Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, Ride a 2001 MX-5 1.6, which I bought with a luminous MKL. According to the seller, the previous one was driven with a broken ignition coil for too long, which destroyed the original catalyst. That comes along, is a disease with the model, it always smelled strongly at the traffic light after oldtimer and had the P0420 (and otherwise nothing) in the error memory. Last weekend I changed the cat for a specific part of N*P. According to my understanding actually a ok brand, even if he The smell at the traffic light was done, but after 300 km the MKL went on again yesterday. So just read out again, again (only) P0420. The lambda probe signals look wonderful in idle mode m.M.n. (Fig. 1), at increased speed of about 2500 rpm (Fig. 2/3) no more, since it strikes aftercat probe synchronously with. KGE disconnect, that was always the trick 17 for the AU with my Ex-MX-5 NA, changes it also nix. Long story short, it may be that s o a new cat has to be ‘taken in’, so its effect has to be built up first? Or is the brand new thing from the pack of scrap? Or is there another factor that I just forget? Merci

The car workshop first found that there was no more refrigerant in the plant. However, the system was tight. It was also found that the air-conditioning compressor was not working. I then got an estimate of 780 EUR for the replacement of the air-conditioning compressor. I then took a look at the air-conditioning compressor and found that the clutch on the air-conditioning belt disc was defective:https://youtu. be/IXq3z68EbUk?t=106 After the coupling was changed by me, the air conditioning system is now going again! I went to the workshop again, with the request to finish the air conditioning service completely. After all, I thought that the air conditioning compressor had to run so that the air conditioning could be filled properly. The mechanic then said that they had already refilled refrigerants, and the compressor did not have to run!? What is the real thing? is the system running, or is it even possible with a broken compressor?

Hello have a problem with my Mazda 5 cw diesel.Did yesterday by mistake 9 liters of petrol.When I noticed my mistake I still filled 50 liters of diesel and then drove about 40 km to home. It left me no rest and so I called the Adac and got dragged into my workshop. There they told me to leave the tank, rinse the lead and replace the diesel filter. Now is the weekend and I have to wait until Monday. The workshop said so about 350 euros costs it fun. Can the pump have got something off? Or should I repel the car relatively quickly, plan a new purchase anyway in the next time. But first have the total panic that will be expensive.

I want to get a next car, which has two power-off tanks, each with a pump. I want to be able to switch between two fuels back and forth. The car should be best from the 90s or older. Diesel or petrol engine. That’s the reason I want to drive with a better fuel, but the car starts with a very bad start at the cold start. “The AEX engine only runs when it is already warm. It doesn’t run at the cold start. Only after 30 times of starting attempts came there. nn more and more explosions. When it starts then you have to keep it still with gas, because otherwise the speeds will be lubricated and it will go out.” I tried to drive with the fuel. “That’s why I need an additional tank with petrol to warm up the engine. Two problems: An additional tank has to be registered in the TÜV. That’s why I can only use the additional tank to warm up. If I want to drive, I have to remove it again. (The windscreen wiper water tank as a fuel tank to ve So I need something where I can connect the tank to start and then remove it again. Unfortunately, it’s illegal to keep the engine running warm on public floor. I don’t know how to drive the fuel from the additional tank, because you have to connect it somehow with the accelerator and then you need a gasoline pump.” It’s too cumbersome to install that legally. That’s why I need something that already has.

!!!FOR NO OF THIS MARK I MAKE WORTH!!! ONLY THE CLAR IS!!! Evening, I wanted to convert my license plate lighting to LED. Unfortunately, the car shows me that I should check the license plate lighting. First of all after the order: I got the LED license plate lighting from ABAKUS. Did everything fit nicely and no report from the car. Unfortunately, I had a stadium behind me, which I did not like at all. Then I ordered the LEDs from the brand TYC. I installed them and I was very pleased with the lighting. Unfortunately as already mentioned, I should check the lighting. Can someone say what to do? Data about the vehicle: Seat Leon 5f bj.2012 III 1.4TSI Figure 1: ABAKUS luminaires with cable etc Figure 2: TYC luminaires without cable etc.

Hello, professionals! I want to connect to a rear camera. This camera has to be connected to 12 volts. But now the cable of the camera is as thin as I ask myself how to connect it best. Ideal would be a power thief in my opinion. But with the different cross-sections that is not possible, or what is mine? Is there a better solution?

Hi, drive an Astra K 1.4T petrol engine and got the new Dexos 1 Gen 2 in the inspection today. Instead of 0W40 just now 5W30. What can this oil withstand? My driving profile is very quiet. Drive my car ALWAYS 20km warm before I turn over 3000 rpm and drive always nice cold. On the highway however, there are often speed orgies and like to drive Vmax (220km/h approx. 4100U/min in 6th gear). The 0W40 is suitable for higher temperatures and wanted to know now whether I despite 5W30 lead can continue on foot? Greetings

Hello! How do I recognize with a rear axle with drum brake whether noises come from a defective wheel bearing or the braking system? More specifically: I just have a vehicle here that has to go to HU shortly. I noticed that the rear wheels don’t turn as easily as I know it from other cars. If you step on the brake a few times, it gets a bit better. It’s not a game and there are no noises that point to a defective wheel bearing. Allerd I don’t know if the noise comes from the drum brake or the wheel bearing is defective. It’s the same in both the rear left and the right. I uploaded a video where you can hear the noises. I would be very grateful if you could write me your assessment. How can I make another diagnosis? Does the TÜV care if otherwise the brake values are correct? increased rolling resistance as a defect? What else would be considered serious defects? Thank you in advance!

Hello dear motor-talker.. would have a question to you. I have a 45 Ah battery in my polo. The battery is now three years old. And lately she is a little tired when starting. So I decided to charge the battery with my regulated charger. The charger shows me that the battery is 65 percent charged. If I start the charging process then it is within 10 minutes at 100 percent and the charge is stopped. But then if I try to start she is as tired as before loading me happy about help… Lg Tom

Hello, unfortunately I couldn’t drive my car today. After 14 days of service life it was all about, but while I was heating up the car, the car went out of the snow. It was not possible to start again. The yellow angel called for it analyzed that it was probably a defective alternator. He reactivated it with a hammer, but to do so he advised to visit a workshop as quickly as possible. Since I am new in Darmstadt, the question arises to me, He has given me an address (Elmo Elektronik) which prepares alternators. ( Cost point for installation and upgrading, almost 80 euros). In a seat workshop you pay up to 500 euros for a new machine according to his specification. It is a Seat Ibiza 1.4 (BJ 2007). So far I have only made experiences (change headlight bulb) with a Bosch service in Pfungstadt. On the fact that I myself have a pear I would be very grateful for advice. New or used? Elmo or something else? Greetings ́ Barracuda317