Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I ask a question here, find no suitable section for it. On a Mazda the AIR Bag lamp shines permanently. The car was for diagnosis twice in the workshop, but they do not find the error. If they have checked everything, they want to renew the control unit. To the question, if it is not, take back the control unit, the answer no, we can not return it to Mazda either. Now the light has all at once self erled Is it necessary for the workshop to expand the equipment again, or to take it back? It costs only a few hundred euros. Jan.

Hello, when using my fiancée’s Kia Picanto (built in 2009), the steering was rather cumbersome at first. The workshop now said that the power steering is not broken, but that this would be related to the battery, which is probably rather weak. This Bosch S4 with 40Ah (330A) was last replaced about 2 years ago. Now I have hung the battery on my battery charger in the built-in condition. Now it shows that the charging beam as well as the voltages For example, the voltage rises to 14.0 V within 90 seconds, then 14.5 V is displayed to the fraction of a second before it falls to 13.5 V. On this voltage it then stays 30 seconds and then drops to 12.5 V again and is jumpy again at 13.4 V. What are your suggestions? Does the battery solve the problem in your opinion or is it just a first step?

Hello, What do you think of such additives for diesel fuel against spillage? (Diesel Flow Fit by Liqui Moly)http://www.zentalverkauf.de/a/30478104/src/goo/Vehicles/lubricants-and-%C3%96le/DIESEL-flie%C3%9F-fit-Liqui-Moly.html ….Since the diesel engines have really hard in the winter and add very low temperatures to the diesel fuel, I wonder if such additives are a good thing, if not for me this is an argument not to buy diesel. For the next winter should remain as extreme as the last winter and if the driver already has to fight with -30 degrees, then at least the engine of the car should not strike. …….The “construction market” additives for diesel should not be good, but how about additives from such manufacturers as Liqui Moly? (see above)

Hello, in the case of a car, the left front wheel was rubbed down one side. So new tires were bought, so that the box “stands straight” and for checking and measuring. Target/adjustment data according to their protocol: fall should lie between -1°50′ and -0°20′. To the maximum difference li./re. no information.Entrance was fall left -0°35′, right -1°58′. Track left +0°22′, right +0°13′. OK, you have to be surprised about nothing. It’s not possible anymore to the right. Track left -0°01′ and right +0°02′ This makes me angry, because there is a difference of more than 1° in the fall – that’s not a clean setting. I know it so that you usually avoid differences of more than 30 minutes. Or did I get something wrong here? You could have: – To the left then just put more in the direction of the right, because of me -1°30′. – Or: The old VW front axle has long holes in the crossbar for the support. The three screws of the carrying joint loosen and thus create more “adjustment room”. Dejected, worn out or crooked is according to those and HU examiners nothing. Just adjusted. The car is a 92 Corrado, with base axle. Very similar to the Golf 2/3, Passat 35i….

We bought an excavator from 1972 and are renovating it for private use. Brand is a manitu and it owns a Ford engine diesel. Can be its series 4000. Unfortunately, it oils out back and squirts like the plague. Unfortunately also at the crankcase ventilation. After trying around and testing we do not believe that it is the valves, but that because it has stood for a long time firm piston rings. How would you clean it. It is worth a try. We thought on 5W40 Buy and additive to it. Then run really warm and exchange. https://shop.liqui-moly.de/motor-clean-4.html Other ideas? Is not a truck engine very sensitive.

