Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello people, I have to buy a Ctek charger in front of me but there is a very nice selection of devices. Mainly I want to charge car batteries with it but if it is a little bigger it should not make it sluggish. To the selection stand: MXS 5. or MXS 7. or the MXS 10 What would be the best or with what do you have your experiences? What is it so nice to say: better buy right and then you have peace of mind! Thank you in advance! Greeting Tommy

Good day, I’ve had a second-hand French diesel vehicle with SCR system for one year (January 2023). I’ve only driven 10,000 km with it since then and now with ~60,000 km I get the first notification/request for refilling the AdBlue. In ~2,000 km they want to deny me the start. I know that the vehicle also stood before my purchase at least a year since the previous owner had passed away. As I read, the AdBlue liquid is about a Jah r durable. So in the AdBlue tank of my vehicle there are now a few liters that are likely. Since I am reading in vehicle forums, I know that the AdBlue system makes my vehicle and can only be exchanged as a whole. (€ 1,000+ of pure material costs) Regardless of this, I plan to add an additive to counteract the crystallization. Thank you and thank you very much!

Hello, I got this report today for a car that is privately advertised. I unfortunately don’t understand the things with the brakes. In addition, 2 summer tires drove in. Can this be a bigger problem? The tires were bought in 2021 and were driven about 23000km. Winter tires, which are on it also have different profile. But probably not driven in. At least there is nothing in the report. Is a Seat Leon, BJ 2016, 100000km, 116PS.

Hello, my battery (EFB) has been stuck to a charger for more than 24 hours, but it didn’t get full. Measured with multimeters after it had calmed down an hour was 12.2-12.3 volts charger is the Bosch C3 Have now made me a battery monitor, which then also told me that si is charged to 51%. I then made the C3 again and measured with the current plier. Although the battery is only 50 % charged, the device went only to the 3,8A Charging voltage, but then immediately to 0,8A. So this 14.4 volts you can see, for example, when the alternator is charging, I could never measure on the battery here. I tried this several times, was always the same. Just put it in AGM mode, also there is a short 3,8A then 0,8A. I’ve been driving for an hour now and according to the guard I am on >90%. What is the reason why it can’t hold the charging voltage, on the device (that’s new) or can it have another reason? VG

Hello, since the LPG price in Germany has risen enormously (and a friend sells a well-preserved diesel) I am thinking about whether my next car will become a diesel. I am mainly concerned with the consumption of constant motorways at 120 km/h, because for short distances I already have a means of transport with a consumption of 0 (except calories). Data for the consumption at 120 km/h is unfortunately only available until about 1995, e.g. for the BMW e39:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_E39#Model years_199 6_und_1997 In terms of driving performance, the petroler 520 is most likely to match the diesel 525 tds. In the case of petroler, the 7.3 liters at a petrol price of 1.90 euros currently cost around 14 euros. If one assumes an additional consumption of 20 % at LPG, one comes to about 9 liters of LPG, which costs about 9 euros at a gas price of 1 euro. In the case of diesel, it would be 6.7 liters times about 1.80 euros, which corresponds to about 12 euros. To what extent has the technology with the diesel (and petroler) in the letz Is there any data on the consumption of the same car with diesel and petrol engine (and possibly also electric motor) at 120 km/h, so that you can compare? Greeting Desperado

Hey, I’ve been installing a Dashcam in my Mazda 2 from 2017 for about 1.5 months. I used a hardware kit to prevent the battery from being unloaded in the parking mode of the Cam. It also ran perfectly for the first weeks. However, the camera went off and off all the time after about 3 weeks. After a few days it stayed out. When it went on again, it quickly went off again and stayed it too. My car battery is therefore also in use for 7 years. What could the problem be? The battery has never actually made a problem and I would like to exchange the battery for almost 150€ only on suspicion. Thank you! I’d like to thank you very much.

Hey, I drove to the TÜV with a car. I already thought that this vehicle did not exist the TÜV and wanted to check before I still invest something, whether it is worth it. In the end it is only a small thing: the brakes. The following defects: – service brake 1. axle uneven (over 25%) – service brake system minimum braking not achieved – wheel brake 1. axle left freedom of movement not sufficient Note: service brake 2. axle slightly uneven Measurements 1. axle li. 144 / re. 194 2nd axle li. 130 / re. 106 z = 41.9% So much for it. The brake at the front left does not go back in order. Vehicle: Built 1998 / 73,000km / 1 time a month It was inherited now and is driven more. The workshop now said that you can try to clean the brake and try it again. Nevertheless, I do not think that this will have a lot of effect. The brake pedal has been soft since the takeover and had no proper braking performance. I pushed it onto the The rear brake drums were changed and the system was ventilated. Nevertheless, the soft brake pedal was still present. I think there is something wrong with it. How would you proceed? Can a defective caliper lead to a soft brake pedal and the reduction of the braking effect in the entire system? (For example, air in the system)

Hello, Is there any medium that can be applied against the fixed of the wheel nuts without hesitation? Especially with the i3 BMW the screws are usually extremely fixed – go off only with the impact wrench again. With so much force that I worry about the bolts … Regular loosening/pulling is not possible except for wheel change (are not only my cars). Normal oils and release agents are usually not allowed because the torque then does not fit anymore, there are et what’s going on anyway? Or maybe galvanic galvanic?

Hello together, I have a battery (Green Cell AGM lead battery) with 12V/12Ah and an H7 halogen lamp (XELORD) with 12V/55W. If I would only connect the lamp to the battery, then 1) If the current in the circuit is about 4.58A: P = U * I => I = P / U => I = 55W / 12V = 4.58A 2) If the battery lasts about 2 hours 37 minutes: 12Ah / 4.58A = 2.62h (Decimal) or 2 hours 37 minutes I would have two questions: 1) Are my calculations correct or have I overlooked something ? 2) Is that correct that no Resistor is necessary in this circuit? And, if so, why? Wouldn’t the lamp burn out immediately without Resistor? 3) I connected two 9V block batteries (Varta) in series and tried to make the o.e. lamp glow. But that didn’t work. Can someone please explain to me why this didn’t work? Thank you in advance!

Hello all, I have here a set of actually new MacPherson shock absorbers lying, however, I have slipped for the spring plate due to a mounting error of the holding ring (I think a kind of blast ring) (see example picture). I could push the ring back into position, but it no longer holds, slips down again as soon as I tighten the spring. Now I wonder if I can somehow save the shock absorber (pull in new ring or even weld it tight) ) or whether this is a case for the scrap? Since there are no identical new parts anymore, I would have to replace the whole set, or can one mix shock absorbers from different manufacturers on one axis? Thanks and Greetings Olli