Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello people…I hope someone knows it and can help. Have built in headlights with integrated tfl with an R87 module so that the tfl dimming is connected to the dimming light. This also works everything. Only after switching off the engine the tfl will go off after a very long time. The R87 module has to be connected directly to the battery…not to ignition plus…and the tfl will start when I start the engine. The tfl won’t go out because the battery is still out for a gan If there is too high a voltage and the threshold to switch off the tfl is reached only after a lot of time. Does someone have an idea wad you can make? Would another module have bought after what is connected to ignition plus…but there I find only which ones switch off the tfl and not dim. Freu me to your answers.

Hello, I would like to know your opinion on this topic. It is about my vehicle, which is from 2002 and has the release API SJ or SL according to the user manual. The viscosity would be 5w30. My question is. The newer API standard is the SP. Since this is higher quality, it is said that I can use the oil with API SP? I asked the car manufacturer the same question. The answer was “As long as the engine oil meets the API SJ and SL there is no concern for use”: But when I read through the approvals, there is only SP and no others. Then I telephoned with a technician (large oil manufacturer). He said to me I can use the API SP without thinking about it. This is higher quality than the SJ or SL. Man can see this from the second letter. In this case it would be the P. He had to smile and meant the specification gives a worse oil than there is currently on the market. That comes from the 22 years ago the SJ SL were up-to-date. Thank you all.

Since the performance of my air conditioner could not keep up with the high temperatures last week, I had an air conditioning service carried out. There were no whole 370g refrigerants at 500g set. After the service the air conditioning cools again really well, but I wonder something the protocol which was included in the bill (see appendix). Apparently no oil was pumped with and no oil was refilled again. Can this be true or is there no oil in the plant at all? Car is a golf 7 with R134a refrigerant, about 5 years old and probably first climate service.

When I got into the conversation today with a colleague he told me, among other things, that an acquaintance of him recently had an engine damage because of torn steering chain. Somehow we then came to the so-called “freewheelers” engines, in which a valve/piston collision can not happen, but asked us the question in which vehicles these could be installed. One is certainly not, the car of the acquaintance of my colleague – a 1,4 TSI So if someone had something to do with it could be, would that be very nice. The whole is purely for interest, that’s all. mfg

Hello, how much increase in performance does the type-approval expire and where does it stand (law, regulation, etc.)? One often reads of an accepted tolerance of 5% of the information in the vehicle certificate. In the StVZO there is nothing to do with this, except that according to §19(2) BE will be extinguished in case of expected risk to road users or deterioration of exhaust or noise behaviour. Second question: How do §21 decreases occur with higher performance increases of more than 20%? a a TÜVer here and can explain this briefly. Thanks already. Greetings

Hello all, I have in my Passat 3B 1.6 Bj. 99 interference noise during radio reception with running motor. The original radio VW Radio Beta is currently configured with original loudspeakers. In the case of running motor, especially when driving noises are heard in the form of occasional noise and scratching. The noise can not be assigned to any particular cause and is largely independent of the engine speed, steering or e.g. switched on windscreen wipers and occurs in irregular Ässige, short intervals of about 5 seconds. Sometimes the reception is a bit worse in phases over half a minute, similar to when you are just out of reach of the radio station, and then from one moment to the other the next 2 minutes without errors. If you drive on the highway evenly, the problems occur minimally less often than when driving in the city with frequent load changes, brakes, steering, etc. – but can also be imaginable because you When playing cassettes / USB stick / CD (depending on the radio) there are no noises! Only during radio reception and only when the engine is running! If the engine is switched off, only with the ignition switched on, the reception is flawless. The following has already been done unsuccessfully for troubleshooting and fixing: – Installation of two other original VW Beta radios – Installation of a JVC radio – Replacement of the antenna foot against Original VW spare part – installation of an interference filter – testing of the antenna cable with multimeter: no contact of the mass of the cable to the mass of the remaining car, no short circuit in the antenna cable itself – antenna cable with the JVC radio without phantom feed adapter directly into the radio – brand new original VW antenna cable from the antenna foot via the driver’s cabin directly connected to the radio or phantom feed adapter – ground connection from the minus pole battery to carossier tested – is perfect The problem The error memory of the radio shows the following (with the original antenna): 00856 – Antenna: on the radio 36-10 – Interruption – Sporadic As I said, the provisional exchange of the antenna cable did not show any effect. I am now at the end with my Latin. Does anyone have any idea where the noise could come from?

