Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

My Mercedes-Benz Vito Tourer W447 from 07.2019 came to me with H7 light. In 2021 I had converted to “OSRAM Night Breaker LED-H7” which according to the manufacturer should bring 220% more light (compared to the minimum standard). The upgrade was an improvement, although not completely satisfactory. But OSRAM was at the time the only legal provider for my vehicle. In 2022 the “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 H7 LED”, which is supposed to bring 230% more light, was released for my vehicle. In the meantime, the “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 Boost H7-LED” was also released for my vehicle. This boost variant is supposed to bring 300% more light. Now I wonder if a further upgrade would bring something. Does anyone have any experience in this regard, i.e. has someone from the first-generation Ultinon converted to the Ultinon in the boost variant?

In the Opel Astra j 1.4 directly in the cooling water thermostat is a heating directly in the opening element. It was explained to me so if then gives up the thermostat so that the warmer cooling water in the interior would mix with the cooling water in the cooler and thus the engine should burn even colder. That would also save fuel. I now have some doubts about this explanation. To one mad time discrepancy until the cooling water actually changes its time, this the The cooling water temperature is adjusted, then it would take again until the cooling water in the small circuit is warmer again and if it is ready to drive again. If it runs stupidly I would drive with it always in an unfavourable temperature range. In addition, the combustion temperature of air temperature, fuel temperature and Lamb Since determined, everything else yes yes less influence, I think even if on average the metal of the engine plus minus a few degrees has no influence at all on the combustion temperature and consumption values. And let’s assume that I have a performance zenairo like with hangers up the mountain and I am anyway above the temperature value makes no sense this solution at all. In my whole circle of acquaintances I only harvest headshake. Is this a purely Opel specific construct or have such a This reads like marketing speech, how in the TV sales channel this one tool replaces an entire tool box. But it doesn’t make any sense in reality, If I would calculate this or simulate it I would be sure I wouldn’t have a chance to work here Is there anyone here who knows more about this?

Hello, the rear brake pads grind during the ride, the brake pads don’t go back completely and the disc is already slightly red. What do you do in this case? What do you do in this case ideally? Do you want to make the brake pads and the caliper work again? Decompose and clean the caliper, is that enough? Or is this procedure better? : Press the piston back and push it out a few times. Should this not work,Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep. insert pistons into the caliper and when everything is re-assembled. Air the brake system and renew brake fluidity. Who has experience with it? And do I need Bimmerlink to drive the electric parking brake back for the action? Thank you

Hello dear people! I looked at the oil of my Mazda 323 yesterday and found small silver and black particles in the oil. I then screwed down the valve cover and it was totally soaked with pitch black grit, so several millimeters thick, I guess. Partially 5 millimeters thick and more. I think this is condensed oil. I touched it at a particularly thick place, and I had stone-hard little crumbs in my hand. Like hard coal the feeling has t. The area in which the connecting rods and the plumbing springs are were also black, but not so thick. On the inner wall of the cylinder head were also stone-hard black crumbs. I think that these small “coal stones” get into the oil cycle and are rubbed between the engine parts. And then small metal chips are sanded off. I think that’s why I found small black and silver particles in the engine oil. The engine oil was also quite dark brown, although I first saw it. My question: How bad is that? Is it enough if I continue driving the engine and keep changing the oil about every 3 weeks? I drive to the metro, where I can suck the oil free of charge. I pour half a litre of 50 % 15W40 and 50 % diesel in the engine and let the short chucker. Then I suck the oil off. Then I fill 3.3 liters 15W40 in the engine and leave the short tuckern Then I suck off the oil again and then I fill in 3 liters 5W40. And I drive with it again. Can the oil deposits in the engine oil dissolve in the course of time so sufficient that no silver metal splinters are rubbed out of the engine parts anymore? Should I remove the black grit from the valve cover? Should I also try to clean the area with the connecting rods and valve springs? Should I also remove the oil pan and the black grit, which is probably can’t you drive the engine for a long time? Or is it already too late? I bought a valve spy or a probe lesson and tried yesterday to control the hydros. Unfortunately, I didn’t know how to do it. In advance, thank you very much for your answers, Walter.

