Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello to each other, the topic often happened in the past, but people were talking about more than small phrases that I don’t even get dealt with. I have been driving a car for a few years now, now an old Bmw 5er but I still because of almost every little thing in the workshop which is too expensive for me in the long run. I try to narrow down the mistakes as well as possible by hanging myself with my laptop on the OBD socket or google on the Internet after the problem. I often also come to a result but then it usually stops with me. What I get: replacing radio, changing tires, changing air and interior filters as well as illuminants on the main headlight. I know about many components and partly also the functions or at least I have heard of them and know what they look like or where they are. So more theoretician than the practitioner. For example, I recently had a crack in a hose. I had found out where the r Hose sits on the basis of pictures and a part catalog but I did not dare to check the hose because I would have to remove a larger cover, a filter box and 2 other hoses. I am very unsure because I am afraid to damage something, to forget or at the end everything is not assembled anymore. My intention is not to revise my engine, but I also lack the possibilities of some things I would like to do in the future in self-direction du I don’t think that’s too much to ask for and do. Only how do I get there? On the Internet there are instructions or instructions for almost all matters, such as: – change brake pads and perhaps even disks – come to the throttle flap or the LMM (speak clear the way) – remove the door boards and contain – connect the amplifiers and install the cables through the interior – retrofit small things and tap off current from existing cables (electrical exterior mirrors) I think that’s not too much to ask for and do. at least helpful people. Nevertheless, it fails with me because of the implementation and perhaps also because of the basics of the screw. Do you perhaps have tips for a hobby screwdriver who wants to focus exclusively on his car (except for the specific specialist literature that does not help me)?

In my study book diesel and petrol engines are divided into 4 assemblies and auxiliary equipment (see pictures). I find this somewhat confusing with the diesel engine. For example, in contrast to the ottomotor the assemblies are not marked fat. The 4th assembly with the diesel engine is called “fuel system with injection equipment” with the components: – fuel pump – fuel filter – high-pressure injection system (e.g. common rail system or pump nozzle-Sy The first 3 modules in the diesel engine are “motor housing”, “wheel drive” and “motor control”. The components were not named, but they are the same as in the petrol engine. Do I understand that correctly?

Hi, my new vehicle has a on-board computer, which also indicates the current fuel consumption. I know that the things can’t measure the real consumption 100% and the inaccuracy is also relatively large, but I don’t quite understand a few things. If I’m standing at the intersection and I’m idle, the consumption goes up — L/100km. Makes sense, the vehicle is standing and it can be calculated value. But also means, in reverse, that the gasoline I use at the St. If I just walk away from the gas and use the push-off switch, it shows 1.0 L/100km. The manual doesn’t say anything about this, but 1.0 seems to be the smallest value the on-board computer displays. The consumption should actually be 0.0 here and that could be shown by the on-board computer? The car does know whether fuel is pumped or not? Or does the on-board compu have to be loaded. Is it only the sensor that determines the flow rate? (does this be measured?). When switching off thrust, the car really doesn’t pull a litre of petrol, provided I don’t get into a certain speed range? The display confuses me a little, because it suggests a consumption. I don’t know if it really uses 0.0 here or, for example, 0.9. Can you find out at which speed range the push-off is deactivated and fuel is sharpened again? not the idle speed, with I think 1,500 it shows me a consumption over 1.0 again. (Subaru Justy 1.0, 993cm) But that also means in reverse conclusion, if I am in the thrust shut down and not consume anything, but it indicates 1.0, that then with these 1.0 is expected? mfg

I’m planning 2 longer journeys >500 km with my not very economical 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T. I want to get to the finish as cheap as possible and also buy a slightly longer travel time. So I’m probably driving at night with cruise control at about 120 km/h, because the on-board computer shows the lowest relative consumption here. Does it make any difference what fuel I’m fuelling? Thank you very much!

