Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Moin I am recently owner of a mobile home, unfortunately without cruise control and electronic motor control. With the latter it seems to be no problem today and install a cruise control, with an old VEP, however, all manufacturers seem to have stopped producing cruise control. Has someone here still sold a cruise control dealer with pneumatic VEP, or even one that you can have? Or another good, working idea? All other cars I have to keep my foot in a position for hours on holiday… Moin Björn

Hello, I am playing with the idea of retrofitting my recently acquired BMW E90 with a preheater, as I am not only driving it in the summer and I hope for a longer motor life if it does not always have to be started ice cold in winter. Since preheaters are always advertised as maintenance-free, I have now thought of looking for a used one. But maybe I still need new cables and cables. Is that worth it? the heaters themselves do not cost a fortune. The installation time will probably be what drives the price up. I already ordered offers, I’m curious about what they want for a new heating installation in my area.

Hello to the municipality I have unfortunately also made bad experiences with cargoon I sent on 30.10.2018 to the said company my engine ECU for a W124 and also got relatively fast an answer and that you could repair it.However, Dan had passed a few weeks but still telephone contact the abruptly Dan failed. As with some of you you could not reach anyone more either the phone was off or the mailbox was full and there was nothing more. A week ago I wrote a mail again after 11 months and it came by e-mail a reply I should call under the given phone number to clarify the situation. But? Yes phone either off or mailbox is full again. Thus everything in the old knows nothing about my device and the car is still standing for almost a year Just to puke

Hello, I have the following problem for which I need professional help: In my Ford F100 (Bj. 68) an amperemeter is installed. In Ford the resistance for the amperemeter was installed somewhere in the wire harness. Some had no shunt at all, here the resistance was simply generated by a precisely defined cable. As far as so good…. or not…. The amperemeter (but one of Ford for this vehicle) was installed afterwards, and was never connected. So the wire harness with the shunt is missing. However, if I understood this correctly, it would not be right any more, since the current alternator delivers 130 amps. How can it be calculated now, which resistance I need, so that my amperemeter indicates correctly?? I do not want to install another amperemeter, because the vehicle is in an original condition, which I do not want to change either. Greeting from the Ranchero65 who relies on your expertise.

Hello forengemeinde! I have now also discovered leaking problems with my frontera, but found no leakage so far. On the topic of a leak test there is already a thread, whereby I still don’t know how to do it, especially for the frontera to find a suitable lid and then rebuild it. It is clear that some of the hoses do not make a good impression anymore, are partly cracked and have to be renewed, even if there is no water out there. Where do you get such hoses, which usually have a special shape, length and connection diameter? I am grateful for every tip!

Dear friends of the engine technology, I am thinking about buying a family car. However, I expect that our driving profile will be rather unusual (see https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…of which-a little-short distance-t6674963.html). Let’s assume that every second weekend the car will be moved 80-200 km each (two-way and return journey). In addition, there will be 2500 km within ten days twice a year. Every two years or so, the 2500 km will also be 5000 km. As far as I know, such a driving profile (long distance only) is actually very good for a car. My question is now, how “bad” it is for the car (especially the engine), when sometimes a short distance of 2 x 5 km is driven, e.g. once a week. Is this more of a matter, or remains, for example, aggressive condensation in the exhaust, which makes it wear out much faster? What about other aspects? Are there any other aspects of this driving professional? l a difference between a modern turbo diesel and a modern turbo gasoline with particulate filters (e.g. the BlueHDi diesel and the Puretech gasoline from Citroën). Because of the long-distance and the lower consumption, I would be attracted by a diesel, especially since these are currently (at a Berlingo) cheaper to buy than the gasoline engine, which is only available with 8-speed automatic, and I live in a country where there is no car tax.

For many years I have had a CTEK MXS 5.0 – just like probably half of those present. For years I have been charging my cars’ batteries sporadically (and prophylactically) at times (*) because I don’t drive that much. (*) From time to time = every three to four months. Now I have two cars for one or two years, which do themselves independently when charging: after twelve hours not even the fifth LED – only overnight – lights up after over 24 hours. anden – lights up the green LED. The two cars affected are a Porsche 911 and a Range Rover – both with AGM batteries. As I said, both vehicles (and their batteries) are almost new. With my good, old Land Rover Defender, however, the recharging only takes 3-4 hours. And this also has an AGM battery – with similar capacity as the above two problem vehicles. 24 hours charging can not be, can it? The batteries are not empty. The cars bring n not even a warning message that the battery is weak. And at some point the CTEK also indicates charged: after 24 hours. Powers after Adam Riese >100 Ah, which are impossible to miss. Any idea?

Hello guys, just seen a CarAngel video on Youtube, where he says he sprays his engine room with dilute peppermint and that would help against rats and rodents who hate that. He says after a engine wash, but that’s just one of his favorite themes, maybe goes without. Here someone has said he hang toilet stones in the engine room, just have to get wet always times that they stink. Basically, a certain similarity in the sharp smell is not too leu What do you think?

Hello ( As an example Touran 1T3 140 PS TDI ) After having long been annoyed about the eternal start/stop switch-off, a solution for the problem was developed. After switching on the ignition is switched off Start/Stop. The relay bridges the start/stop switch for 5 sec depending on the poti position. After pressing the button it is switched on again. 3 cables must be connected from the keyboard. 1. + 12 volt plug T18e/18 color sw/gr 0,35 qm 2. 0 volt staker T18e/ 9 Far be br 0,35 qm 3. Switch Start/Stop T18e/ 7 Color rt/gr 0,5 qm These 3 cables are connected to the board and finished.For the small circuit is enough space under the keyboard. Have fun making. Mfg Karsten

Basic question to those who have electrons in the veins: How high does their transition resistances, for example, classify in mass in very good – good – medium – bad – too much in numerical values (Ohm)?