Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I commute 5x a week a distance of 32 km (per day 64 km x 5 = 320 km a week). I drive almost exclusively on the highway (the route is the Uni Bochum to Fernuni Hagen). Auto is an Opel corsa with 60 hp, which still has an old circuit where you have to manually insert the gears by means of a coupling. I pay about 40 euros per week for petrol (once a week the tank is empty and I have to fill up). This seems to me to be quite a lot and I I thought about driving more fuel-saving. Actually, I never drive faster than about 140 km/h. Do you think it makes a difference if, for example, I only ride up the tracks at 90-100 km/h and drive up to a maximum of 130 km/h? Thanks for the lift.

Hello Motortalker have a Opel Signum 2.2 direct BJ. 2004. 228000 and he has run mad oil usage with 5 liters per thousand km.. Often only filled up after 100 km.. Matching Dexos 2 oil not always had… Sometime from 5W30 to 5W40 with expensive oil without Dexos2 release, it ran noticeably softer. Then I had in the hope that even thicker oil improved the thing again a 10W/0 oil of the same brand LiquiMoli filled: After 50 km stutter, engine sign and in the workshop when reading out 3 cylinders. Oil change made, everything out and again Dexos 2 5 W 40 oil pure plus 4 new sparks. After that he ran 40 km all cylinders, only at idle he shakes at the traffic light at 600 revolutions.. In the workshop they then gave in idle 5x full throttle until Visichtbat engine smoked in front and pressed out oil.. It would be engine damage, stops at some point… I then filled up again after 40 km half-liter oil, and now r runs again on all cylinders. Nevertheless, Werkstatt Jungmechaniker thinks that with so much oil consumption the cat can go up to 1000 degrees, burst and burn out the vehicle…..thanks for the conversation.. Now I don’t know if I should move the vehicle on short distances without too much… since the new engine with installation or repairing new piston rings is probably not worth…1000 euros upwards… What do you think? Frank

Hello, my car is just in the workshop. It did not pass the TÜV and a new catalyst had to be installed. In addition, a few other things have to be replaced. Can I ask for the catalyst, among other things, the original invoice regarding warranty and proof, which and that a new catalyst was installed? As I will probably sell the car soon, that would be advantageous if I could prove it. Or can you only get the invoice of the workshop incl. the work and on their work including the newly installed parts there is the guarantee? For the replacement of the catalyst incl. the analysis in advance, 680€ are calculated. Are the costs significantly too high or ok? Greeting Homer

I am currently often thinking about which possibilities would probably arise if a car tyre would always be at operating temperature. Just as a thought experiment, if you always have 80 degrees in the tire, a car should be able to change from the beginning. A car with engine power beyond the 300 KW only on the front axle is, for example, in cold tyres/cold weather/wet road virtually not extendable, even at well over 100 km/h, that should be drastically changed n. Probably the wear would rise significantly or? Some of you really wear much wider tyres (as OEM) for optical reasons (e.g. RWB, Libertywalk etc.) and achieve massively worse lap times, by a very low tire temperature I suppose, would the times to OEM greatly improve? The 0-100 times of each car are also extremely dependent on the temperature in the tire (e.g. New 911 Carrera S 4.6s with cold tyres and 3.6 sbei warm) , if you now if you would always have warm tyres, you should be able to retrieve significantly higher torques and performance even with the same tyre size without having to regulate the car against it. I’m happy about every input on the subject, it just interests me. Stupid comments about this can be kept. If only it would be easy to assess how much the wish would be and what a compromise would be made for it. And that it would need extremely much heat power I can use i well imagine, the cooling by the wind, etc. are certainly not optimal conditions for heating up.

Hello, what does it point out if Lambda and CO are a bit too high? Is a Chrysler 300M 2.7 V6 12/2003 for 10 years with LPG gas system, mileage 223,000km of which about 100,000 on gas. Otherwise find only old contributions to Lambda lower and CO too high but nothing too high. The KATs were checked by endoscope for visible damage, both ok. The certificate shows that the two Vot-Kat probes are ok, right? I understand correctly that Bank 2 with 0.9mV more, Is it also clear that the after-cat probes (monitor probes) are also in order?

In the series Knight Rider is often driven backwards to the road by the driving truck. I assume that the automatic transmission of the car is switched backwards, enough speed is made to drive out. When rolling backwards, it is then switched in Neutral until the car touches the road and then switched into Automatic. How would a modern DSG react here (concrete DQ250)? Until switching in Neutral it is no problem. After that the car has with DQ250 yes pl 80-100 km/h, but the DSG was in reverse and neutral. What happens when you switch to D? Can something break with the DSG? Can it turn off? (In a social circle you get on stupid topics….)

Hello to everyone, this is my first post. Excuse me if I am in the wrong category. Now to my problem: My car battery is empty again. Since the car is not to be used for a little longer, I wanted to charge the battery at my home (Exide 71Ah) with the Einhell CE-BC 4M. If I connect the charger and choose the program 12V hours then I have only 2 bars and the charger shows me only 13,1V. According to my research this is probably too little This was confirmed last night, because I had the battery charged for 10 hours and then found that nothing was happening. I connected the charger to another battery to check it (Exide 95Ah, AGM). According to the charger it is full and the charger shows me 14V or more. My question: How do they get the “empty” battery charged?. I still have a start-up cable lying around with me. Is it possible to charge the two batteries with to connect each other so that the full battery can charge the empty battery?. – If so, how do I have to connect the two batteries – is it enough to connect only the plus poles?. I thank you in advance

Hello, I’m looking for a reason why you can’t mix the two fluids. Can someone just explain or call a page that explains what would happen chemically if you mixed them? MfG Mike

Hello, I hope the topic fits in here. I have been driving a (new) car for 3 years with above-mentioned refrigerants. Now I was thinking about whether to have a climate maintenance. In the past they said every 2 years, which I see as a very short interval when the plant works smoothly. The dealer told me then, at R1234yf the shrinkage by diffusion is lower than at the old plants. Can anyone confirm that? How often do you leave the plant (please only for R1234yf antwor How much was missing? Basically, I wouldn’t mind having a look after three years, but the prices are really happy. Bosch, for example, wants 150 EUR plus 24 EUR per 100g of refrigerant for the service. What is your experience regarding maintenance prices and the loss of refrigerant. Are there any general signs that the system has too little refrigerant or where the signs are missing that there are not too few refrigerants in it? On my previous car, for example, the compressor was heard shouting when the refrigerant had dropped too far. Or when the system was switched on, a hissing noise on the expansion valve, as well as a hissing after the engine was switched off. Are the signs always occurring when there is too little refrigerant?

I mean the engine capacity.What 4cylinders has had most. But only car engines no trucks or tanks,etc…. I’m just interested. THANK YOU.