Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello together, What’s your experience with 95 petrol in cars with chip tuning to continue driving? Of course not always, but only in case of emergency, if there is nothing better (98 octan or better) in the range. Is it OK for cca. 3300RPM or cca. 130km/h highway speed? I drive an S4 B8 3.0L TFSI supercharged and I’m looking for chip tuning offers. It’s also my long-stretch car, and a 98 petrol is not always available everywhere.

Moin. A diesel engine is known to be much slower warm than a gasoline engine. One reason is that the diesel engine generally has more mass than a gasoline engine. However, that is not the main reason. The main reason is more that when combustion is less heat than with the gasoline engine, which I do not understand at all. Diesel has more energy per litre than gasoline, because the energy density is higher, so less diesel can be injected into an engine than in a petrol engine and despite the diesel has a lot of power. But now comes the point that I don’t understand. Why is there now less heat than in a gasoline engine? Example: in a gasoline engine is now injected so much gasoline, that exactly as much energy is now available, as in a diesel engine diesel is injected. And the combustion of the diesel runs however, less warm off, than in the gasoline engine, although in both engines now exactly “same” energy available I hope you understand what I mean. And by the way, I’m new here, so please don’t be surprised if anything is wrong here.

My new used 2.0 TSI Passat Alltrack 35Tkm DSG 7-speed has this already feelable in idle and then up to max. speed slightly to moderately increasing / really uncomfortable ! Tires at the front new, back from last year / everything re-engineered (but: this is already there in idle !)… Ideas ? Help ?

Moin Moin, I left my Ford Focus last night at the Ford contract workshop and threw in the key. Date was set for Friday. Actually wanted to pick up the car until max 1 p.m., because I need it for work at 13.30 (deliver packages). The aggregate belt should be checked/checked, because it made squeaking noises in cold condition. At 11 a.m. the workshop calls me and says the belt and a tensioning roll must be changed. emen is already starting. Cost point 300 €. I give it ok and he says he will make it by 1 pm. 10min later I will be called again and I am told that the spare part is not in stock. Would only be there by Tuesday at the latest. I think great. I would have had a tour on Friday, Saturday and Monday. Altogether I lost almost 300 €. So I wanted to have a rental car. But that also only for 20 €/day and with 50 free kilometers. That doesn’t bring me anything. Our. At the prices I drive for free. Had actually hoped that I could get the replacement car at least for free but then Pustekuchen. Why take off the belts if you don’t have the spare part in stock at all to carry out the repair? He wouldn’t recommend straps on it again or only under exclusion of warranty if something happens then. So 300 € lost earnings and 300 € for the repair does 600 € damage. Do you find that so ok or how would you have I was the first customer there, so the car was always on Ford’s service before.

Hello, I need an additional power connection in the trunk (for radio). Have already read a few topics and also watched videos, how to put cables. But still I have questions. – How much does it cost to have something done in the workshop (very rough) – there are cable sets, which already has a fuse and does not need a great tool to connect? – Where with minus the mass? I hate to do it directly to the body, so simply to the minus po l the battery?! Have you done this before and can you give me tips? Please take pictures of it. Greeting

Hello ! I lent my car and it was all right . When it was returned to me , the gears were very difficult to switch and with noise . The lender noticed this , but thought it was due to the cold . The car would have driven normally and when he left in the morning it would have been like that . The mechanic now told me , the clutch was gone , it was burned and broken . He says the clutch must have been badly treated . Repair costs over 60 0 Euro. Can it have happened as the lender said ? So that he is not to blame ? Will do no one wrong , but the mechanic says it can not have happened like this . It is a Peugeot 107 with 54000 kilometers mileage . Can someone help me ?

Hello, I hit the bonnet last year due to a confusion of an uninvolved person (bunch). Of course I immediately apologized to the person and informed him that I will pay for the damage. About the liability the person did not want to let it settle. Therefore I will probably have to bite in the sour apple and carry the damage itself. A simple repair of the bump is of course not possible. (Annotation of the person and their mechanic) Disweg My question is: “How can I ensure that the bonnet has actually been replaced, and not only the dent has been bulged?” Furthermore, the person demands an expense compensation, as well as an impairment compensation. The expense compensation is fine and is also understandable. However, I think that the cost compensation should be paid for the entire bonnet. I hope one can help me. If I have taken the wrong topic forum, one of the admin can move the thread yes. If you are not able to change the name of the topic forum, you will be able to change it.

Hello, especially Cabrios show that the crash safety can still be fulfilled without any problems. A waiver of the B-pillar would result in better use of space and a better overview. In addition, of course, their optical appeals. Today, bodies have been manufactured for a long time by mixed construction methods. For example, the body is completely made of aluminium, the A-pillars and the other frames of the front window, however, made of a high-strength steel alloy. Opel Meriva brings Schmetterlinstüren with them, which open up opposite to Rolls Royce. If one would now leave the B-pillar out, that would be a completely new room concept. My picture example shows a coupe, but here too must be given de Crash safety and that will definitely be it with Mercedes! So why? Cost? I’m sure that the rear doors have to be hung up somewhere. But with opposite doors you could easily do that. iben is still available, as can be seen here at the E-Class Coupe. The manufacturers often show this in studies, but in series I am not aware of a 4-door vehicle, which does not have a B-pillar. As I said, the rear door could also be hung up in the area of the C-pillar, or B-pillar, if the vehicle does not have one. The doors would then open opposite.

Hello, dear motor-talkers! Yesterday I tried to free my little Smart from his parking space filled with snow. Of course the wheels immediately went hopelessly crazy. However, since I didn’t have my mobile folding snow shovel with me (), I still wanted to try it with gentle back and forth weighing… unfortunately unsuccessful. Since time ran out and I urgently had to go to the service, unfortunately also the frustration rose. Frustrated and in the hope that I did not do doc But instead of moving, I suddenly noticed a biting stench, which spread out in the interior. Shocked and to catch at least the next bus, I immediately broke off the maneuver and turned off the engine. Then, of course, the big riddle guesses began in the back-stitch, where this stench might have come from. My first thought was the tires. But could d he rubbers already reach such a temperature after such a short time of turning through on cold ice/snow that they start to stink? My next thoughts then became worse and worse… Gears/converters… The most interesting thing about the thing, however, took place only today. I was traveling today with my father and his Mitsubishi ASX (manual circuit) and we also got stuck. Even after a short time, after the wheels went crazy, I took almost exactly the the same smell true as yesterday with my Smart. So it’s the tires that cause such a smell even on ice-cold snow at minus temperatures after a few seconds of flipping?

Moin, as briefly described herehttps://www.motor-talk.de/…/…at-or-was-others-t5075597.html?… I have ruined the cooling water connection of the DSG oil cooler at Passat B7 due to stupidity. They are unround and I prefer to buy a new one. Soo exactly I get the only with patience round again or not at all. “Previously” I have fixed/- sticky cooling water hoses (here diameter approx. 2cm, sit almost 8 years firmly) either round-side running down with a screwdriver If or when it was possible, a screwdriver carefully extended something. Both did not work here, so, like “formerly” also , I carefully tried to rotate the hose at the circumference on the stun. In doing so, the stun moved at really only medium scraping effort itself and I left it immediately . Only at this time I had pressed the stun in diameter already slightly oval and at overpressure one to five thin coolant jets out 🙁 With solc I didn’t count for the trumpet sheet: So there used to be no such thing!!! 🙂 How do you correctly remove such hoses from the sockets nowadays?