Hello, I hope that I am right in this forum – Transport & Safety – and that I had to replace the standard horn (Golf IV) with the following.http://www.valkmotive.de/…/419 It is loud at 1m distance 118 db and in the shop it says “The horns are approved for traffic, the European approval number is E4 000 317”. Does this mean that I can simply replace them with my old ones without registration or similar? And how much amper needs a normal horn? Thanks Greeting Julian

Actually simple question: How do I drive as sprite-saving as possible? Looking ahead is clear, speed limits also hold, at crossings and traffic lights with push-off and with slight gradient gear out (if in the highest gear rolling is not enough anymore) increase air pressure slightly. Light running oil. At level crossings a few hundred meters motor completely off and roll up when it is red. Keys of course do not pull off because steering wheel lock. That was so the points that first in my mind What can I add? Can I modify something else? Is there anything else with the driving method? I am currently experimenting a bit and want to try if I can drive our 150-hp-diesel Zafira (2006er) with less than 5 liters. Currently already with winter tires. Is a good experiment because I think that I can take the 3-4 minutes more on 30 minutes and the purse will thank you. I will certainly not prevent anyone in the traffic, Apart from the people who drive up to 70 meters in front of the village sign still 100. With the last tank filling I brought it to 5.7 liters, but there was also 1xdpf freeburning and about 90-100 kilometers with 180-200 on the train. Sure, that will certainly not be easy because a Zafira yes aerodynamically has a bit of wall cabinet. Oh yes, I also have a bet on the running, if I should make 1200 kilometers with a tank filling (58 liters + filler nozzles) there is a al gratis tank full of workmate! He drives the same model but with the 120hp engine and says it would be impossible to drive under 6 liters. Thanks already! Greetings, Leon

Hello dear community, I drive a used Opel Astra J Bj. 2015 with an air conditioner. When I had moved the car in winter and had practically only the heating on, sometimes also the air conditioning (when the windows were fogged), there were a few small unsightly muffiny smells in the interior. In the spring it became worse then, so that I changed the filter and cleaned the capacitor by lance in the passenger room with a foam disinfection (the disinfectant) El ran out under the car too, so it doesn’t seem to be clogged). First the whole thing improved, but it got worse again. After that I did the whole procedure again more precisely and used the Sonax can afterwards. Unfortunately, I noticed again that the problem (muffy smell) was not completely solved. When everything didn’t help, I drove to the Opel workshop, where I leafed over 100 euros for a complete cleaning (Aircowell). With a high pressure lance the evaporator was disinfected again and all ventilation channels were cleaned. Unfortunately this did not help and at my pressure, the procedure was carried out again, this time even the access to the evaporator was exposed so that the back was sprayed. After some time I can now say that also this did not help. More precisely described it smells during an switched on air conditioner rather less, but it comes after which the Klim a system either switched off and the ventilation starts to run or at the next start of the car with constantly switched on air conditioning. If you drive all the time without air conditioning, the smell is not perceptible, you could say that the smell always occurs after using the air conditioning. The ventilation entrance is free and the condensation water also flows out of the car. I would be very grateful if any of you had experience with the topic and possible solutions we ß. Greetings

Good evening, short to me: I am still quite young and would like to get a pickup after my first car (Honda Civic EJ9). The problem is: Pickups are either rocked down, overpriced or company cars (we all know how to drive them). Now to my question there are maybe a few pickup models that are a bit cheaper or Kombis/Suv which I could make a conversion. I have pretty much what on the box. So I would trust the conversion. That turns out mi r just one more question and how the approval technique works. So whether there will be big problems. It would be great if there is someone here who has done this before. Thank you for your time.

Hello! Since the air conditioning system for a vehicle has not worked for a long time, an air conditioning maintenance was carried out in a workshop. The workshop had to suck the refrigerant off immediately, because a filling valve is probably defective. At home I also found out with a UV lamp that at the front of the capacitor a little (not much) contrast agent can be seen. Therefore I want to renew the filling valve and the capacitor. It is for me the first time, since ss I am working on an air conditioner. It is emptied as written. I have already built out the filling valve and made the cap on the closure of the line. Do I have to pay attention to something special? Is it necessary to lubricate seals with air conditioner oil beforehand? Is there anything else? I have read somewhere that nothing should contaminate the system. Should I possibly also prophylactically renew any seals that like to break? And, the important If I have installed the air condensator, how long should you take maximum time to fill the system? I remember that the dryer pulls moisture. Are 2.3 days of distance too much? Thank you in advance for your answers.

Hi I searched my capacitor today with a UV lamp and found a strong green fluorescent spot in the lower open area. This place is about 2.5 X 2.5 cm large and there are also several small places under the UV light to be seen, but not larger than 1-2 mm. I once unscrewed the caps from the valves and there you can see on the edge under UV light also this green contrast medium, think that the rest of the filling are. in the condenser, or can it be also dirt or insects and if it is contrast medium, would that be already scrap ? Below times 2 pictures. Greeting André