Hey guys, I want to build something on my ZV pump. For this I have to open the two 6 and 12 pin plugs and find the already inserted cables with other cables but I don’t know how to do that, but I have some ideas. The problem is that I have to order everything as quickly as possible, so that everything arrives in time but my car is currently in the workshop and will only be back on Wednesday or Thursday. So I can’t check it out, totally v So as I said, I would have to open the plugs already available and crimp the new cables there. The cables all have a diameter of 0.35 to 1.5mm2 as much as I know. So I would need a matching crimp plier. On Amazon I found nothing, only one on eBay and this one here. From the sizes it fits but because it is a for insulated cable shoes asks me the question, if this fits at all? To open the plug I wanted to When the cables are out, the plug has to be opened -> Insert new cables -> crimp the pairs individually -> close them again. But how does it work? Are there any contacts or something needed for this? I’ve never seen anything like this before and can’t really imagine it. I’d be very grateful for a tip. LG Adrian

Hello, when I deactivate my air conditioning, then I awoke after a short time a rather unpleasant smell from the ventilation. Quite unpleasant, modrig is the most ideal word to paraphrase it. Well, something searched, there seems to have been a “colony” located on the evaporator. I seem to be lucky, because the view in the footroom reveals a screw-down flap at the height of the evaporator. But more precisely, Diavia (No original plant!) wrote to me if di with what do I disinfect the evaporator best? I have found foams similar to a cavity probe: Some hose to mist in virtually everything. Then there are so small cans, which should be operated and sucked through in the air circulation operation. Some avoid spraying everything with Sagrotan. Experiences what is best?

Hello dear everyone! Unfortunately something quite embarrassing happened to me. In my Mitsubishi Space Star DG0 year 2004 the battery was empty (forget the light). Unfortunately, I switched the cables when bridged, there were sparks and the lighting engine fuse (100a in the engine compartment) burned through. I changed the fuse. Again starting aid> > car jumped immediately. But the battery light glows constantly. After an hour the battery has recharged quite well. And I was able to start the car immediately the next day as well. Only when stopping at the traffic light I notice that the battery is quite weak > > > rev indicator always falls to 300-500 revolutions. Maybe the battery is gone after all? But the light engine seems to be OK, otherwise it wouldn’t charge at all, would it? Now to the second problem: The fog lights and fog lights don’t go. Not at all. It doesn’t even light the lamp next to the speedometer. The radio is also dead Although the car still shows the average consumption on the display. As far as I know, this function is connected to the radio. I checked the fuses, for now only optical> seem to be. There is one in the engine compartment for fog lights and one in the interior for rear lights> both in general. Have the fuses nevertheless exchanged> no function for safety>. Is there any other fuse that I might have overlooked? I would see The car is no longer worth much, so I try to do as much as I can on my own without having to go to the workshop. Thank you!

Moin Together, I’m just telling the story, which started at the turn of the year… Actually only the rear brake pads + discs were due on our VW Polo 9n 1.4l FSI, there was also a set of ATE installed in the free workshop 1 without any problems… A few weeks later the brakes started to squeak, partly really bad. Geräde beim rangieren zum ein-ausparken… Then followed several workshop visits at which the free workshop 1, the pads sanded off, new g until the workshop gave up, gave me the complete money for the brakes back and asked me to visit another workshop (who can say the 2x?) So in the free workshop No. 2 at least 1n warped disc was diagnosed, so again a new set of coverings + writing, this time Bosch mounted… Shortly afterwards the squeaking came in again. 2nd diagnosis of the free workshop, the guide bolt zen for the float calipers showed above average a lot of play, so promt changed… Quit still there… Then the master of the free workshop 2 said that it could only lie on the saddles, so we have changed them also, to his offer to get the saddles myself, I got these TRW brake calipers! Result: Now you have to press the pedal at least half, until it starts easy to brake, before that already with the easy stroke of the pedal star k braked… (brakes were really vented at the back + front of course!!) And squeaking still does it of course, quite striking when you sluggish/braking downhill rolling… Now the guess of the master of the free workshop 2 is that it is no longer due to the brakes, *have already changed everything*. ABS system could still be ventilated… And braking does it also do his opinion *good*… Has anyone ever had a similar case, solution suggestions? Who has a trust We rkstatt, quite in the east of the Schäbischen Alb knows (AA/HDH), always with it, there I want to go!! Many greetings Mopedcruiser