Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello all, I’ve done a test drive with a new Mazda 6 (2.2l diesel, 150 hp) and a Mercedes (C 250 CDI, 204 hp, BJ 12/2012) in the last few days. I noticed that the Mazda was quieter when starting (in the course of the start-stop automatic) than the Mercedes. The Mazda dealer explained to us that the engine runs out in a certain position so as to “better” start again. With the Mercedes it sounded like when starting. Is the technology of Mazda the better or more How do the other manufacturers (BMW or Andi e.g.) make them? Are there advantages and disadvantages to the different systems? Greeting, Andi

Hello together through my Zk weckersel oil is supposed to have come into the cooling medium. In addition through def. oil cooler has come again oil into the cooling system. VW has cleaned with its own medium cooling system but still get oil into the cooling medium. It is black oil and no white mud. Compensation tank is below red and above full oil. VW has pulled the system and it was no pressure loss to notice, so dense. Now I want to rinse the system myself. What should I rinse with and where should I wash the I don’t want to use detergent because it can foam later. I don’t want to buy the detergent from ATU should have a bad call. What suggestions do you have? Would you like to sell the car and therefore it should be technically ok and also be bought without any concerns. MFG NIHAT

Hello, there is an indicator in the car that lights up when the battery is discharged. In the quad I do not have such an indicator – but on the ordered digital-tacho a corresponding warning light (only LED and symbol, no technology). Now I wanted to build the circuit behind it myself, but am not quite sure how I can do this most skillfully. It is clear that the LED with the ignition is switched on and then has to be switched off when the LIMA the Battery e load – so far quite simple. But how do I notice that the LIMA load the battery? 1. Possibility: the board voltage exceeds 13,5V (shows that the LIMA works). Ok, that should be feasible — however: should the consumers pull more power on the quad (illumination etc.) than the LIMA supplies, then the battery would discharge but the display would remain dark. 2. Possibility: a diode between LIMA and charging controller, so that no power comes from the battery to the + pole of the battery and d then at the LIMA directly the contact to turn off the display on — problems: the diode would have to have real eggs and also the problem with the too large consumption as at 1. 3. An ampere meter, which can show both positive and negative current. Analogly, there is the yes. Digitally, I have never seen it, but if there is such a circuit, then you only have to pick up the switching contact at the place where the current between LIMA and battery is 0 or just vo n Battery direction LIMA flows… But does anyone know such a (simplified) circuit? 4. ??? Is it even easier?

Good evening together, I don’t think I had asked that yet, but the other day I got a book about racing suspensions, which says that racing cars don’t have rubber in the chassis. In the case of road cars, between bolts and eyelets, the handlebars are lubricating agents (captivated by a rubber cuff) and a layer of rubber or polyurethane. I thought it was a bending joint. Lubricants push themselves in the long run, and must be re-verted by the wide movement of the suspension. Polyurethane could be a little feathers there. So if you drive quietly over a smooth road. At the first pothole then the Hafabreibung breaks off and perhaps some polyurethane out (wear). Or is it only about dirty hauschdammung without any synergy? I still dream of the wear-free suspension. I like the bending joints in the F1 and the these mirrored leaf springs in carriages. With such a full-fledged chassis with Stabi and Lenkun g there are so many joints. The interlocking rear axle is a real ray of light. Do you also like the leafed headdresses with 2 joints per spring and the 5 handlebars rear axles? And then I read a patent, where someone proposes a ball-bearing ball joint. But that’s not really true, is it? On the 2 wheel the steering axles are ball-bearing. I would like to have such a light-winged steering on the 4 wheel. Does this have any car? MfG Arne

Hello guys! I drive a 1990s Toyota Celica 4WD, with permanent all-wheel drive, distribution gearbox with Visco clutch, 50/50% power distribution. Here more precisely: http://gtfour.ch/…/prozessue.php?… Was last on the brake test bench, the car stood with the front axle in the test bench, the rear axle stood on gravel (was outdoors). When the wheels set in motion, the standing rear axle did not move any mm as if it would not be driven. Then as the rear axle at the test The test bench didn’t turn very fast, it didn’t last long. Furthermore, the tester said that the cars can’t handle this and that they can’t turn to the opposite direction, because that’s how it works. If my car was standing the same way, there was no reaction at the VA. Well, the question: how does it work? According to the tester, his test bench wheels are rotating at the same time, but I’m not sure that you would see that at the brake values, the brake does not brake equally well in both directions?!? I can turn the cardan shaft very slowly with a lot of power without the front wheels wanting to turn. I don’t get it somehow, how does it work? Is this drive really permanent? Can something be broken there, can I check something? Can the cover-free visco coupler (actually lock) be broken or worn out? How can I control this? Please for help, Mfg Chris

Recently my four-year-old daughter was first on the car and hung on the rear windscreen wiper of our Honda Stream. Since then it doesn’t work. I tried to unscrew it, but I don’t get so far: When cover and screw are removed, everything is so tight that I don’t get it nudged. I’ve already used so much force that I was afraid of damage. What can be broken here and how do I go? The engine obviously gets electricity. Sometimes it wipes about a e quarter turn. The whole rod is attacked by rust and I wanted to put it on trial…maybe the current non-function is not my daughter’s fault after all. Lieb Gruss Oli

Hello, I would like to know if you can still drive a Super 95 car at minus 30 degrees? Do you always have to stay on a vehicle like this? 1.) Can you turn spikes into a car tire yourself? 2.) How fast can you drive there? 3.) Are spikes better than snow chains? 4.) Should you put spikes on all 4 wheels? 5.) How much spikes are required per bike? 6.) Where do you place them best? 7.) Are there certain tires or brands? 8.) Are there different spikes, which s Should you use it? 9.) Is there a tool for this?

Hello, I dropped an old car battery today and the housing went open. There is something white (fabric?) to stand there. There also something brown to black ran out. My question would have gone on now. I’m really afraid that my garage will open in flames LG Berkos

Hello municipality, today my new brake discs have arrived. But after I opened the package I got a shock. The brake discs have a running direction. As shown in the picture it is 2 left brake discs. Or do I see this wrong? With the right brake disc the holes would show in the wrong running direction! Do I see this right? Am I already thinking about sending the brake discs back. I am grateful for tips Mfg Michael

Hello, maybe someone can help me or give me a tip. With my polo (already 10 years old – but still good) I had the gas fields of the tailgate changed in late summer. 2 Stabilus Lift-o-Mat were installed. At first I was thrilled – but now I almost regret the change. As soon as it is a bit colder (goes already at about 5 ° C in the plus area) the tailgate closes extremely bad. You have to thunder down quite nicely to get it locked in. If you have this there nn has done a few times, then it is strangely as before. Has something been done wrong during installation (something to adjust etc.) Who knows advice Thank you