Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello together, I would like to make myself independent with the Knenfeldoptimierung. Have thought about buying the Autotuner as a slave for the start as a flasher and first use an external master for the data. Can one of you recommend me a good master? Is one bound to the master or can one use several at the same time on the Autotuner? Do one pay with one master monthly fees or is one contractually bound to it over a long period of time? Or do one pay only pr o Optimized file? Thank you in advance!

Hello, I just have the old TÜV report of a (potentially) new car in front of me. For this I have one/two questions about the braking values. For the parking brake the values are 248 and 222 daN for the 2nd axle. This results in a deceleration of 19.4 % (m=2402kg). For the service brake were read for the 1st axle 289 and 294 daN, for the 2nd axle 205 and 204 daN. Strangely, a deceleration for the BBA was not specified (I come to a deceleration of about 40%, However, there is still a print specification px (in bar) with 25.0 and 48.1 and a value F min (in daN) of 328 and 245. Furthermore, there are percentages of Ant (73.3% and 26.7%) and Ant min (52% and 19%). The first value for px, F min, Ant and Ant mnin always refers to the first axis, the second to the second axis. If someone has an idea of what px, F min, Ant and Ant min mean and how it can be seen from the fact that the TÜV has reached minimum value, the TÜV has reached minimum value. e? Google has unfortunately not yielded anything :/.

Hello all, I had problems with my Citroen C1 on May 21 (of course on a holiday). The car had an extreme power loss and the “control light of the exhaust detoxification system” lit. So I called the breakdown service, which found after a short time that a ignition coil was probably defective and the car was no longer ready to drive. So my car was towed to the next workshop, I put the car key and vehicle license in the mailbox. On May 22nd, I called the workshop directly and reported the problem of my C1 and the diagnosis of the breakdown service. It was agreed that the workshop would report with an estimate. Since I still heard nothing about my car on May 24.5, I called the workshop again and asked for my car. I was only told that the master is not available at the moment and that I could not find the car. On May 25th, I was finally called that my car was finished and they took the liberty of repairing it. It was actually the ignition coil. So I went to get the car. When I got there, my car was also handed over to me repaired, but I could not be told about any costs due to a system error. I would get an invoice. This bill is now in front of me. The breakdown service told me at the time that the repair was done. I am aware that the breakdown service can only give a rough estimate, but the invoice amount is now 220,72€ The amount is composed of the ignition coil 48107 TDOC for 161,44€ and 59,28€ for repair and error analysis + 19% VAT. As the amount deviates so much from my expectations, I Googled the price for the ignition coil and there came out prices between 67€ and 69,31€ (incl. VAT!). Apart from the fact that it would cost me 100€. about the costs should have informed, can it not be that I find the spare part for over 100€ less on the Internet?! Or does a workshop really pay so much more for the spare parts? I would be very grateful for a piece of advice. LG

The following situation: 80km/h on city highway, a little narrower curve when changing to a crossing highway. This curve goes for the experienced driver at 80km/h, but most of them drive slower, because the curve is optically deceptive. It also goes up slightly. I found out the last time that the ACC (Skoda Kodiaq) takes away gas here. If I want to drive the 80 constantly, I have to give gas. Why is this so? I also tried it out in an empty parking lot at speed 30. As soon as I get a little rough, I have to drive the 80. The car no longer holds the 30th “stronger” but does not mean that other assistance systems are required, but only means normal fast cornering without starting slides. I don’t think this feature is necessary. What do you mean? And what does it look like with other manufacturers (outside VAG)? How do they behave?

Hello together. I drive a SEAT Arona and belong to the little drivers, about 10,000km a year. Mostly I drive to work, about 5km. From about April-September I ride my bike to work. During this time the car is needed for shopping (drinks) or sometimes for a Sunday trip. However, it happens that the car is not moved at all for a few weeks. However, my car is a luxury for me, which I do not like to miss and also often already benevolent. In addition, my car is standing out all year round because I don’t have a garage. To rent a garage I have to find one first (demand is very high) and it should also be near the apartment (what if I first walk 1km to the car in the morning and then drive 4km to work). In addition, I live directly on a river where it is always damp and foggy, which is certainly not good for the car. I have to remember that e.g. the brake discs are damaged quite quickly and they need to be replaced faster than usual. Other damages can certainly occur faster. What possibilities are there to prevent or delay this, so that the car is still ready for use quickly? Thanks for tips.

Hello and nice day off! I had my old used Thermo Top C, Bj 2011, installed in my W124 (petrols) by a company. The heater has so far been used very little, in the previous car I was able to start the heating with a SIM card, so call. Now in the W124 is only a switch. The fans in the car do not run on, only if the car is completely cold. The workshop, no specialist for it, said from 60 degrees it shuts off. That is, I drüc ke the button and start the heater, it then runs (blow) until the water reaches 60 degrees and then switches off and not on again. So there is clearly something broken or wrong installed? Does anyone have an idea what it might be? Thank you and greeting Martin

On 26.07.2019 the first provider of hardware retrofits was granted a “General type approval (ABE) for NOx reduction systems for retrofitting passenger cars”. In this Tread I would like to collect information about the hardware retrofits. So, among other things, what providers and solutions there are, what these costs, which car manufacturers give a subsidy, which workshops offer retrofits and what experiences you have had with upgraded vehicles. I have been able to collect nfos so far: Type-approvals from the KBAZusschuss der Daimler AG für Hardware RetrofitsFAQ for hardware retrofits from VWInfos about Baumot’s HW retrofitsInfos about Dr Pley’s HW retrofits The media coverage of HW retrofits is of course just as much a topic as the political decisions for/against the retrofits.

I hope my question fits in this forum. I have the problem that my golf always starts on the last pusher in this extreme cold. Glow plugs and battery are according to workshop. I have the feeling if the car is not used for 2 or 3 days in this cold, that the battery is getting a bit unloaded or just weaker. My car is lantern parker. Cable laying is therefore not necessarily a hit I think about this charger a to create and leave permanently in the car in winter. www.lowprices-24.de/a-10/?referrerID=3 Does anyone have experiences or can I recommend something else?

Hello, is there still today (namely) manufacturer of starter batteries that you can fill yourself or where the new battery (without acid filling) is still “dry” and the appropriate acid is delivered separately with it?

Hello together, The heater in my “new” used (125kW diesel) can heat and air, i.e. heat cooling water or heat only the interior. If the cooling water is heated up, the engine practically skips the cold running phase, in which a lot of fuel is consumed. Is it possible that by heating the cooling water with the help of the heater and thus skipping the cold running phase in total less diesel is consumed than without the heating and heating up n of the engine from its own power loss?