Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello ! A short question for you: Does it make a difference for a dealer for a car sale, for example, whether a belt or a control chain has been installed with a petrol engine? This question is independent of the manufacturer and a certain model and rather general nature. So it is sometimes more positive with the selling price, if the vehicle is e.g. approx. 8 years old, approx. 70,000KM has run and instead of a not yet changed timing belt a not yet changed control chain installed or is and if so, why is that? Thank you and greeting Marwief

Hello together Have read many good posts in the forum and therefore turn to yourself now 😉 My problem is, I would like to learn car screws. Each time I see the costs for an inspection or repair and then research the part value on the internet I get a big neck. Since I enjoy cars and technology in general, I would like to learn how to do some things on the car itself. On the ToDo list there was something like: – Exchange light bulbs n – Exchange brake pads/discs – Exchange spark plugs – replace this **** spray nozzle on the rear window But also with the time (longer period) further work on suspension/motor/gear/lighter (so far as I can judge if someone wants to hit me with the used car purchase over the ear). Well, the thing is that as a beginner I have no idea where to start ^^ Especially with regard to brakes and safety-relevant components, I am in front of That’s what I want to see a few times before I do something like that myself. Where did you learn to use car screws? What I’ve been thinking about so far (everything should take place in the Greater Munich area): – Join some car screwdriver club. Unfortunately, my search on the Internet was unsuccessful. Although there are a few car clubs, the meetings are more likely to drive around than screw. – Visit courses (ADAC, etc…). *Hust* Not even found anything. – At any work instead of asking if I can work with them free of charge every Saturday. Tow/stack/change tyres half day and learn something new half day. What do you think? What are your experiences? Thank you already ftiaronsem

Hello, the starter of my vehicle from Bosch with the part number 0 986 021 230 has been getting heavier and heavier in recent times despite the full-charged battery (feelingly, it takes twice as long as in new condition). Perhaps it is because oil may have run in from a leaky suction bridge. My idea would now be to overtake it, according to Bosch there are also spare parts, unfortunately I find neither in the Bosch catalog nor in the Internet parts for the starter. ? Or should I exchange it immediately for new ones. The price would be about 200 euros. Thank you!

Hello and good day I have the basic question, what to hold of the different suppliers/manufacturers of discs and coverings. So far I have always bought ATE. Is this exaggerated and what do you buy ? Surely there are parts that come with different stickers from the same production. That is in other areas – e.g. refrigerators – also so. There have already been messages about wavy – warped discs. I have never had that before. R

Who can give exact details of how the starter battery can be charged on the Tiguan 5N without expanding the battery. A CTEK MXS 5.0 is used as a charger. Charger should be connected, as described in the operating instructions CTEK and TIGUAN. Charger-Plus to battery + , loader-minus at ground point on the left leg of the spring. What precautions – measures / settings must be taken on the vehicle to prevent damage to the on-board power management?. How does the charger start after the mains light display, if the program mode for normal batteries is chosen ?. Must the bonnet be closed before the start (actually forbidden!) to complete the vehicle ? With the charger detachable batteries have been charged perfectly. TIGUAN- Data: Month/Year 05/2009 KW/PS 103/140 Type/TSN, Tiguan 2.0 TDI DFPF 4Motion Automatik/AKS Many thanks to the specialists for profound answers 2.00tdi

Good evening, I bought a used BMW 118d (E81) a good 9 months ago. Unfortunately I did not consider that I mostly drive short distance… – 3/4 times a week 3-7 kilometers per track. – irregularly about every two months 40km or more. The car is standing outside and just during the last rather mild winter, it hurt my soul when I started the engine.. Now the car has its 100tkm down and the battery is over and must be replaced (and the Li chtmaschine maybe also – tomorrow I get news from the workshop) I have actually already thought about selling the car again and buying a gasoline of the same model. However, the effort and the additional costs speak against it. What do you say about it? Now I have read about such an electric engine preheating. Should I then put extra power outside and always connect the car to it?

Air conditioning works perfectly satisfactorily, but see picture. How can this happen and what kind of problem does that indicate?

What is the best way to oil car locks so they don’t freeze (as happened to me recently)? I found out by googling that household oil is not suitable because it obviously resins. Some people probably use graphite, gun oil or ballist oil. Maybe motor oil is also possible…? Which method do you think is best? Greeting Roland

Hello guys, I bought a vacuum cleaner and an air compressor for the cigarette lighter on the I-Net. Vacuum cleaner worked well, no air came out of the air compressor, only the one from my tire…but that’s the little problem. The part broke my cigarette lighter fuse. Also no problem, new fuse in. But since then I notice funny noises when I turn the ignition key 1. It makes clack clack before the engine starts. I mean v If I only turn the ignition key half-turn so that the electrical system in the car goes on, a buzz from the engine room comes all the time, when you open the bonnet, it is inaudible. As soon as the car has jumped on, the engine noise overtones the buzz. Have tested all the lights, climate, windscreen wiper and window lifter etc., everything works so far. It also does not light up a warning light. But I mean this clack clack before starting the mot ors, and the summing from the engine compartment I had not had before the attempt of commissioning the air compressor over cigarette lighters. Mitsubishi Space Star of 2015 can be imagined like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4RTtFZMb88

Hello I drive a VW T5 Built:2005 2,5 TDI, and drive a lot of short distance. This creates a mud emulsion. Since this is not necessarily good for the engine, I now have the question: Are there effective additives that prevent this sludge formation, or at least reduce it? Has anyone had positive experiences with such additives? Any recommendations?