Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, have “new” bought a Polo 6N2 and unfortunately had to find out that I have a problem with the power supply. Although the battery is not yet a year old according to the previous owner, I have stayed down. Starting aid was enough that the car ran again. In addition, I charged the battery with the charger. Apparently, the charging was not enough. The next breakdown came. Also the purchase of a new battery did not bring any improvement. This caused suspicion of the alternator. Allerd The voltage was not sufficient when the engine was running. So the alternator definitely no longer charges. However, the old battery had to contend with lack of acid, which was more likely to close to overload. Does anyone have tips? Can it be a cable error (e.g. with the excitation)? Can the voltage regulator be replaced separately from the alternator? How do I check whether the alternator or Regle r are defective? Tips on cost savings are especially desired, because the car is the first for my son who is still an apprentice. Greetings and a happy new year wishes Thomas

My 638/2 – Vito 114 – V230 – from 1998/1999 has fat exhaust gas, stinks back to fuel. Candles are all 4 nice evenly deep black rusted. Since new candles are in from the day before yesterday the white steam is away from the back, or much less, it pulls again more evenly, it still stinks quite. So it becomes with AU or TÜV nothing. I now want to renew LMM and Lambdasonde. Probe was original from Bosch for 40 Euros. That can be taken one time. LMM buy is no problem – looks the same everywhere, there are from 25 eurons. BUT WH is the thing ???? On the suction tube between air filter and carburettor is a probe, which I would recognize as LMM, looks like a hot wire air flow measurement. BUT after I finally found this probe on the Internet, this is a temperature probe for the intake air, and no air mass measurement. I can’t find another probe – especially not one with a piece of pipe, as they overball to k can anyone help me ??

Hello, have the following problem on the Skoda Fabia 6y5 , 1.4L 16V 55KW, 8004 ACH, Motor BBY, Built 2006, 89000 KM, monitor probe according to Kat does not work. I have already replaced this with a Bosch, the error persists. I also made sure that the probe does not come into contact with copper paste. The Before Kat probe is Ok according to AU measurement. Fuel consumption is as always. Mixture is neither too fat nor too lean. The probe voltage on the two white cables of 12V is also due. Signalka bel black and grey have passage to the control unit. An error was now in it for the first time, LMM unplausieles signal! Where can the error lie? ECU possibly defective? Greeting Thomas

Hello, I have a question about the automatic transmission. Currently I have a VW Polo 6N2 and an automatic converter in it. Unfortunately, there are hardly any more in the new cars today, but there are new ones. I am currently looking for a new car with automatic and therefore do not want to make any mistakes when buying… – An alternative to the automatic converter is DSG (new VW Polo) correct? – Is “ActiveSelect Automatic” (is available with some Opel Corsa) also an alternative? At least from the control lever it sees immediately a us… – Easytronic (Opel Corsa) is counted as automatic, but seems to be more an automated manual transmission? Is it supposed to jerk, which is no longer like the automatic converter? So I would have to look for a car with DSG or ActiveSelect at the moment? Or are there other cars that I haven’t noticed yet? Thanks already! Jule

Hello together, I drive a Citroen C4 from 2011 with almost 100,000km. I now have the problem that at Stop & Go traffic the clutch pedal starts to creak after some time and comes back harder or hangs. Then make as nice hopser as if you let the clutch come too fast. If I don’t have to step the clutch for some time then the problem disappears again. Does anyone know what that could be?

At the moment I have a 5W30 (or 10W30) in my Toyota Aygo. However, very little of it. There was nothing left to see on the trackstick. I would like to drop some oil. At home I bought a good 15W40 (actually for the beetle, still new and unopened). My question is – can I refill with 15W40? Or should I just change it completely? What’s a bit surprising – the oil was last changed in September 2018 and I ride about 1200 km a month. otos: one from the instructions for use of the car and one from the oil. In the instructions for use it is clear that 15W40 with API SL is in order. On my oil is also API SL. The question is whether mixing is possible?

Hello, with the Valeo alternator of my Audi, it’s clapping, I’ve already changed grinding rings, regulators, rim disc and two bearings and it’s still making the noise, what else do you think can be the cause? I’m also sure it’s coming from the alternator, because I bought a general overhaul and it doesn’t happen, but with the general overhaul it whistles, so also not quite fine. Actually, only the stator should come into question, but still wanted to n Ask your opinion before I buy it. Mfg

Hello dear people, I looked at an Opel Astra J 2013 at the FOH today. I’m not sure if my assessment was correct; however, I was a little scared about the condition of the brake discs at the price of about 9,000€ (about 90TKm mileage) (also the front tyres had virtually no profile, well). I have attached some pictures, maybe you can confirm my perception. Thank you in advance.

Hello together, short distance is deadly for the diesel engine as well as for the stationary heater, which works as an auxiliary heater. Mostly I drive long distance. Is there a way to disable the heating function of the auxiliary heating, if you already know that it is short distance? I drove on the WE to tinker out of the garage, even then the heater jumped in its auxiliary heating function, only to switch off shortly afterwards – have been only 10 meters with gradients. Somehow without OB D possible? I set the SH in the instrument cluster on ventilation, but still the heater starts. There is a bit (I don’t know in which control unit anymore) that encodes the heater as an auxiliary heater. What would happen if you removed it? Would the heater then be “only” gone, so that you would have to switch on by means of a button in the interior or remote control? If the latter is possible, there is a difference in cold engine between “turning on the SH as an auxiliary heater” and “Insc Would the SH start in partial load mode instead of full load? Would that make sense if one had to consciously choose the SH? Are there any differences in consumption? (Skoda Superb 2 Combi, SH Webasto VEVO ex works)

Moin bewerte Gemeinde, I am not sure in which forum I should post the topic otherwise, so I try it here. I have completed a Bachelor’s degree in Bio after Abi and am currently in a Master’s degree in Bioinformatics I have now determined for myself that I do not get happy in this area (spaete Erkennung, I know), and I want to start a training as a KfZ mechatronics engineer at the next possible time, because there my real interest The question that I now ask myself: are future employers deterred from doing so? The training as a KfZ mechatronics engineer still seems to be one of the most popular. I will try one way or another, but I would still be interested in your opinion.