Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I was in the Czech Republic this weekend, and wanted to have a tacho service. To my surprise, the expert who has done such work so far was no longer there. I interviewed the neighborhood, which had also spoken good English, and there I was told that tacho adjustment has been banned in the whole Czech Republic since 01.10.2018, and the expert moved out on 02.10.2018. Is that true, that in CZ now also speed adjustment since the 01.10.2018 is prohibited?

Moin, I am superior to what is more sprite-saving. I drive a Citroen C1 (like the Aygo) with +/- 5L/100km – To work it is about the highway 20km (100-120 km/h) and via the highway&Dörfer 15km (30-50km/h and 70-100km/h). – Timely difference about 3 minutes. – Stop&Gos (lights, intersections etc.) at the highway line are about 6-7. At the highway line about 10-12 (depending on how many construction sites and cars at the road edge hinder the passage in villages). – The highway ha t 3 bridges and thus 6x transitions that should properly hit the camp. The country road and the road in the villages is of course not really better. potholes and patchwork carpets, Gullis are abundant. The country road & village route is about 25% shorter but has 30-50% more stop & gos. In addition, more curves and a worse road condition. What are your experiences and assessments on the topic of consumption, wear and safety? – On the topic of safety I keep the Highway for safer since guardrail separates the oncoming traffic and less wild. – On the topic wear it is difficult. In general I see the curvy and bumpier highway with higher wear and tear than the highway with the 25% longer route. However, these bridges on the highway are already a point where one should take into account since with 120km/h these transitions are already noticeable. – On the topic of consumption I unfortunately do not know how I can estimate that. Would say yes, that I on d it can theoretically save on the highway with 100-120km/h (almost never traffic jam) by the constant driving method rather sprite than on the shorter highway as it has curvy and more stop&gos. However, I often drive in the villages only 50km/h and on rural roads partly only 70km/h. What do you think?

Hello guys and girls I need something to seal the oil pan, is there an oil-resistant silicone, or which means is suitable for it? Viktor

…you also have to ask me a stupid question: Yesterday evening/night I was once again on the ‘flooded’ highway with heavy (snow) rain; my car was heavily showered with plenty of rainwater and spray of trucks. And not for the first time did I ask myself why the engine was not actually drained? Especially because with our cars the fresh air is sucked directly at the front of the grille. How/Where does the separation take place?

Good day, I bought a Peugeot 106 S16 out of an old youth passion. It was tuned as a new car at Peugeot at the engine. Forging pistons, fan manifolds, head, camshaft. According to the dynamometer, the car now has 165ps instead of 118 hp. The changes to the chassis and rims were registered, the performance formation unfortunately not. I would like to register the performance increase before I allow the car now. My questions: 1. How high is the traffic light How are the necessary changes measured? 2. What does the registration cost, is this done via a single acceptance? 3. Is the performance test carried out directly at the TÜV or do I have to have a dynamometer? 4. Should the examiner say. “But you still have to change the whole braking system.” Can I still say “no thanks” or is the moment when the system is running? and I can’t get a permit anymore? Thank you!

Hi, everybody! My old sweetheart (Golf 4 TDI PD) has not reached the top speed for some time now. In the acceleration I can subjectively notice no big difference. But from 190 km/h after Tacho the car becomes quite loud; it is from about 190 then a (and with increasing speed louder) “hole” noise, as if somewhere a resistance were – I can not describe it better. VMax according to Tacho was always almost 200 km/h. That then also fit GPS- This winter, however, the car was driven for the first time extremely short distance. What I also noticed are light jerks in idle operation. When I once filled A*al Ultimate Diesel, the acceleration was better and the car was subjectively quieter in idle. The AGR valve (no, it is not locked!) and the intake bridge are clean, so fall away as an explanation. I have a follow-up with the registered 188 km/h. The fault memory is empty. equipped HJS CityFilter, which should not be able to clog up. As far as I know, however, the soot is also collected at the things until the necessary temperature is reached for regeneration. –>What happens if this does not happen long ago? Where is the soot actually, if not regenerated yet? –>Can I safely drive on the BAB full throttle for longer and bet that the filter – if it is on it – is then completely burned free and the VMax slowly climbs again t? (It’s not about torturing top performance out of the old fuel oil diesel – but I still find it funny and the jerks are not really tingling.)

Hello, does anyone know why you don’t connect an electric preheating with a circulation pump to the oil circuit of a motor? a healthy battery provided, without forgetting that, it is best to use an additional battery only for this purpose. 100ah, you would have to be able to bring the oil to operating temperature in 3-4 minutes, depending on the quantity and outside temperature. you wouldn’t pull more current than many people do. that would be quite significant for the lifetime of the mot ors. doesn’t the car industry want to do that? why have I never heard of someone who has made such a thing together? do I have a mental mistake in it somewhere? the whole thing of course with mobile remote control or something to get away from the waiting time. lg karl

Now it has happened, which according to all promises could never and should never have happened. The first fatal accident by autonomous driving in the USA. Supposedly a truck was overlooked due to reflections by solar radiation. The camera system was thus overloaded. So it was a very everyday situation, which should not pose a big challenge for a detection system. I can only hope that this nonsense here in Germany never gets a license. If you want to experiment with it, you should do it on non-public sites.

Hello together, actually I see my topic here as “offtopic”, but I don’t find a suitable forum area for this (if there is such an area, please move it. Thanks!). Maybe I’m not so wrong here, because it’s about vehicle technology. I live in the center of a larger city and notice that in recent times extremely many vehicles drive around, whose exhausts give real “fur noises”. That also seems to increase more and more. Can someone explain to me why this is good? (I would be very embarrassed if my car did this.) Is this just a new “tuning trend” with only the noise at stake, or does it actually have a “lower technical sense”? I suspect that some sense has to be behind it, because some vehicles seem to have already started to do so. I noticed this especially with newly-acting small cars (e.g. minis). Can anyone tell me more about it?

hello together, yesterday at my f11 535i bf 2011 the summer bikes were grown and at the same time made an oil change. my oil I ordered as always in the oil depot24,mobil1 0w40 new life, always super clapped. car on the stage oil down and wheels off,when I was so far I opened the box from the oil depot24 and found scared that it was not a new life but a fs ôl is “mobil1 0w40 fs”,from the homepage and seen the new life was replaced by the fs, you can say but what do you want 1.If I feel fucked up from the oil depot24,I buy new life and get something else 2.Completes the oil now no longer the ll01 of bmw which I need 3.yes I should have opened the box before it still put it on because unfortunately I had nothing else to hand on Saturday evening. my question, should I leave it on or swap it?fzg has no guarantee anymore. thank you and greeting*** edit by Johnes, MT-moderation ***