Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I and my father would like to install a Start/Stop button system, I am a car and NFZ mechatronics engineer and know me well with electronics and electrics. Well, I/we have decided for a Start/Stop button which includes a safety circuit that you can not start again during the running engine. Therefore, I bought a Start/Stop button from SLPRO at ebay. Unfortunately, the English manual is poorly translated. nte, I used to connect it to a 12 volt power supply to measure when where current flows. Once it worked, but now the switch doesn’t do anything anymore. Since you can also integrate the Start/Stop button into an alarm system, I’m not sure if I now have a think factor. Since I don’t know where to connect it to a cable. So my question, has someone already installed such a switch here? on the pictures the system is itself and the V cabling instructions to see. MFG

Hello and good evening maybe a somewhat unusual question. I would like to point out in particular that I have put “mechanists” in quotes. I am aware that I will not become a mechanic and that I will lack the expertise. However, I keep it short and come to the point immediately I am very much on the current concerning technology. Work even in the IT field and electronics is a term for me… However, I have to admit that I do not really have a real ahnu ng have been interested in cars and their mechanics, but I am very interested and fascinated by them. Even an oil change still poses a challenge to me at the moment =D Not to mention repairs such as clutch changes, timing belt changes etc (this is exactly what my wife’s car is about to do). I would like to do much more on the car and become more confident. Whether it is “sensible” minor repairs or toys like tuning etc. The question is how? Are there alternatives to a car? r complete basic training in the car sector? Is there such a thing as seminars or possibilities to get to such knowledge? I always read in this or other forums, but many things are often still too “special” and difficult for a layman to understand. Do you have any tips? Thank you in advance and many greetings, Dominik

Good evening, I ran through my cellar archive the other day and found an interesting test report from around the beginning of 2000, in which the pollutant emissions of various motorcycles were compared with U-cat and carburetor and with G-cat and injection system. I noticed that with the models with Lambdasonde (i.e. G-Kat) one drove extremely rarely on Lambda 1, apparently only in the test bench run, which caused a then ruched engine run. In this respect, the market is slowly getting moving in the case of micro-units (the exhaust emission standards will soon be greatly tightened). There are already various 49 cm3 – four-stroke engines for the two-wheeler range, which have a lambdage-controlled injection system. Now I have compared the consumption values of such constructions with those of previous carburettor models (with uniform pressure carburettor, which have to be adjusted in the fat range, as it is known, around 0.9) and have come to the conclusion that ke The suspicion is that small engines are generally less likely to travel in the stoichiometric range, or that they can be better driven with a fatter setting? Is there any experience that shows that smaller units are more likely to start rucking, with the same Lambda value? Or is one simply using the at the moment still lax exhaust gas values for a mixture setting, which is as often as possible maximum fat (and thus maximum performance-promoting) off?

Hello everyone, sometimes a general question – how strong can the so-called petrol or diesel become if one would suddenly close the intake area? I ask for that, because I just want to know if one could choke off every motor by air, but with the closing of the intake tube only with the bare hand, or if there are motors, where one should not do it, because the so-called too strong and the hand would suck in or break down. Is there a strong underpressure?

Hello, I have a question, I bought a car 2 1/2 months ago at a car dealership. They gave me new Tüv etc. ( 4.500 Euro) Auto: Opel astra h 170 ps 2l turbo Sport 93,000km Yesterday I left my car with them two times “reparrien”. At the first time, my front driver side door should be repaired, as the window did not close anymore. I also lost cooling fluidity(allegedly by a matter bit) Furthermore, I have in the car a gesta nk noticed that always occurred after the start or after a few minutes for about 30 seconds . As a reason I was told the leaky hose .. well took the car then . However after a few days you started problems again . Therefore I drove to those 2 weeks ago , I should leave the car with them on 05.01. and they will do it already .. So the defects were again: cooling fluidity lost – again the excuse that the hose has been bitten through . Smell in the car was still standing. Ah, and the window could only be done with the help of my arms. The mechanic of the car dealer said that everything worked wonderfully.. so the window went without problems, and he only “oiled” it (no idea what the stuff is called). And that the stench comes from the particulate filter( Can be with me several times the exhaust gas indicator light. Which, strangely enough, no longer shines.. he said that I should clean the particulate filter.. because probably Now I notice what’s wrong with the clutch.. Meanwhile I think that the car simply got the Tüv sticker.. without checking anything. Did I have the car completely checked before me Opel, but qie is the legal situation if the car has many defects??? Who must pay it then I or The car dealership.. Have another 2 1/2 months guarantee on the car.. but hold the normal.. May I just check the car elsewhere.. n let?? Would I be very happy about every answer. PS: Write with the mobile phone as I am not at home right now, so forgive me for the many spelling errors. mfg dania

