Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, during a lecture at the university I got a project about valve springs. That’s why I am looking for the temperatures of valve springs and the corresponding engine data. In my Internet research I have found temperatures only unfortunately without further information. About associated engine power, car brand and if possible also examples from motorsport I would be very pleased! Thank you in advance and Prosit New Year

Hello, dear motor-talker! Once again, I’m talking about short-distance driving. The fact is that the wear is increased as long as the engine is still cold and has not yet reached its operating temperatures, including operating fluids. However, this is inevitable, because even before a long-distance driving starts the ride with cold engine. Problem is, however, that when a cold start and when driving in cold conditions, fuel/condensation water is used in the oil cycle in small quantities. This is only neutralized again by a longer journey in a warm condition. However, if you keep driving short distances and turn off the vehicle cold again, if you leave the engine no chance to remove the accumulated fuel/water from the circuit again. Thus, the dilution increases more and more. So I understood the whole thing once, please correct me if I am wrong. But now to my actual question: Is it possible at all, for example, by a longer motorway ride to get the undesirable substances that arise from the short distance operation out of the oil? In other words, is a one-hour motorway ride sufficient to “regener” the motor oil after a week of pure short distance again?

My 2010 Golf VI, 1.2 TSI with 230k km loses (again) oil. Tüv is 10/2025, oil change and brake fluid is on. I wanted to avoid that car to be repaired expensively and then to get it still no more over the Tüv. Question: Does it make sense to drive now already to the Tüv to get told what has to be done? In the best case I get the plaque. The Tüv won’t scratch off the plaque prematurely because of the oil loss, will it? Or am I just too scared and should the car be repaired now incl. service and then relaxed in October drive to Tüv?

Hello dear municipality, I have a transit custom Bj 2014 155 Ps, which is extended to the camping bus with solar system. The starter battery is now over 10 years old and is to be replaced by the existing AGM supply battery, which is then to be replaced by a litium battery. Who knows if my previous battery management is sufficient for this? A MT RE 140 Duo Relay 12 V 140 A with a turn-on threshold 13.3 V and turn-off threshold 12.8 V as well as for the S olar system a so-called sunsaver (see photo). According to my information it could be that with the lithium battery something else is needed here. It is by the way no 230 volt system installed – I don’t need. For technical advice I thank you already in advance. Bernd

Hi, what can it be if I have air-conditioning gas refilled and only have a cold pleasure of a few months? I was once again so naive to believe that only because a workshop of Google got five stars that it was good, I was there last summer and the boss of the workshop, literally he told me that there were no leaks, exist because the car was accident-free. So I had air-conditioning recharged for 130 € and the air-conditioning also worked first, This is only for a very short time?? I was at another workshop today, which also fills up gas, but not looking for leaks. The colleague told me that in 80% of the cases the climate compressor is broken and in 20% of the cooler. Is this in your opinion dangerous half-knowledge or can be relied on. Mini Countryman built 2016 / 90 HP diesel. Key number 0005 BBV LG

Dear friends, car life depends on VERY many factors. Some people find that a car with 150,000km is already ready for its last rest, some people drive their car up to 600,000km and don’t understand where the others have a problem. Often, a car life also ends with regulations such as diarrhea by the HU due to xyz. Or simply because of the economy, as one owner says, “The repair already exceeds the residual value. In the new. That’s it.” But the heart, the engine. How long can such a person do? Often these are still completely intact. And right, as my common sense says. These are blocks of highly hardened materials, which also glide over each other by means of oil film. Aren’t they like brake pads or tire rubber. So what prevents an engine from running EWIG? 500,000, 750,000, 1,000,000 and more? Yes, I know the old Mercedes that were known for millions of running power. Ht built elements AM motor like control chains that length each other, skip and shut down but the block itself? BACKGROUND With purchase advices or general assessments you hear very different things from people. At 150,000km someone can say “finger off. The engine is already as good as over the Jordan”. Some say with a mileage of 320,000 “Never. With good care, it does at least as much.” Is it possible to change/maintained parts (oil change, spark plug change, timing belt change, throttle valve/AGR cleaning, valve cover seal renewing etc.) so in short carefully everything “in shot”, can the trip go on potentially endlessly? Especially if you do the above things yourself, the costs are absolutely minimal. How do you think about certain running performances, if you look at a used one for example? PS: I am already aware that STARK is also from the If you drive like a lunatic and whistle for maintenance, you will certainly get a car within 60,000km of the scrap yard.

Hello everybody, my battery is empty again and I urgently have to charge it tonight! Short form: car is moving little, stood now three weeks. Go still with remote control, interior lighting goes, amature display etc. everything goes. But when starting it does not give any sound of itself. So you can hear nothing from the engine. Charger from Lidl (NOT the whole new one from this week) attached to built-in and still connected battery. It flashes when making the power supply. the battery symbol of the charger and then the charger goes back to the standby again. With the only button on the charger (mode button) I can not switch between the individual charging programs back and forth. I just tested the charger on another vehicle (even with connected battery). This is fine. It was also guaranteed to be wired correctly (otherwise the “call sign symbol” would have lit up – this also extra with separate power supply again p Robes: as soon as the terminals are wrongly connected to the charger, the exclamation mark lights up) Does anyone have a quick advice? Is it worth to disconnect the battery? What can it be because it doesn’t start charging?

It is the purchase of an AHK in the house. Now I have seen with some suppliers a rigid AHK, which is however at the bottom of the support with 2 screws attached. Like e.g. here on the picture: BILD But now these AHK models are considered as rigid / not removable. I mean it is clear that one cannot remove these without appropriate tools – whereas with the detachable this is usually possible with bare hand. My question at the point: If I need the AHK only rarely, and ready Would it be possible to arm me with a wrench to remove the wrench? Or, if necessary, eat the screws so tight after the first tightening that you can’t be loosened?

I’ve already read several reports on K&N air filters. Here’s my years of experience with K&N: In fact, it’s like the K&N keeps a life of car life, every now and then, of course. I can confirm the difference in optimized performance when accelerating, I drive a Harley with 1200 Kubik and here I drove paper, foam and also K&N. Clearly the K&N is the best filter here. We’ve already driven the following cars/motorcycle with K&N: VOLVO V7 0, Bj 99 approx.70,000 Km long VOLVO V70II Bj 2004 approx.125,000 Km long POLO 9N Bj 2004 approx.100,000 Km long VOLVO XC 60 Bj 2011 approx.50,000 Km long current vehicle Harley Bj 1993 approx.50,000 Km long current vehicle VOLVO C30 Bj 2011 approx.2,000 Km long current vehicle think that speaks for the K&N Gruss Phil

I have a question, I have an automatic gearbox in my car (automatic hiking) and think about installing an AHK. now to my problem. There is also the possibility to pull the trailers with a control car. Normally, however, the automatic should be more gentle than the manual transmission, since there are no covert parts available when starting up. Also the increase of the torque in the hiking operation should make the start significantly more agile. Car the manual transmission better with trailer operation? Greeting Micha