Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I know that there are certainly already many topics on this topic. However, I could not find anything for my “special” case. The following problem: I bought a new tooth and belt for my car (18 years old, 106,000 km) and had it done in a workshop. Unfortunately, the car does not drive as before when starting and generally in the lower speed range (up to 2,500) the car does not get the power on the road. When I step through the gas I hear that the engine is getting “loud” and the speed is also slowly going up … but before it was definitely much more splashy. Starting with passing wheels is definitely no longer possible (not that I would do that otherwise, just as an example) Also on the highway. Tempo 100 in the 5th gear and it accelerates like a turtle. Didn’t want to drive faster than 100 now before I know what really is with the cart. So I’ll be right there. I was told that this was also noticed during the test drive and that my clutch is probably over (it slips through). The question whether it might come from the new timing belt was denied. It was probably all installed correctly and “set up?”. Now I trust my workshop and I don’t want to subdue them by any means now. I just want to hear the opinion/experience of a few other people on this topic before ic h again 500 euro put into a car which is not 1000 more value …. What do you think ? Can this problem really come from a defective clutch ?

Hello, if you have the battery tested before the winter time in an x of any workshop, you are always asked if there are problems or how old the car and/or the battery is. Then a friendly employee comes, usually without any waiting time and plugs in a device, which probably measures the voltage under load. What comes out of it, you can recognize as layman bad or can hardly interpret it. Am I there a scum, if I think that if you answer the questions always need a new battery?

Moin ihr Harry Potters der Fahrzeugtechnik. I hope that I am here at all right in the forum. Do you see a cost-effective way to keep my focus (Kombi, year 11/02) cool during the summer while standing/parking? To let the engine and climate run out rather. Background: At the dog’s place I have to leave the dog unfortunately in the car some time in the summer. Earlier in the forest this was less a problem, but at the new place there is no forest. The windows can of course stay half open, with Be I’m still trying to avoid heating up the car. But I’d like to know if I could cool the car in addition. Do you have any ideas that ignite? And please don’t discuss it: Dog quickly gets hot, car becomes an oven, etc. That’s all I know, therefore my questions. Our dogs (at least in these places) are not slaves of our ego, with us the health of the dog is in the foreground. If I don’t create optimal conditions for the dog in the car, drive wi r just not to the place. But if there was the possibility, e.g. to create a cooling via an additional battery, this would be supi-dupi. Although the cooling should also be regulated, because I can hardly send the dog out of a car of 19° outside with 35°. I hope for many dog owners with ideas.

Hello municipality brought my 4.0 at the beginning of April for inspection. Car has only 39000 on the clock. It had to be done a very large inspection with TÜV ..should cost around the 1000 Euro. because all oils etc should be exchanged candles etc. I had to be beaten wide. The Tüv allegedly criticized the rear brake discs. I got persuaded to exchange these also, I Dämel. The whole fun afterwards cost me with car rental 1480 Euro. Since then I have been yesterday then the Super Gau. With wife and child made excursion. after 50 km we take a smell was as if someone with the Flex Metal cut through. At the finish I see already, smoke at the back to the right rise. Car raised rim extremely hot wheel could hardly be moved. Workshop called and described the thing. I should not drive any further. The ADAC brought the car today into the workshop. Gerdae calls me the workshop at m for safety reasons left and right. I am almost freaked out on the phone after I was told the costs of course I have to bear, such something can happen and has nothing to do with the exchange of the windows. Repair costs again at least 300 euros. I could just go into the air. On my note that I have hardly moved the car since the inspection, the lappidare answer. I can also pick it up like that costs would definitely not be taken over, the error would not come from the disc change. What am I doing now? I could get angry with the discs at the mileage at all have been changed. Take off, but I am not a mechanic.

Hello, I have here an advertisement of Air-Tec (www.air-tec-systems.com) which promises 10 % fuel savings (and other nice effects) what do you think of such electronic components ? is the waste of money or does that really bring what ? have you made experience with it ? to the mechanics/mechatronicians: is this theoretically possible ? do you know other, comparable systems ? Thank you for your opinions Kone

Hello, at speeds from approx. 70 km/h I have a loud, dry rolling noise while driving straight. In left turns nothing changes, in right turns it becomes quieter. Now I have the car in front, started and let the wheels blow. No noise. When rolling out on the bucks first the right wheel stops, without noises. After that the left wheel comes to a stop. But shortly before stop a audible rumor occurs. I am pretty sure that the noises ache is a wheel bearing. But how can I determine for sure which one it is?

Hello, with my vehicle a metal flap is torn in the trunk, which should actually be connected to the rest of the bodywork. I think this has to be welded. Can someone tell me how much the effort will be about this? Do I go with it to the bodywork builder? Thank you!

Hello together. I have already asked in the Insignia Forum but hope to get some answers here. I have to change my brake calipers in the back soon due to defective cuffs. My Insignia has the electric parking brake – is there something specific to consider when changing? Do I just have to “release” the hand brake before changing (by pressing the switch) and just hang it out and mount it again with the new one or are there any problems? whole also just hang out at the rear of the caliper or is special tool necessary? Thank you in advance.

Hello dear forumists. With an unsynchronized transmission such as oldtimer tractors or trucks, you have to give intermediate gas when looking down to bring the gear pairs up to speed, so that they can interlock. It works quite correctly when switching down(!) so: uncouple – idle – plug in – intermediate gas (can possibly take quite a while with the single cylinder engine with high momentum mass – uncouple, insert lower gear – plug in – Today’s gearboxes make this procedure unnecessary and yet it is often given intermediate gas, even if in the “light” version, i.e. without the re-coupling in the idle mode, which one saves itself. Importantly, the accompanying gas shock appears when gear changes down. NEXTly this is not, although one might have the feeling that the gears snap a little softer. My question refers to an observation of some truck – bus – and small truck drivers. They give between GAS IN HIGHER EDUCATION, something that is totally unnecessary, actually hindrance to a good change of gear. Why are they doing this? The only reason I can think of is that it sounds cool. Or is there something I don’t know?

In my opinion, an exact oil measurement is a bit difficult, but my Mercedes E class E200 (w211) built in 2008 with compressor engine to have determined an oil consumption of approx. 0.75 to 1 L on 4000 – 5000 km, regardless of the driving profile whether short or long distance. To me the consumption of an engine that just 5.5 L oil as filling quantity has something high. According to operating instructions 0.75 L on 1000 km are in, but such values write yes The car has always been filled with a 0W40 since the last change with a 5W40 from Liqui Moly, but I mean the Liqui Moly does not produce any bad oils. I like to read this in different forums about a 10W40 with higher oil consumption. Unfortunately, I don’t have any experience with the 0W40 oil because I bought the car with 90,000 km. What are you looking for here? e Opinions of the experts again fill a fully synthetic 0W40 or switch to 10W40? 10W40 I get cheap with my friend and could even prefer the change at the cheap price from 20,000 km to 15,000 km. Greetings and thanks