speed (but this is unfortunately at the moment of standstill 0) and thus the wheel speed goes against infinite. Thank you for your help!

Hello, I’m repairing the circuit of my converter bridge coupling and have a question to our electrical professionals: Defect is a relay which switches over the brake light switch and then releases the circuit for the solenoid valve of the converter bridge via a vacuum and a thermo switch. According to the circuit diagram, a diode and 2 resistors are now installed in the relay (see section below) which probably serve as a protective circuit against overvoltage. Is it no longer available, can I simply use a universal relay like this one which fits from the connections or do I have to reckon with damages? Greetings The scrap metal fanatic

Hello, for a few days sometimes in the cockpit the brake warning lamp light up at times with the ABS and TMC lamps. A few moments before or sometimes after the radio goes off. If the windscreen wiper is at this time at interval, the interval also works, but the wiper speed is at max. Otherwise the car drives perfectly. The brakes are also as easy as before. Then I tested the ABS on sand/grass. The ABS is not working. Hm… so far so bad. Brake fluid is short under the max mark and the brake pads are also ok. Since these errors the CD player no longer works. Only funny noises come out. Now I do not want to drive to my Hyundai workshop for cost reasons. They have an hourly rate of over 100 euros (debugging included). In my current situation I can use the brake system. The car is a Hyundai XG30, built in 2001 and has only about 73Tkm down. Is still perfectly fine and has had nothing but wear and tear. Is there someone from Berlin who can help me or give me advice? LG and best thanks Fellmann

On Youtube there are quite a few videos of autorepairs. They are made almost exclusively by people who obviously have no idea what they are doing. What I wonder, why do these people put such videos in??? Example: The video looked at 22,000 people, 63 liked it, 3 thought it was bad.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCN0L5_0N5Y A guide how not to do it 😉

Hello guys… I’ve been having a problem for a long time, which is not to get under control. It’s not sooo tragic but sometimes it just bugs me… until 110km/h everything is ok… from then it starts to vibrate in the steering wheel… in the range of 120-140 it is the strongest… at 150 it leaves after… from 160 it has completely disappeared to beyond 200km/h… Mounted are 17″ rims of ICW with matching centrings… All tires have been multi-specified or tested. since there was nothing left to beat (in different plants!). Changed from rear to front… new tyres… everything did not improve. Track was also set, cathedral bearings or roller bearings I had changed a few months ago, Stabis are new… Brake discs/covers are new… I really don’t know what to do anymore… especially because it is only there in the range 120-140km/h and disappears completely below or above. Usually, however, I ride on the A utobahn in this area daily 50km (2x) into the work… That vibrating is also not constant… I have the assumption that it is related to the road… is the track from many plates it vibrates more strongly than e.g. on level tar. Once long drawn left or right curves come and I steer something in this direction is also the vibrating away! Does there have an idea?

Today I read by chance on the Internet that if the particle filter is closed, you don’t have to replace it. You can buy a cleaning agent and spray it into the particle filter via the opening of the temperature sensor. And then drive a distance over the highway. 95% of this cleaning should clean the particle filter again. There are also companies that carry out such a cleaning. Click here for more information: Quotation: Especially by frequent shorts This is due to the fact that the required temperature is not reached for self-cleaning. As a rule, the filter has to be replaced with a new one. In the meantime, however, there is also the possibility to clean the particle filter.How to clean a particle filter Greeting Gero

Hello together, I have often asked myself the following questions about the air conditioning system, which in particular concern dehumidification in case of foggy windows:1. Dehumidification in winter It is well known that the air conditioning systems do not work below 4 degrees due to the protection function (wg. freezing?). As is well known, however, the windows fog the most especially in winter. Therefore, it does bring something to dehumidify the air conditioning system below 4 degrees or to counteract the foggy windows. 2. Switching the air conditioning over 4 degrees and driving into the cold How does it look if you turn on the air conditioning at over 4 degrees (e.g. in the underground garage) and let it run for some time (low garage is a rather bad example here) and then shortly afterwards the ambient temperature is below 0 degrees? – Do you have to worry about this or should you avoid such actions? Finally, it’s about whether you can switch on the air conditioning at any time without any damage or whether you can switch on the air conditioning system? should make a few thoughts about the ambient temperature? Actually, a warm engine would have to give enough waste heat, so that nothing can freeze there, on the other hand, the vehicles are specially designed so that cool air comes in.3. Dehumidification with defective air conditioning Especially with old cars it is more the rule instead of the exception that the air conditioning is no longer possible. Mostly it is leaking somewhere, so that the refrigerant does not remain inside. r Air conditioning without refrigerants still dehumidification? What about other defects of the climate? Are there, for example, defects in which the cooling no longer works, but also dehumidification?4. Switch on the climate in winter to “oil” the air conditioning system or similar. This question may coincide with the above questions. It always means that the air conditioning should be switched on regularly, so that the refrigerant gets everywhere, which at the same time would have a kind of oiling function or similar. e. But now it is the case that in severe winters (like the last one) it sometimes does not get warm over 0 or 4 degrees for weeks. Should one turn on the air conditioning nevertheless or does this bring something in terms of “oiling” or should one avoid switching it on? For your answers already thank you!

Hi, I’m thinking about buying a roof box for my Touran railing carrier. I’m now wondering how big the differences between the individual systems are. I know that fixing one of the main differences is. But assuming the carrier has a good fixing system, how big is the difference between Thule Wingbar, which is supposed to be very aerodynamic, and a simple Thule SquareBar, which is just simple 4-edge steel. manufacturers offer simple steel beams, but also aluminum beams that are mostly aerodynamically somewhat optmized. As said, the extra charge for beautiful aluminium beams is purely from the function? Are they quieter in comparison and consume less fuel, so that you really notice it? You can argue about the optics, but this plays no role for me in the question. Greeting Joker