Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, it’s about the following: I drive a Passat 3B ́98, this one has like many others also a dimmer for the cockpit lighting. it’s a PWM dimmer. the Passat has the red light times LED, sometimes a light bulb. I have installed LED strips in red in the driver and passenger footroom pure to ambient lighting. it also shines nice only a bit too bright. now I want these dimming so that it also fits the brightness of the remaining lighting, it should not dazzle. used LED strips: I bought a 10 meter roll of it some time ago, the length is short and always prepared for 12volts. there are extra make-ups available where you can shorten one. 1x unit consists of 3x SMD LED in red + 1x SMD resistance with the marking 301 per foot space were used two units which are connected parallel to 12V. if I turn the original dimmer down so far until the brightness is in order only scarcely 6Volt on the LED strips. but now it’s so dark that the rest of the lighting is not nice harmonizing. in the net I find plenty of calculator, which calculates with the preresistance of an LED at 12Volt but unfortunately I don’t find a calculation for a resistance that brings me my dimming. I hope you can help me to use what resistance in my case ever footroom.

Read here in the Wolfsburger daily newspaper that VW has chosen a proposal from a Wolfsburger Dipl.Ing. as the idea of the year. For the leak test of the VW model, vacuum is generated in the passenger compartment, the ventilation is placed on circulating air and the classic vehicle parts such as windshield, spray wall in the engine compartment etc. are sprayed dry artificial fog. The leak is then shown where the fog penetrates into the interior. Compared to other analysis methods by means of Ultr aschall or spray water the Rohjahn’s fog method has proven to be more precise, faster and more cost-effective. The time for testing a vehicle has been reduced by 1/5. VW saves with the fog method annually around € 350,000,-. Well, I hope that in the future one can expect from really waterproof VWs, because in the past, I have to say it as a Wolfsburg VW fan unfortunately, that was not always the case!

Hello, I have installed a gearbox in a self-built tractor. Now I don’t know exactly what it is – in another forum I was told, however, that it is a Framo gearbox? Maybe you could help me! Maybe you could give me an exact model or tell me who can help me? Thank you!

Hello, I would be very interested to see how much volts a battery trainer discharges? Can it be that he wants to go down to 12.0 V and still wants to discharge, is that all right? I’ve broken off now, because you actually want to get the battery and not deliberately ruin it. Thank you for every info…. Greetings

Hello all, the days at the TüV and my Mazda MX-5 (NB-FL, year 2001, 146 hp) unfortunately failed due to the following problem: My right longitudinal support is slightly pressed in at one point (just 50cm behind the front axle). The car is slightly lowered and suppose that I got stuck somewhere (e.g. at a gas station “hubble” which is so…). At or at the following link you will find an image:http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_0056zijh0.jpg On the left side you will find: it is a similar place, the TüV has also criticized… But is much less pressed in like the right side (in the picture), … you actually only look at the exact one. Only would my question be if you can repair this and what it costs or can cost? Thanks in advance and best regards AceArcadia

Hi Community! Needed a new rear silencer and had a new one installed today by a (free) master workshop. After I had paid, I just drove from the yard without checking the result. Big make, of course, please no shitstorm, beginner error!!! After I put myself under the car at home, I was very scared: The “new” rear sound damper is heavily scratched and uglyly welded on the pipe. Total perplex I am first to the He said that the free workshop would have tried to remove the paper label – which is completely ok, because the exhaust is getting hot – and the welding seam on the tailpipe is also right. Nevertheless, I would like to ask you for advice: Is it really ok that a rear silencer, which I paid for 220 euros relatively expensive, will be scratched so much in this way??? Can he not (like my old friend) he silencer) rust in a few years due to this unsightly treatment? And is the sweat seam really ok? I’m not a professional, have never really dealt with cars so far – so I ask you many times to write me your honest opinion. Should I complain about the silencer or can I drive around with it for the next 10 years without prbleme? Thank you very much! Best regards Frank

