Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello Asphaltfriends ! To keep it short and crisp, I would like to ask you for your “expert knowledge” or an explanation about what the following terms are concerned with….. 1. Thermostat housing = ? 2. Coolant thermostat housing = ? 3. Plug housing thermoswitch = ? Jap, that’s it for now Even if the one to the other is now in front of the baldness, soon “technical” answer would really help me a lot.

Hello, I turn to Golf 1&2 drivers, because there are old cars that are often built in big engines and the cars are therefore quite fast. I drive in everyday life Golf 5 and by the way have a Ford Oldtimer, on both forums I think it makes no sense to ask the one too modern and the other too rare. I think all drivers of faster old cars know that, at high speed abruptly strong braking can make a fear. Problem is, you don’t know if he gl I think that pulling to one side has several reasons, tires, road and weight distribution li/re. Has anyone ever thought about it, the front left brake line is much shorter than the right one. Maybe it has an effect on pulling to one side because the brake fluid to the right side has a longer transmission path and thus the right brake responds to an Mμ later? The S elbe, of course, also with the rear axle. The only remedy for this is the same length of the brake lines, i.e. the left brake lines extend.

The existing mass cable remains, only a second one is built into it. Just as the first one is attached to the battery with connector and screw, the second point is a screw in the engine compartment, possibly on the other side of the already existing connection. Cable thickness approximately the same as the already existing one. Is it useful to install such a thing to exclude bad or worse-growing mass connections as well as possible and to give the current as much return connection as possible?

Hi, with my car the coolant would have to be changed soon. As far as I know, the medium also has additives that should prevent e.g. rust from being created inside. Does the entire system have to be emptied, rinsed and refilled, or can I just suck off so much of the container until it is empty and simply fill in fresh coolant? Would that be enough, or should one rather let off completely? I would have to go to the workshop for this, but I would have to have my car almost every day ready to drive (career). So in short: Is it only enough to empty the container and fill funds again up to Max., or yet workshop and completely change? Does it also bring something if I just do the suction and refill method, or could it then happen that it starts to rust at some point? Would be grateful for useful answers (don’t know me about the matter really well)

Hello all, I hope I’m in the right area. I’m just repairing a pressure regulator of a preheater. I bent the edges, cut the seal and want to get the whole thing back tight. However, I don’t know how best to do it when drilling the holes. I have drill bits in 1, 1.5 and 2mm diameter. Dimensions of the screws I imagined 1.7 mm, but also have others there. Material is the top I think brass is the other steel or uh In between a 0.5mm thick rubber seal. How big should I pre-drill the holes so that the screws hold tight in it? Attached is another picture as it should look. I would leave the edges on it. Could it work away if necessary. My variant would be to pre-drill the holes in brass + steel with 1.5mm and screw them with 1.7mm. Or rather 1.5mm in brass and 2mm in steel? Thank you very much!

Hello fans, I have a present for you again for Easter and this is a problem? if it is one. 2 days ago when I drove in my underground garage and ran up I saw a mega water track, real thick klekse and drip exactly where I drove.. up to my parking space. I didn’t think about anything, the next morning I checked my cooling water but everything ok and dense. Am today over 100KM danger and no problems so I thought ok the Track doesn’t belong to me Today I went to my fitness studio and my girlfriend with her car behind me, and she then said that I lost the worst water. Then we looked a bit more closely and it turns out that it comes from my exhaust. What could that be now? what bad? or is that normal and some kondeswasser? Driving he does himself quite normal and the engine Temp is also completely ok. But somewhere the mega water track has to come from?? =) Lg

The car is an older Suzuki Wagon R WITHOUT ABS. The braking force on the rear axle (drum brake) was too low; I changed the cheeks and it didn’t really improve. I don’t think the rear axle blocks on the test bench. From HU I have numbers, left right 1st axle 203 161 2. axle 63 51 Handbrake 123 91 With new brake cheeks it was not much better today in the hobby workshop, especially it did not lift the rear axle out of the roller test bench. Unfortunately I was not allowed to “driving” him, but both at the HU as well as in the hobby workshop, according to demand was maximum. However, at the hobby workshop he was loaded with approx. 50kg in the trunk and I am briefly also on the loading edge with my 95kg, but no change. In 2012 the test report for the dealer (in my opinion after a fall investigation) was similar from the values. At the front each 200, at the rear at the service brake each 60 and allegedly blocked. Reports from the previous years In between, unfortunately, we don’t have. In total, 4 cables go into the controller, it has its own internal control piston for each side. Since the brake force regulator reacts to the axle load or suspension of the rear axle, I wonder if this is not even correct, because it is supposed to limit the braking force on the rear axle. It is set by shifting the beginning of the spring on a guide on the rear axle, the setting is correct. We are far away from 50% of the minimum braking, 1330kg would be the maximum permissible mass but perhaps there are other criteria for such vehicles with load-dependent brake force regulator.

Tach, let’s ask those who know each other. Can you as a mechanic do something wrong with the assembly of a complete exhaust system? Background is, my Ceed cd was installed the day before yesterday ne bastuck duplex. On the product picture of the manufacturer the connection clamp of two parts is horizontally pictured. However, with me the part is vertical and ensures that I scrape with the part over the floor when I exit from my steep garage. The workshop is unsuspecting. The part looks like the connection is horizontal even after the installation. Unfortunately, I did not find a workshop in the corner that wanted to install the part without requiring 300 eur for 1.5 hours of work. If someone has tips or recommendations, please report. Living in the postal code area 61273 would also drive a few km. Thanks PS, should it not be remodelable I will have it replaced again for the original. Then the bastuck would be handed over.

Good lunch! I got the chance to train directly at BMW as a car mechatronics system and high-voltage technology. Would you take the chance? My parents try to talk me out of this idea because they think they don’t deserve anything in this industry. Does anyone have experience with BMW as an employer? How is the payment after the training so? Can you compare the salary as in a free workshop? I would be very grateful if you would give me and my future he If possible, it may be possible to:

Hello, I have broken the thread of the screw today. Does anyone have an idea which repair kit I could buy? It is a Citroën C crosser, 2.2 HDI, 3001/AFL. The screw is an M10 x 1.25 mm with key size 21. Greetings and thanks in advance.