These questions are only for professionals in the field of air conditioning. I know that you can’t empty an air conditioning system for environmental reasons, but I have a purely question about it. As I know, the refrigerant in the compressor is still liquid and becomes gas-shaped in the condenser and runs as gas through the dryer. If you remove the dryer now, the gas will escape logically. Is the system completely empty of the refrigerant, or is it still in the liquid state? The car is a Saab 9-3 and in the whole system, according to literature, there are 150ml of compresor oil and if you change the dryer, you have to refill 30ml of oil, because this amount is lost by the exchange. Where do you fill in such an oil? Is there a filling hole on the compressor for this? Can you take any compressor oil, because for Saab I can’t find one directly.

Dear community, is there a way to bring the humidity inside a vehicle to a pleasant level, which is then also kept? I thought about 40%-60%, as it is also the case in normal living areas. Due to the normal air conditioning the humidity is removed from the air, so that the humidity in the summer already after a few minutes is about 20%, which leads to extremely dry eyes, which can become very unpleasant. For example, can you adjust the air conditioner accordingly? Thank you and many greetings, Mark

Hello, there has been the EFB electric parking brake for some time now. In my research, I found that one should only use coverings for EFB. When looking closely at coverings for EFB and normal, I had to find out that these do not actually differ. Where is the difference or the necessity for special EFB coverings?

Unfortunately a complete automation would not be implemented with Excel, this either exceeded my skills or the possibilities offered with Excel. In the appendix times the sheet. No wonder there are not nice diagrams to be seen and also the table with the results seems to be very manageable on four lines. This has of course its reason. Erteres the storage space. Since coupling processes are considered and it is here fast to insoluble vibration n comes for Excel, the time interval of 0.001 s is accordingly short. Since the sheet is often up to 260 MB large. However, if interested I can gladly submit some examples, For: – Audi RS4 4G – Tesla Model S – motorcycle and some others, then of course with the corresponding diagrams in the “table diagrams” and the comparisons. The model takes into account: – different and freely adaptable engine characteristics from Otto to the electric motor – static and or dy namic slipping – one and off-coupling – all rotating masses – switching latency, depending on the type of coupling for the gears different – axle load displacement – dynamic half-knife, depending on the axle load – tyre air pressure for the axle load dependent lift value, as well as roll friction value – different tyre loop curves for tyre width, guide values or the substrate properties such as apstain, sand, snow, etc. – air resistance depending on temperature and height – the motor It can have been a mistake again and again, four eyes are better than two, I have eliminated the coarsest so far, therefore backmelds are desired not to be overlooked: – control processes and thus vibrations – damping factor, which are time-shifted and represent equal vibrations. i.e. during switching process the wheel brakes abruptly within a millisecond from e.g. 6600 to 4500 u/min. What is inplausible high acceleration forces caused by the rotating masses, but as these occur only one millisecond, these have no relevant influence on the entire calculation. As it has become late, I ask for indulgence regarding my grammar. Link due to the size only externally:https://www.dropbox.com/s/p8t9k7mn5925531/PKW.xlsx?dl=0

Hello, let’s assume, I buy a very young car, e.g. 3 years with 30,000km. And let’s take it at the previous owner has done pretty much everything wrong with it, what you can do wrong – the first few thousand kilometers not gently entered, a lot of short distance, never warmed up, etc. Is then the fate of the engine almost already sealed? So as a second owner I have at all a chance even with best care, to keep the engine alive for a long time, or is t because in these 30,000km so much has been done wrong, that the fault points are already so blatant that it doesn’t make a big difference anymore how I deal with the engine?