Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Moin. Suppose you park on a slope and insert the 1st course. But now the car rolls backwards and the engine turns against the normal direction of rotation. What happens then? Does nothing happen, or can something break?

Hello Here a few infos Ask me if this is normal. 206tsd km m57n2 motor. Olabscheider 13tsd km old. Oil only changed before only 12tsd km in it. Agr deactivated. No noticeable oil consumption. On youtube some think this is normal. Adhesive valve shaft seals or underpressure pump… I attached a video hope it goes Thank you

I’m looking for a mobile charging station. ‘mobil’ means taking energy from its own built-in source (battery). It is intended to charge the starter battery in car, type AGM, before and after cold season. Car is in use during cold season, only the driving profile may strain the battery very hard. At the parking space no socket ~230V. Take the starter battery out of the car, then carry into the garage/cellar for charging, does not work because car on guarantee. Not really resourceful. Fritec boxes show striking rate of negative reviews (Amazon or something). Truly not available on the market?

Hello to the technical experts, can someone tell me how big the current can be, which I can extract from a lead acid battery? Specifically it is about a Blue Dynamic from Varta with 44Ah, in the data sheet is unfortunately only the cold start current specified. I want to operate the battery on an inverter, therefore my question. Thanks for every hint.

Hello, the motor oil (Mobil 1 New Life) which in a Mondeo Mk4 2,3l petrol tank for about 8000km and one year had been analyzed. The result was: Iron and copper slightly increased. Normal wear of copper bearing materials (lead bearings) and metal components or components. Slightly increased fuel content in the oil. Viscosity has decreased compared to the fresh oil. Viscosity is outside the limits of the SAE V valid for the specified oil type. iscosity class. The base number BN (indicator for the alkaline reserve) has decreased compared to the fresh oil. Therefore, the oil can neutralize less acids from the combustion process. All other determined data lie within the permitted or expected values. According to the data, the oil has already been changed. Iron 19mg/kg Copper 12mg/kg Aluminium 3mg/kg The vehicle with currently 98,000km is usually on short to medium distances and almost exclusively in low D rehzal range ( <4000U/min).

Hello diesel driver, because of the decreasing diesel quality I have also become a pantscher for a few months. I do not want to doubt the old-spread recipe of the 2T oil. It certainly has its right as a tip, since so many diesel drivers already swear on it. I definitely test it, but will take the exhaust gas values under examination. If nothing negative shows up in the exhaust gases, I will certainly also pour in a portion of it. Paraffin is a component in lamp oils (petroleum), which mix well with diesel. Unfortunately, the scent of a scented petoleum is largely lost. However, what is difficult is to find a lamp oil with the highest possible paraffin content. As the lowest noticeable dosage I have turned out to be 1:100, but at the moment I drive 1:50 and the engine runs like a silkworm with clearly clean exhaust gases, which is visible to me. In addition, however, I still have an addition of LiquiMoly or ERC in it to increase the number of cets and have added a tested care component – almost as an additional insurance. But it will also be interesting to leave them out. What have you already tested? Plant oils also go, of course, but I want to consciously avoid them.

Hello together, has someone already retrofitted a coolant level sensor here? I think the forum here is better suited than the Fiesta Forum, because it is a general question. I imagine the following dimensions: Ignition plus goes to a level switch like the “APA coolant level sensor”. This is screwed in the bottom of the coolant balance tank. (hole drilling, inserting threaded socket, sealing, screwing in). The level switch should be closed as long as it has to be closed. The sensor opens if there is no more coolant and switches on a relay which gives the warning signal. So nice, so good. How would you solve the warning signal? It is a Ford Fiesta MK7 (Facelift) with the 3 cylinders 1.0 Ecoboost engine. Ideally, I would like to cause an error in the engine control, how could you simply solve it without causing any damage? Provoke the emergency running program best. Or simply put a summer in the interior of the vehicle (somewhere hidden in the footroom)?. For ideas and suggestions I am open! Thank you and greeting, Lukas

One often hears, nowadays cars are designed for a maximum of 10 years. After that, they break down. Is that true? If not, which used/models of which manufacturer can still perform their good service even after 200000 km. How long and under what conditions? Would be grateful for competent instruction. P.S. I would like to have an off-road vehicle. But I am open to all models all the way.

Hello together, I hope you can help me. I have an alternator which ran by July last year with a Hella 5DR004 242-06 controller. After I no longer got a charge voltage, I changed the controller for another one. I just found out, however, that the light mesh (if no customer is connected) brings 60V, it may be that the controller is already defective again, or is there another explanation for this? If the controller is defective again, so I also wanted to ask if the frequent controller defect can be due to the LiMa / if I can check anything here that constantly destroys the controllers? I would be very happy about your answer.

Dear friends, when it comes to automatic transmissions, I am the type of converter. Yes, it is said that they are “smoother”, not so directly, rather to cruise. But I am also rather the cruiser, who swims with the traffic. I’m more concerned with the lower maintenance requirements compared to the DKG. Now the question, whenever I look at a car, is only THAT it is an automatic. If you are lucky, the advertiser writes how many gears. Especially with Benz you can recognize it sometimes at name e.g. 7G-Tronic. But how do I recognize whether it is a converter automatic or not. So far I went and studied every car in question on any pages, forums, technology archives etc. Is there perhaps a kind of donkey bridge? A decisive detail that the gearbox immediately betrays as a converter? Can one make flat-rate statements like “until year xyz was ALL transducer, DKG came only from year xyz” etc., something like that?