Hello, I have, as the title already says a few short questions. Why are there in the car CAN data lines that are shielded and which would that be? or for which systems is a shield useful/necessary? As far as I know CAN cables are twisted and the opposite voltage course of the line only ensures a “balance” magnetic field.
Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum
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Can the engine draw false air?
Hello, I lit the MKL in my A4 B6 1.6 90tkm, can’t explain why. I had the error deleted and after 40-50KM it started again, when I drove on the bypass road very quiet 70. The Bosch service has the error : P0420 Catalyst System Bank Insufficient effect, this can be very much from air mass meter, throttle valve, false air to the defective KAT. I looked at this today and found the following what the previous owner probably gemac On the first photo it is drawn yellow, it has broken away the nose and so it holds a cable tie was made around it, can it be that by such a minimal a mistake is created and false air is sucked in? On picture 2 it is white made where the part sits, between air mass knife and throttle flap.
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BMW e 36 320 Overheating unclear
Hi, I’m new here and really looking for help. I drive a BMW E 36 320 bj 93 Now I bought the car for the first time on the way back of 200 km the V-belt flown down and the water pump was also quite easy So I renewed water pump and V-belt. Drive a little and remember now the engine is constantly hot 1. New water pump, V-belt, thermostat (cooling water as well as normal water enough on it) 2. Heating does not overheat motor constantly so I keep it 3. He is ventilated, however, the hoses remain cold รบnd are totally bulging and hardly to press.(hard) I would like to know if anyone else has any idea what could be with my baby ๐ especially in winter I need my heating.
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Ctek 7000 does not charge battery in the SL R230
Hello together, have the following problem: my ctek xs 7000 does not charge my battery. It stops at the first stage of the charging cycles and does not pass to the second stage. The charger was at noon today 3h at the battery when I saw that it “hangs”. The charger had become quite warm. I suspended it and connected it to another car battery after a cooling phase. There it works perfectly. Experience shows that the first stage of the charging process will change Depending on the condition of the battery, phase 2 will also be closed a few minutes later and phase 3 will start when the battery is fully charged. To the data: Vehicle: Mercedes SL 350 R230 Battery: Varta AGM Ultra Dynamic 70 Ah (exactly 3 years old) Battery condition: 11.53 Volt before my charging attempt, 11.66 Volt 3h later Charger: Ctek XS 7000 (exactly 3 years old) I was still on the road with the vehicle on Thursday. There were no problems. D Open and close (which pulls the most current) worked perfectly. Have run the radio at an intermediate stop. After a good half hour the message came: “Start motor or Comamnd shuts down in 3 minutes”. It then turned off 3 minutes later. When the engine started then no message of “comfort function turned off”. Just before I arrived at home, a message came in the display: “right flasher bulb defective. Replacement bulb ak Tiv” (or similar). I put the car in the garage and wanted to check for the flasher bulb today. After I switched on the flasher (bulb is not defective) a few seconds later came the message in the display “roll up the rollbar” and dananch “comfort function switched off”. Battery voltage was there at 11,53 volts. Yes and then the Ctek hung on it for 3 hours. What should I keep from it? Why does the Ctek not charge the battery? Should the battery, where I always use the battery? should I try the Recond function of the Ctek? Should the battery be suspended, because then 15.7 volts are created? Should the battery be suspended?
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Run ignition and start using buttons
Hi, I’m upgrading my Golf 3 and I also want to install some of them in the game; i.e. start via buttons. There is also everything for 15โฌ at Ebay and so on. But I also want to run the ignition via a switch, so that the key no longer needs to start. ( Steering wheel lock is removed and please don’t white it because of insurance and TรV etc.) Now I would like to have the function Ignition & Starting run via a button. So: press once button = Ignition on…..activated twice = starter turns, engine starts…. Press button longer = ignition out Is there a kind of preprogrammed button or anything else to implement helpful ? Thank you already and ask in case of unclearness ๐
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Unbalanced by curb scratchers
Hello, today when parking (approx. 1-2 km/h) I kissed the curb with one of my front aluminium rims. Now it knows a deep scratch of an area about 1 cm2. Do I have to reckon with an imbalance now, since material removal has taken place?
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Compression ratio -> Engine power
Hello together, maybe someone can help me further and this is about the compression ratio and its effect on the engine power. It is about a via compressor charged engine. The engine has an original, as a suction cup, a compression of 9.8:1 and was charged while maintaining the compression via compressor, which is not unusual with this engine. Later the compression by other pistons was lowered to 8.5:1 and the car was retuned. Unfortunately, no Power measurement made with the original compaction. Can you say about what is lost in readout if you only lower the compression when everything else remains 100% the same? I only have the power value of the input measurement before resetting. The background is that I could better estimate the quality of my conversion compared to others, with the same engine, since I always wonder that I have a relatively low power at relatively high charging pressure.
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Accelerated basic qualification
Hello, I’m currently doing the GrundQuali decision with the subsequent IHK exam. I’m about to solve a few tasks, but I can’t get any further. Maybe one of you can help me and explain them to me. Thank you in advance. Kalle does not have permission for commercial road transport. Therefore he sets a small truck (total mass 2.8t) for his transports with a rigid drawbar trailer (total mass 0.9t) Permissible support load at the Lk w 200kg Permissible load trailer 100kg Possible answers: A) The use of the combination is permitted, since the maximum permissible mass is less than 3.5 tonnes. B)As it is a truck, a permit is always required, regardless of the maximum permissible mass. C) The combination must not be used, since the total load of the trailer is less than that of the towing vehicle. D) The use of the combination is permitted, since the individual maximum permissible mass is 3.5 tonnes each. It’s over.
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Automatic converter vs. manual switch – acceleration disadvantage purely subjective?
Hi, in various sub forums on MT one reads the opinion that converter automatics appear very sluggish compared to hand-operated transmissions. I have now for one and a half years a vehicle with converter automatics (DB C180T, W202) and can find this supposed inertia nowhere. If I start at the traffic light, I also come faster from the spot when I don’t use the kickdown than vehicles with hand-operated gearboxes, which are handled by the tension interruption during each switching process. apt. Also overtaking maneuvers with kick-down use are faster due to the lack of tension interruption than with comparable switchcars. Therefore, I have come to the conclusion that this alleged inertia of the converter automatic is at best the result of poor motor-gear combinations (too little engine power and too far gear-step-gradation) or a completely insignificant urban legend. What are your experiences in this regard?
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Technical question about oil consumption ?
Hello together, I have a specific question about the oil consumption of an engine and the same is as follows: Can it be that an engine consumes more oil on more frequent motorway rides than if it is mainly used in city or country road traffic? For me this question arose because I was almost exclusively travelling in city traffic as well as country road traffic, i.e. about 2×40 km daily. The engine of my car never needed to detect any oil. but now it is the case that I travelled almost 5000 km on the highway within 2 months and I now had to refill half a litre of engine oil when measuring the engine oil. Is this normal ? Do I have to think seriously now ? I know from other threads that according to VW it is supposedly normal to consume a litre of engine oil at 1000 km. I am unsure at the moment just the fact that at once an oil consumption can be determined ?! The engine is a 1,9 TDI with DPF and 1 05 HP MKB: BLS mileage 113,000 KM. I would really appreciate tips or advice !! LG de Micha.