Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello everyone! Unfortunately something quite stupid happened to me at my car. This October I changed the track rod head, axial joint and steering cuff. By chance it happened yesterday that a steering cuff broke off. Of course I got really angry about myself. But I’m to blame. Now my question. Is it enough to reattach the cuff or does it have to be a new cuff? It’s not damaged. It’s just loose. or doesn’t do anything anyway? Thanks already for your help, dear greetings qwertzmax

Hello experts ! I have a problem with my factory built-in ( so NOT refitted) Webasto heater Thermo Top C ( Gasoline ) It needs at least 2 runs to be able to go through. Usually it only works on the 3rd run that it goes. Could with a small readout device over the OBD of my BMW read out a error code.I recognized the following error code : 9B29 The hour goes up without a wheel and runs and heats also about 2-5 minutes. After that it drives ( Audibly) even ” higher and then lowers down again. It then runs there on the middle level still briefly (heats probably less then) and then drives down completely. After that it goes out. I had this scenario today exact again 2 times. At 3 times it then ran through completely and correctly. Do you know what this error message means ? What cause could this have ? Thanks to you !! Greetings… uwe

Hello everybody, I have a very stupid question. I know that I’m about to reap ridicule and hem but I doubt my mind right now. I wanted to check the oil level with my car (MB C220 CDI T-Modell, Br. 204). I put the car on a supposedly flat surface. With repeated control of the oil measuring rod, I found with horror that the oil level is about 4-5 mm above max. (cold and warm measured). g the oil level at just below Max., as it should be (at the test the car was about half a meter further behind, i.e. the front wheels a little higher)). I could not really believe the result, so that I put a 1 m long water level next to the car on the ground. This showed me that on the front third of the vehicle there is a slope of about 1-2 cm to the front. That can hardly be seen with the naked eye! Now I ask myself all the serious things, o b this gradient is sufficient that the oil level cannot be reliably read, so that it is too high around the described 4-5 mm. Does anyone have similar experiences?

Hello experts, at our Corsa the steering head bearings were renewed. The small workshop (my trust) does not have a measuring device itself, so it went to another workshop, where it was claimed that the tyres had expired too differently to adjust the track. What has the wear of the tyres for an influence on the measurement at the track setting? M.E. is measured here on the rims. And up to a maximum of 1.5mm difference in the profile depth can not be in the stand influence the axis geometry? Or is additionally measured on a roller test bench? I can imagine an influence. I am only concerned with the setting. The workshop “with these tires” did not want to make any lane adjustment. Greetings and thanks for expert advice Michael

I called today in the workshop to ask for heating for my Audi A4 B8 Avant 2.0TDI. I actually wanted to have the Evo5 Plus, but I was told that it only works in the partial load or full load range. The normal Evo5 supposedly regulates itself individually and adapts to the requirements, thus being more efficient and at the same time more economical. I’m not quite sure which one to take now, according to the homepage of Webasto reads the m.M.n. but quite different:Wori n is the difference between a Thermo Top Evo 5 and a Thermo Top Evo 5+? Both models heat with an output of 5.0 kW. Due to the optimized control of the coolant circuit, the Thermo Top 5+ results in a significantly improved heat input in the passenger interior and thus an increase of up to 30%! With a Thermo Top 5+, your customers enjoy the pleasant heat much faster than with a Thermo Top 5! ps I would be grateful.

Hello, I commute 5x a week a distance of 32 km (per day 64 km x 5 = 320 km a week). I drive almost exclusively on the highway (the route is the Uni Bochum to Fernuni Hagen). Auto is an Opel corsa with 60 hp, which still has an old circuit where you have to manually insert the gears by means of a coupling. I pay about 40 euros per week for petrol (once a week the tank is empty and I have to fill up). This seems to me to be quite a lot and I I thought about driving more fuel-saving. Actually, I never drive faster than about 140 km/h. Do you think it makes a difference if, for example, I only ride up the tracks at 90-100 km/h and drive up to a maximum of 130 km/h? Thanks for the lift.

Hello Motortalker have a Opel Signum 2.2 direct BJ. 2004. 228000 and he has run mad oil usage with 5 liters per thousand km.. Often only filled up after 100 km.. Matching Dexos 2 oil not always had… Sometime from 5W30 to 5W40 with expensive oil without Dexos2 release, it ran noticeably softer. Then I had in the hope that even thicker oil improved the thing again a 10W/0 oil of the same brand LiquiMoli filled: After 50 km stutter, engine sign and in the workshop when reading out 3 cylinders. Oil change made, everything out and again Dexos 2 5 W 40 oil pure plus 4 new sparks. After that he ran 40 km all cylinders, only at idle he shakes at the traffic light at 600 revolutions.. In the workshop they then gave in idle 5x full throttle until Visichtbat engine smoked in front and pressed out oil.. It would be engine damage, stops at some point… I then filled up again after 40 km half-liter oil, and now r runs again on all cylinders. Nevertheless, Werkstatt Jungmechaniker thinks that with so much oil consumption the cat can go up to 1000 degrees, burst and burn out the vehicle…..thanks for the conversation.. Now I don’t know if I should move the vehicle on short distances without too much… since the new engine with installation or repairing new piston rings is probably not worth…1000 euros upwards… What do you think? Frank

Hello, my car is just in the workshop. It did not pass the TÜV and a new catalyst had to be installed. In addition, a few other things have to be replaced. Can I ask for the catalyst, among other things, the original invoice regarding warranty and proof, which and that a new catalyst was installed? As I will probably sell the car soon, that would be advantageous if I could prove it. Or can you only get the invoice of the workshop incl. the work and on their work including the newly installed parts there is the guarantee? For the replacement of the catalyst incl. the analysis in advance, 680€ are calculated. Are the costs significantly too high or ok? Greeting Homer

I am currently often thinking about which possibilities would probably arise if a car tyre would always be at operating temperature. Just as a thought experiment, if you always have 80 degrees in the tire, a car should be able to change from the beginning. A car with engine power beyond the 300 KW only on the front axle is, for example, in cold tyres/cold weather/wet road virtually not extendable, even at well over 100 km/h, that should be drastically changed n. Probably the wear would rise significantly or? Some of you really wear much wider tyres (as OEM) for optical reasons (e.g. RWB, Libertywalk etc.) and achieve massively worse lap times, by a very low tire temperature I suppose, would the times to OEM greatly improve? The 0-100 times of each car are also extremely dependent on the temperature in the tire (e.g. New 911 Carrera S 4.6s with cold tyres and 3.6 sbei warm) , if you now if you would always have warm tyres, you should be able to retrieve significantly higher torques and performance even with the same tyre size without having to regulate the car against it. I’m happy about every input on the subject, it just interests me. Stupid comments about this can be kept. If only it would be easy to assess how much the wish would be and what a compromise would be made for it. And that it would need extremely much heat power I can use i well imagine, the cooling by the wind, etc. are certainly not optimal conditions for heating up.

Hello, what does it point out if Lambda and CO are a bit too high? Is a Chrysler 300M 2.7 V6 12/2003 for 10 years with LPG gas system, mileage 223,000km of which about 100,000 on gas. Otherwise find only old contributions to Lambda lower and CO too high but nothing too high. The KATs were checked by endoscope for visible damage, both ok. The certificate shows that the two Vot-Kat probes are ok, right? I understand correctly that Bank 2 with 0.9mV more, Is it also clear that the after-cat probes (monitor probes) are also in order?