Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello dear screwdriver community, I have been looking for my mind for some time. For occasional repairs also in the circle of friends and acquaintances I always search the corresponding torques for the screws that I have to do with my repairs. Since the vehicles always differ and always something else has to be repaired, Google (maybe I also search wrongly) doesn’t really help. My question: Is there a platform / lexicon or similar where I find r the corresponding car in the best case find an explosion drawing where the components and also screws with the tightening torques can be seen? How do free workshops do this? Use the software for this? Which are running what costs? Hope you can put an end to my search. Thank you already for your efforts

Hello together unfortunately I am as a loan with my latain at the end howl………. My g20 6,2 diesel no longer jumps on despite new starter and battery. Since in the last time I had extreme start problems at the end he jumped only with bridging thought of I ok battery defective. so new battery installed, nevertheless after the preglow sang the voltage at the start up to 3-4 volts. after that nine more lasser destructed. wiring to possibly short circuit measured all caliber ok. NE UE BATTERY NEW INLASSER new mass cable for the starter with bridge from a running motor the same problem. start pre-glow voltage about 13-14 volts after the pre-glührelais clicks and I activate the ignition also breaks the voltage again up to 3-5 volts. has someone had this error also already already ? has the pre-glührelais or glowing candles something to do with the starter or starter ? does not know any more and get the car logically now also in no workshop u nd am really more than desperate. hope can possibly help with a further or give good tips. many thanks to you in advance ………

Hello together, I have already asked some car mechatronics, hobby screwdrivers and also two engineers from the TÜV, but no one could answer my question. So I signed up here in the forum to use your swarm knowledge. The end pot of my Fabia has a sheet metal outside, which is already completely rusted away. However, it is still tight and also the volume has not changed subjectively. TÜV also got my car with it. A friendly car mechatronics he said to me that this is the case with many cars and that I can easily continue driving with it. Is that really so? And if so, why is the end pot covered with this sheet metal, which is obviously not made of stainless steel, like the rest of the exhaust? I’m curious about your answers. LG Michel

Hello! With a vehicle (not mine), the coolant temperature indicator, as far as I know, has 6 LEDs. If the engine is in a warm state, normally constant 3 LEDs light up. For some time, probably at lower outside temperatures dropped off and the display from three to two LEDs. At some point, it rose again to three LEDs. I therefore suspected a defective thermostat. Now, among other things, the cooler came new, new thermostat and new coolant temperature sensor. The new thermostat is the same as the previous model and is definitely the right one – the cooling system has been properly ventilated – No oil in the cooling water and no cooling water in the oil, no smear on the oil cover – No heat loss on the oil cover – No heat loss, no heat loss, no heat loss, no heat loss. rising bubbles in the cooling water with open balancing tank and running engine – heating gets warm – no errors in the fault memory – fluctuating cooling water temperature is also visible when reading the data with a diagnostic plug during the ride Do you have a guess what the cause might be? Is it just the outside temperatures? Simply ignore? It is by the way a Citroen C3 from 2003 with a 1.4l machine (TU3JP).Thank you for your assessments.

Hi all, I recently drove a BMW 5 with ACC. In this case, you can switch off the ACC with longer pressure on the distance adjustment keys and drive with normal cruise control. I’m looking for another brand that can do that – or is it a BMW Privilieg? As far as I know, no VAG vehicle can do that and also the Daimler can’t … At Ford you can set it in the menu, but you can’t switch it as comfortably as at BMW … soon new motorized greetings Touri

Greetings, since my knowledge of Krummer is rudimentary, I prefer to ask the question publicly. Question: Which lock screws / nut and from which material helps, that they do not resolve again when mounting trouser tube & Krummer with metal seal 🙂 The facts are simple: Trouser tube to Krummer was screwed together for time reasons (AU appointment the next morning) with common 8.8 lock screws M8x40 and common nuts M8 and it also held about 50km. Then it held. As wonderful as the snoring sound may be, I would like to have it fixed properly. I am aware that crackers and trouser tubes are getting hot, an expansion and a pull-up is taking place when cooled down. How is this compensated in the original condition with standing bolts? Are these only the enclosed discs and copper nuts? Since we have drilled out the 3 torn stand bolts and replaced with lock screws, I hope to find a screw solution, What’s your advice?

With regard to measuring spindles as on the right side of the picture, the online trade (everywhere where such a spindle can still be found) thinks it is for measuring the frost protection in the cooling circuit. Just one copy I have ready and recently (last 2 days) used it for testing the frost protection in a car where G48 / BMW LC87 is used. Measurement shows protection from frost lower than 40 degrees – below scale. That is what raises questions. In November BMW-Werkstatt in the cooling system has the Frostschu The final 3 refills were made with Glysantin G48. Something is not right with measurement, only.. what could it be? Fear of using the car now, the concentration should be really so high. Fzg-total history does not include a renewal of the cooling fluids. tz measured to level 35 degrees. Just before the workshop appointment the liquid had to be refilled, Dest.-water was used, up to 250 mL. After the workshop appointment it needed to refill again, a total of 2 to 3 times. All that is known in this respect to the owner, at the same time user, are the above mentioned refills. Incidentally, measuring the frost protection with the other spindle on the enclosed image has brought about approximately the same results.

What do you think of this?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSi6J-QK1lw Today, the shock absorber systems in many vehicles consist of front and rear shock absorbers, which are attached to the underside of the vehicle. Thus, the developers were able to install the BOSE® suspension system with little adjustment effort into existing vehicles. And this also means that it is possible to use the BOSE® suspension system in existing vehicle concepts instead of conventional shock absorbers. front modules of the BOSE® Suspension System use a modified McPherson suspension leg and the rear modules a double transverse handlebar to hang the linear electromagnetic motor between body and wheel. Rotating rod springs take on the static weight of the vehicle. In addition, the BOSE® Suspension System uses a vibration damper on each wheel to keep contact with the road. Unlike conventional shock absorbers that pass vibrations to the body u and thus reduce the comfort, the vibration damper is not directly connected to the body and thus ensures maximum passenger comfort.

The days I wanted to finally put my tweeters in Holubal and align them decently, as they are currently lying loosely on the dashboard. Now, of course, the question arises; how do I fix them so that they can hold them, but if necessary they can be removed without residue? The surface in my A3 8L is also relatively rough, with “rills”. Can take a photo tomorrow. That is a liquid glue would put itself in the cracks. I think of something like Powe rstrips or real silicone. Secondly, you should be able to remove eig. on one piece. Do you have better ideas?

Hello, how much volts should a new battery have at least? I ask because I bought a new starter battery yesterday, because my previous one was so weak that after about 30 minutes of heating the cars didn’t want to start any more. The old one was about 5 years old. I bought a 75Ah now and had my multimeter this morning. Had driven for a while yesterday and then switched off overnight. 12,4 volts. Shouldn’t it be anymore? O I’m wrong about him?