Hello, I had a problem with my MG F 99 yesterday on the way home.I noticed that the car braked by itself.Bin stopped short and looked for the brakes, but did not discover anything. Only the rims were already quite hot, think that the heat from the brake caused that. This morning I looked at leaking liquid. But it seems to be all right. I read: engine off brake pedal you would have to press a few times until the brake inflated and then the engine starts and the brake pedal slows down. With me it is now however, that I can only pump 1x I am immediately at max, but he does less even when I start the engine. Can it be the main brake cylinder? I know remote diagnosis are always difficult but, I would be grateful for every tip Robin

Good day I really need help on a tricky topic for me. I’ve been reading about it for days now but I just don’t get smart! You’re my last hope and hope you can help me on the subject! I have the following plans: I wanted to make a kind of ambient lighting for the doors for my car. I already have everything I need here. But now I still lack a suitable circuit. I plan to equip the ambient lighting with 2 LEDs, one discreet blue and a bright white. And the whole thing should look like this: -door closed, dipped light on, the blue LED light on -deep light on, door opened, blue LED goes out abruptly and the white LED goes off abruptly, so blue 100% on 0% and white 0% on 100% dipped light, door closed, white LED dimmes slowly darker while the blue LED at the same time slowly dimmes to full brightness I hope you can follow my thoughts. I already have a touch n stuff read in the net about PWM dimming etc… but as far as I’m concerned, I’m pretty layman and what is described there is backwards for me like Chinese. It’s all described only for experts, but not for newcomers What I would need would be a list of needed components and a sketch of how the circuit is built up. Soldering is on it. So what the board would need would be an input for +12V, one for mass, one for the signal of the door warning light and 2 outputs for the two LEDs. I am grateful to you for any help and wish you a nice Valentine’s Day MfG Christopher

Hello forum, tonight I apparently accidentally left the light on the car (I recognized by the lever next to the steering wheel). This morning the car didn’t start any more. I then tried to bridge with another battery. Didn’t work. Then I tried to bridge my father’s car. Didn’t work. I also saw that the built-in battery had foam-like fluid coming from a small hose-like opening. Then I got the other battery. I was sure that it still works and the car finally started. But now only the headlights go, in the interior all electronics have failed: disc lifter, interior light, speedometer, clock, radio etc. The only thing that still works is the tank indicator. My workshop is full of stress and can only look at my car more closely at the end of next week. I also signed up for the weekend for two flea markets, already loaded the trailer and the (and other) now everything has to fall into the water, because I can’t drive around like this… I would be very happy if anyone had an idea what to try out.

Hello everybody, I’m not lucky lately, but maybe someone can help me before I have to go to the workshop. On Saturday in my Golf Cabrio 1.6 Tdi EZ 07/11 a heater was retrofitted in the Webasto specialist company. Now the following situations arose: On Saturday I drove home from the workshop (about 1 hour driving time) I then parked the car. The next day I didn’t have to leave, but wanted to try the heater, o b it works with the Thermo Call, they have set only 15 minutes. I then sat in my car after the end of the time, started it normally and also ran, then drove backwards out of the parking space and then suddenly he washed out. One start no longer possible, only a gurgled, but did not jump on. He had disturbed me the symbols for catalyst and generator. Had then light radio etc. everything exhibited and he then jumped after a few times ve I then drove about 45 minutes through the area, then turned it off, this time backwards into the parking space. left it then about 1 hour and then let the heater run for 25 minutes. Down into the car, start without problems and go off also. I then drove again about 45 minutes by car and then put it off. This morning I ran the heater then about 30 minutes. Then start down to the car, again without problems, at the back drive again baff car off and again the 2 symbols displayed. Again trying to start no chance, also not in the first gear. Also not with switched off consumers he has jumped. Now the car stands there, I can not get away anymore, he does not start, he gurgles only, even the attempt if you notice that he then comes to give gas does not work. Is it somehow possible that the stationary heating sucks the battery over night empty, because when he stood only the 1 hour it went. With the It can’t have anything to do with driving backwards. I’m confused now that he’s never had that before, only since the heating has been installed. I’m in despair right now. Or does my car somehow not understand that it’s warm, but the rest isn’t yet? Is there some kind of update? Maybe one of you can help me…