Hello, have heard about my Toyota dealer that the (fuel) consumption is quite high when driving with cruise control, or at least significantly higher than when driving the same route without cruise control (you regulate yourself how much gas you give). At least this should be the case if you keep the cruise control at a speed rather than speeding up with the cruise control. My question: Why is the fuel consumption so high when driving with cruise control? Can anyone explain the reasons for this? Thank you, Lg, Wildcatz

Hello people, following vehicle control logic which is not understandable for me: Brand forgotten, Start/Stop only goes when buckled, especially the engine starts at the stop, if you buckled off, it would not go without belt again I would see. Brand forgotten, automatic hand brake only goes when buckled. It is used that he does not roll back with it, he just rolled back from the exit Berg up at the crossroads then, where fortunately no one was. Brand forgot I don’t know if it’s such a problem nowadays to detect a reverse driving, but second, it’s actually no. Second, it should be able to complain if the cat is in the microwave. First, it may not be dangerous, but where is the point. Generally, however, I wonder if cars are tested and registered so extensively, it’s not safe to say that they’re not dangerous. to what no one notices, is now much more obvious than NOx e.g.

Moin, I’m about to have a final exam and I can’t handle the topic of electrics. For the exam: I have to be able to diagnose a mass closure, a plus closure and a cable break with a multimeter. Now I’ve watched some videos on YouTube, but I’m not smart about it. Why do you have to switch the component voltage-free? How is what measured? How do you recognize exactly a mass closure, plus closure or a cable break? he lamp doesn’t come to Plus on earth, plus pulls power from another consumer and lights up because lamp gets power permanently. In case of a cable break, the lamp doesn’t glow either, because the cable from Plus is broken. I’m already halfway aware of that. How do I measure what, what is it? E.g. How do you proceed with a multimeter there? Do you happen to have some instructional videos on partitions? Thank you in advance Paul

Does anyone know if there is a semi-transparent representation anywhere, whether new criteria for the ADAC tests are added year after year and which ratings are comparable across classes and over several years? The following example: A current Ceed (CD) has a mark of 2.8 for the suspension. Link to the ADAC test. It says “Nevertheless, there is more suspension comfort than the previous one”. The predecessor (JD) had a mark of 2.4 for the suspension…Link to the ADAC test Zu “ADAC Bewertu I have found nothing and only the following document on “ADAC Test Criteria” (as at 06/2017): https://www.adac.de/…/So%20testet%20of%20ADAC%20Autotest_30012.pdf This is the evaluation of the suspension:”Subjective assessment of the suspension properties on uniform test routes (city, highway, highway and bad road) at different speeds.” That means for me that you can push the ADAC suspension rating elsewhere. portal on which comparable measurements are published?

Hello, I allow myself to post here again my question, which I have already asked in the “Renaut-Scenic-Forum, in the hope of reaching a larger group.https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-1-6-jm1r06-04-2007-t6531025.html?… My daughter drives a Scenic 1.6 from 2007. After the car was driven about eight kilometers, then about half an hour stood, while the radio was used, the engine did not jump any more. At home, the car was hung on my small Fritec charger (Vario 2.0), first with the battery connected. Charge progress as follows: •After a few minutes 15% / 14.4 V / 2.8 – 2.9 A. •after about six hours 75% / 14.4 V / 1.0 A. •after about eight hours 79 % / 14.4 V / 1.0 A. After that, the charge condition remained unchanged, no progress was made. As a result, I separated the cable from the negative pole of the battery and see, the battery was fully charged within a short time with 100% / 14.4 V / 0.0 A Then I measured a current of approx.1.5 A with a multimeter between the minus pole and the minus cable. Because I typed a defect of an electrical component, the car was driven to a Renault workshop. There the battery and the generator were measured first and found intact. The fault memory was read out, but there was no entry available. The car was then in the workshop over the weekend and jumped perfectly today. Lt. With regard to my measurement of the current, which I had thought of as a rest current measurement, the workshop master told me that the type of measurement was useless, because the control unit did not accept this, but rather a current plier must be used, which I do not own. At home I reconnected my Fritec charger and the result was exactly the same as above. Precautionarily, I ordered a new, significantly stronger battery, because the 50 Ah-Renault battery built by the previous owner does not belong in the Scenic anyway, rather belongs in min. a 60 Ah. With my Fritec charger I have already charged many batteries between 22 Ah and 100 Ah and have never experienced such a phenomenon before. Has any of you ever had the problem described by me at a Scenic? Thank you for your help.