Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, yesterday I had my battery tested at ATU … The year before my battery still had 76% start power and they told me the power was completely sufficient. Well yesterday, about a year later, my battery had only 63% and the rather not friendly ATU employee only said ‘TOT’ … how dead, I asked, asked for an explanation. However, this explanation stayed out, one wanted or could not explain why a battery with 63% would be unusable. Well, thank you, just for the actually only planned oil change now comes now also a battery with .. in addition then also also a cracked wedge belt – (together 210EUR) … Anyway then I decided for the most expensive battery, a VARTA, one wants to go on the safe side and never knows at no-name products just what one gets at the end for a quality. Well, also brands are often me what they have been to me. Maybe I have had this car battery tested then, still thanks to the ATU and the expression says; voltage 12,70V Star power 82% battery good 470A should have found me at the end of the 870A.

I’m going to put this in here, and I hope this should fit in in some way. I heard from the media today about the Brit who was supposed to have cycled 280 km/h:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gKGNzCNSYA How do you rate it? I’ve been trying to suppress my quiet doubts all the time.

hi , my focus goes from November 1st to April 1st to hibernation. In the 5th months the battery should not be unloaded. That’s why I am thinking of buying a battery trainer and then having connected it completely to the current and it always recharges and discharges the battery. It usually charges with 300 mil A and discharges with 100 mil A. That’s not much. Is that enough to bring the battery well through the winter without causing damage and thus flurid or What do you call it? Is it enough to disconnect the mass cable or do I have to disconnect it completely? In the appendix, a LINK from the selected device :www.ebay.de/itm/12-Car-Car-Battery Trainer-Battery Charger-NEU-94132/250900750853

Hi I want to make a clear list who belongs to whom and since I don’t have all the chains in my head I ask you. The list should also serve the Enlightenment because I was rather shocked to learn that there are different chains of direct daughters. So what about independence? Michelin = Euromaster + MLX partner companies Goodyear Dunlop = Premio + Quick Bridgestone = First Stop Continental = Vergölst Pirelli = Pneumobil + Driver Nokian = Vianor Apoll o Tyres = Reifencom Online + Branches I want to hope you can contribute something like this to the education of consumers and hope for a lively discussion!

Hello, I have a Hundai Altos coolant loss. Thickness and compression have been tested and are OK. The water pump is supposed to be new. The engine gets very hot already after a few km. the hose between thermostat and cooler – large circulation – also. The cooler stays cold however! Question: can it be that the cooler is clogged? The car stood long unused and has a lot of rust.

Hello, I was a bit busy with oil processing some time ago, in the context also with the use for energy production and in engines. From then on I still know 100% that a combustion and no explosion takes place in the engine. Now yesterday I discussed with two friends about what led to a bet. Now I have been looking intensively for an hour and nowhere found an explanation that would suffice. s with our bets not because you can find a post for every opinion. I hope, here someone knows the topic and can give me a reliable source for: “Flame front speed motor” (read 25 – 30m / sec. but in a forum) “Flame front speed combustion” “Flame front speed explosion” Thank you in advance! Greetings, Marianne

Hello, I ask consciously in this forum about and not in the Corsa forum to get more helpful answers. I drive a Corsa B with about 279,000km on the speedometer. The car has a very spongy driving behaviour for a long time and vibrates from 100km/h, because the front tyres have a high impact. In addition, the rear axle bearings are defective. Yesterday 4 new winter tires came on and since then the car pulls from 70km/h quite jerky times to the right and then again to left. It’s very bad at ground waves, then the car pulls almost always very jerky to the right and shortly afterwards to the left again. As if I were driving slalom. The steering wheel stays straight the whole time, so I don’t steer at all. In addition, despite new tyres, the car still vibrates from 100km/h. I went straight back to the workshop. They checked all the bearings (now for the 5th time). Except for the rear axle camps everything is fine. My question is now, can the rear axleslag I don’t want to have the rear axle bearings repaired if the problem isn’t gone after that.

Hello too. It’s about a Diavia retrofit air conditioning system. They were still common 20-30 years ago and my vehicle also enjoyed the grace of such a system. Two weeks ago I had the system refilled. 820g were filled in. (Standard manufacturer: 800g +/- 25g). However, the cooling effect was modest and the pressures in the high and low pressure part too high. Short contact with Webasto (they took over Diavia) took place, because of humidity the pressures were too high. I bought the spare parts. Now I was there yesterday to have the gas drained. The device pulled out only 510g. Then the mechanic immediately panicked, Mr. jeh, this system is enormous leaking! That raises doubts with me. Why? – Is the short hanging on the air conditioning unit (it was maybe 10 minutes) enough to really suck off the entire amount of gas. Say: Remain somewhere left in the dryer, compress or etc.? – Between the filling at the beginning of July and the installation of the plant there were 15 years… in which it lost 600g. Now it should have lost 300g in two weeks? I am also a bit unsure, can it be that it is leaking. Which leak detection method turns out to be the most reliable in experience? – Nitrogen? – UV lamp and additive? – Sniffling device?

But I read in a brochure of the Porsche Cayenne, which in many model variants uses an electronically controlled lamellar clutch for the four wheel. This can be done as well as with a Haldex clutch. The rest of the technical description in the brochure can also be used as a description of a Haldex. Porsche gives a name to the child (also in the ESP etc.), but ultimately it is but the same thing, no matter what I call the child now. Corrects me, but did the technology of the lamella clutch and Haldex get the knight’s blow or did Porsche install the super duper mega Lamelle and virtually reinvent the wheel and make it even more rounded?

I have a roadster with 2.0Ltr OHC engine with Weber double carburetor. On a ride the engine just started to spit and pop like wild from now on. The engine pushes back to cylinder 3 over the carburetor (normally it just sucks and creates vacuum). If the engine is to bring power and more fuel comes into the cylinder, there are even misfires from the carburetor… Can someone tell me what that is or could be? Is the damage expensive and can it be repaired ?