Good luck, I have an idea in my mind on my bus. Like all older cars, it has an indirect instrument lighting with light bulbs that illuminate the entire speedometer. However, there are plasma dials that glow directly. So that the needles for speedometers, rotary zalometers, fuel meter etc. can be seen, I want to paint the needles with UV light shining varnish and light up with UV LEDs instead of light bulbs. Has anyone already done something like this? Which LEDs would be suitable? How much mW of light output do you need and where do you get LEDs that don’t glow violet, but only emit UV? Thank you Baumi

Hello, in my car the window at the driver’s door didn’t open any more. When I was there to the inspector, I also mentioned the window that I wanted to fix it again. When I picked up the car, everything went again. But after 4 weeks the window didn’t open again. The next day it went on its own again. But now, after another 4 weeks it doesn’t go again. I drove again in the workshop. There they told me that the This would cost 200 euros. Then I asked what the last time it cost (I thought I didn’t have the bill any more) , I was told that it didn’t cost anything, that there would be 0.00. But at home I found the bill now, it says: Door panel unmounted and built in, window lifter loosed and fastened. 75,00 Eur o. (I assume that they didn’t deliberately lie to me, because this text went over 2 lines, at the end of the first line was 0.00 euros and at the end of the second line the amount was only.) If I put my car in the workshop to have it repaired, then I will also be able to fix it and not only temporarily hold it for a few weeks. On the other hand, I assume that 75 euros is also appropriate for such a work, which have finally built up everything and so on. .. Or? What do you think? Greeting 🙂

Hello experts. Here’s a report about which it is worth to meditate. Vehicle is a VW Sharan BMT 170 hp from 2011. Power loss and jerking sporadic. Gradually put off symptoms. Workshop read out several times without finding out. When it was time again directly in workshop without having to take out. 1 week troubleshooting later the diagnosis. Water in tank, dirt in tank. Fuel filter clean but renewed. Diesel sample Yellowish, foamy, with black particles. Marder damage Kraf fuel return line. Cost point of the invoice 850 € without further results. What do you say about it? I find this somewhat questionable. Bad diesel can definitely be excluded. And diesel stains under the car also (garage car). Fuel is the same tank for all cars. My guess is paraffine after service life or in the tank something dissolves!?

Hello, since no one in the Fiat Forum gets in the right way, I try my question here. The following: I have a Strada 1.9D year 2002. This drives without any problems, only when switching he holds the rotary zal too long up so that there are more shift trucks in the lower gears. This is especially annoying when you turn on a parking lot and then kick the clutch to hold on. Or when you drive over a parking lot and then kick the clutch. People look then Always, as if you were too stupid to drive because it still holds the driven speed for about 2 seconds. If you give gas in the stand it reacts a little delayed so probably with the gas acceptance and also gas removal. If it is cold, the problem is rarely present. Does someone here perhaps have an idea how to turn off the behavior?

Hey people I have a problem and hope you can help me. I have a plus and minus signal, and would like to switch a relay with this signal. So far so good. My problem is now that the signal is a dimming signal that means when I connect the relay it closes tick times until the signal is completely gone. Thus the relay almost welds. The signal comes from a computer in the car, signal is plus and minus 12 V DC, it is supposed to switch a larger circuit, foot space beleuch I don’t have a relay yet because I don’t know if there are any ones that open and close properly with such dimming signals. The signal is strong enough to afford up to 20 watts. Thank you already Have a solution? Is a 12 volt circuit Thanks already people MFG Florian

Hello people I have the following problem I am on Saturday evening when turning in a parking lot against an island with a high standing curb (right front tire). I drove obliquely against the curb so that the tire turned almost to the right. Then I drove of course on and had to find out that the steering wheel is slightly to the right about 4-5 cm. I looked at the rim after a few meters times but there was nothing to see any scratches or Dell First I did some (idiotic tests:-D) as if the car was driving normally and braking without touching the steering wheel to the left or right which it did not do. Now I have the assumption that it is not the track that has turned but that what has been seriously broken and it has not been done with track adjustment. Now I just wanted to hear from you experts or from some of you who have already had the experience what can be broken before my father drives my car to the workshop. Hope you can help me Thanks already 🙂