Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello Motortalker As reported before, I had (have?) a problem with the power supply of our Tigras, which is not willing after a little longer service times (was?) to start his service, just no longer sprang up. A new battery became due, after relatively short time span. But now he made the same trouble again, which then had to have without doubt with a creep current or a permanent power withdrawal of a consumer. Only by chance had I now discover that the light hadn’t gone out in the trunk, although the boot lid was completely closed. No, I didn’t have to lock myself in the trunk ;-)), I had to remove a rear light and then (must) be able to see through the holes that someone had forgotten ;-)) to turn off the light. Question, can such a permanent light (10Watt) really pull a battery out so quickly? Now I have to find out what caused the continuous current, s a pressure switch should be available (not yet found) which could be considered a causer. Thanks for a few infos on the topic!

Hello together, for two years I have been developing a Mercedes Benz LF409 as a camper. last year I installed a solar system. I used the following components: – 3 x 100 Watt solar modules – this solar charging controller – this solar battery Only three consumers (LED lamps, radio, USB charging socket) are attached to the battery, which are rarely used. The battery almost always had a charge condition of 100% (except during the winter, since it had completely unloaded). I heard from the battery a quiet hissing and then noticed that the battery was probably running out. Next to the battery there was already a white mass (pictures of it are attached). When I examined the whole thing more closely, I noticed that under the lid squeezes out liquid (hissing), which runs down sideways (also of this images are attached). Since I am an absolute layman in this topic, I would be grateful if you could tell me now what the lie to and what I should do now. If I have forgotten important information, please point out.

Hello to each other, I bought a car 3 months ago. The thing has a lowering. I like the look very well & it sticks in the curves like a GoKart. But what bothers me is the comfort of the chassis. I don’t know if I’m simply overly sensitive, but for me it seems really hard. If I don’t see the potholes coming to me at the moment, it can pop for a short time. In addition, I have my hat rack, which is quite clattering because of the game. Somehow feel I have installed the following springs: Vogtland/Gutmann mark Distance, wheel centre wing edge at the front: 340mm rear 350mm Do you have experience with these springs? Is that normal that sports suspensions are so hard? I have been in other cars that have that in it myself, but I found it more comfortable. Is it possible to make these softer? Friendly greetings

Hey, I’ve looked at some videos for cleaning/renewing the brake and the procedure is partly different. Unfortunately, people often don’t explain why they do something. My question now concerns the brake cylinder and the guide bolts. Should I clean the brake (it squeaks sometimes) also the guide bolts. Why not? With what should I lubricate the bolts? Brake anti-quiet paste from Liqui Moly I would have already there. In a video ha I have also seen that someone takes lithium grease but with 120° resistance it seems to me a little undersized. Should I lubricate the brake cylinder? If so, can I use the brake anti-quiet paste? Why not? Thank you for your help!

Hi, I bought a stainless steel exhaust and would like to exchange the tailpipe. Since I have no sweat experience myself, I was with an acquaintance and wanted to “press his eye” 😉 He meant if he welded it with normal welding wire rusts all the fun. (that was also known to me as a layman) What he could offer me would be Mig soldering; in this case the wire would be made of brass. However, he did not know whether this is suitable for exhausting. Can you help me further there n? Is the whole thing leaking? Does this last? Does it come at some point? After all, Son exhaust is exposed to thermal stress other than a body sheet. …I don’t want to mess up my stainless steel exhaust. I’m grateful for all the tips.

Servus together, I have a question about braking airing. Recently I bought an electric venting unit from the company Manotec and worked with it for the first time yesterday. A Opel Movano B was ventilated. It worked wonderfully in itself, but after the venting the brake pedal had to be “pumped up”. That means it fell until shortly before the ground and came back again. With every single pump it got harder and came back again and again. Overall I have the approx. five times gemac Ht and now there is also a nice pressure point. It also brakes perfectly. The ABS also works. After the test drive with ABS brake I aired again, but the same behavior. The car drives and brakes perfectly, just like before however I wonder if this pumping is normal or can still be air in the system? Did anyone ever have that? Thank you very much.

Hello! For a given reason a question: Who has little distance to the chassis through wide rims / tyres and how are the experiences with it? I enjoyed new rims and at the front axle only 2mm space between the chassis and tires. However, this narrowest spot is exactly where the rubber is sitting at the rim, so I have much more space on the tread (tires are a little narrow for the rim and thus conical to the outside, so called TyreStretch). Laws from AT, D or CH, but around reports with such short distances. Is a (very high-quality, but also extremely light) rim in the upper range with hard brake or steering maneuvers? What about the rubber? It is a 235/40R17 from Yokohama on a 17×9+35 rim (builds very wide)? Does this move a lot? Please for reviews. Thank you! Mfg Chris

So I wonder if I can still save the battery so far to be able to use it as an emergency reserve for start-up aid, 12V source in the basement. 2 years old Varta E39 Silver dynamic 70Ah, side small openings to the gas, under the sticker are the well-known locking plugs to recognize 1 year ago it was 2 times deep discharge on 12 V by defect/defect current in the car. After that inconspicuously. From autumn I noticed that the charging condition became worse, the battery took more and more unwillingly the charge and stopped it less. Feel-good window at 67% charge condition. Charger said full at 82-85% charge level. However, with charge over 8 hours it was 100% full. Now on 100% charged, then waste over 24h to 12.02V. After further night (10h) 11,61V. This is the actual condition. Car has already got new battery bought. I would instead of the recond mode, should not be used at AGM actually, decide to a normal charging process, but then with maintenance charge I don’t have to give it to myself. I wouldn’t do it in the basement, but I don’t like it in front of the front door or on the terrace. Can that get on fire? It takes too long to monitor it nonstop, I want to sleep… Opinions? Ben

Moin, I didn’t know much about vehicle technology and I didn’t do much about tyre, light and battery changes myself. My girlfriend’s car didn’t jump anymore and since I bought the CTEK MXS 5.0 for my moped, I thought I was just trying to recharge the battery. The battery is certainly ancient, but since the ads have still lit up and the car “hut” I thought it was worth a try. She hung 6-7 hours on the charge and the charge At the end, the battery has also shown that the battery is fully charged. After installation, however, the car has still not jumped on. Now I wondered if the battery can be so in the bucket despite 6 hours of charge that the charge is still not enough. Maybe someone would like to explain this to me for a moment.

Moin to all inventors, I hope for your help with the following problem: Recently I installed a China air heater 5 kw. Problem No.1: the exhaust pipe gets so hot that it probably melts the seal mass and gets rid of proper smoke, even in the passenger compartment is diesel smell. Problem No.2: partly drips out a lot of diesel outside. I hope you can help me further. Greeting Enrico