Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Dear friends, Is the theory that a smaller engine is more economical in all areas of work than a larger one? I know that different cars/engines have been built for different purposes. A smaller 1.0L Hyundai i10 will definitely consume less in the city center than a large BMW 5 Series 3L machine, which swallows even more in idle to keep itself alive. Again, the 5 Series 3L is made for the long distance. Here it rotates at 160km/h. ch cozy 2500 rpm, while the little Hyundai 1.0L screams his soul out of his body and asks for salvation. But here I think more of the comfort idea in the foreground. A large long 3L limousine is designed for quiet, comfortable long distance even at good speed. But whether the 3L engine in this territory is also more economical?! Example to compare apples with apples: A 1.0L engine (no matter the brand) at 50km/h A 3.0L engine (no matter the brand) at 50km/h Here I guess That the smaller engine is definitely more economical. In particular, I imagine Stop and Gos as worlds of difference. But now to the exciting: A 1.0L engine (no matter the brand) at cruising speed 120km/h A 3.0L engine (no matter the brand) at cruising speed 120km/h Are there tables from when it would be more economical to switch to a larger machine? Or will the little ones, even if they are so tormented, be ever more economical?

In the search function I find unfortunately not (for me) usable on the topic. Maybe I’m just too stupid to look for the right one, but let’s keep this for ourselves The cleavages that can be done on the old diesel engines with distribution pump (especially VAG) are largely known to me. However, with my 2.0 hdi 90 I don’t really know what I can do. Maybe I should have learned a technical profession Kat is processed and replaces end pot against a pipe zt. I have to honestly say that the little one now responds noticeably better. Sports air filter (of course no open one) doesn’t really bring what in my experience, since the turbo sucks in enough air anyway? For a retrofitted charge air cooler you would have to change something about the injection so that it really does bring something (or do I have a thinking error ) Are there any other ways to tickle out a bit without going on the electronics? I am not talking about the hdi in particular, but about common rail systems in general. Let’s leave the legal foundations to the left, you don’t necessarily have to take part in public road traffic, sorry if that was a little bit of a text, but maybe there is someone who is interested in the topic just as much as I am. LG

Friend has 1 Ford B (Fiesta V) , to 2:8566, to 3: 49000000. 1400 m3, gasoline. About 15 years old. More than 200,000 km down. Driving distance: 3 times weekly: 200 km. Have changed in my main workshop (no Ford workshop) clutch. After 2 weeks he called me. He had damage to the front wheel. Was already in another workshop. (Workshop at his place of work – about 100 km away from the place of residence). Invoice was thus: wheel bearing and wheel stigma at the front right. Engine bearing attached to right. The workshop asked him where he had been before, there were wrong screws in it. My friend now thinks that my workshop had plugged into the clutch installation. (Evtl took other screws?) What do you think about it? Can this be related? (change of coupling with the new damage?) Wouldn’t my friend have had to notice the bearing damage right away while driving and stop immediately? And thus he could avoid big damage? He was probably already 70 km away, about 30 km from Do I have to withdraw my trust from my regular workshop now?

I’m just wondering when a motorcycle tyre has more wear and tear due to slippage. -When driving on the highway with Vmax – or when speeding through the gears My thought: When accelerating, the wheel torque is higher in gears below the 6th. But the number of revolutions is lower. On the other hand, the ground contact of the tyre is always the same. So is it more relevant to the transferred power or the transferred torque – or is that the same thing?

Hello guys, I just signed up here because I just started the project, that I want to mount additional headlights on my Forester Sf BJ 99. I want to have a switch in the interior where I can turn off the additional light permanently or if this switch is on ON, the additional headlights should only light up when the long-distance headlights are switched on… I actually thought that I could get this Bastlerei, but now I am in front of a Puzzles that I cannot understand…. I would like to use the cabling of the optional fog lights in order not to have to put a new line. I also found the corresponding connection on the left side of the steering wheel behind the dashboard. The cabling coming from the battery forks in the schematic and goes into the engine compartment into the relay box and also to the dashboard (this is thus the switch lights up when the light is switched on, but would be in m from the relay box in the engine compartment the line comes back to the dashboard and waits there to be connected with the switch to the mass … Now I thought I understood everything correctly and tested it before connecting again with the voltmeter, my results: Test from plus pole in the relay box on mass –> 12 volts …check, Well that was not understandable to me: I now close the two contacts on the dashboard via the voltmeter together I have a voltage of about 0.5 – 0.6 volts if I have switched on to II with the headlight light, if I switch down to I even 4.6 volts and at 0 I have no current flow…. Now where do these voltages come from when the two contacts are not connected at all in the relay box, or it has to come from somewhere else, because otherwise 12 volt should be measured with the contacts on the dashboard…???? Unfortunately, it doesn’t look good for this, or there is a small crack in this cable mix somewhere where there are miscurrent flows…Wouldn’t be good for the whole electrical system in this case, wouldn’t it? Thanks for your help I’m already curious what comes to mind In the appendix you’ll find the schematics

Servus together have a general question because of changing an alternator. And I have to change my Lima also the pole wheel or is it not important I could imagine it is like I think but have found nothing on the internet thanks already in advance mgf Sippelxx

Had read in a big German daily newspaper (which with the B..) that at some gas stations 1€ should be collected for air testing. Would one of you pay the €? I take this pump, unfortunately no official release of official organs has. Nevertheless, I check, fill my cars, wheelbarrows, bicycles, with foot muscle power, with it. I also have compressor in my hall, but for the FZ enough, comes in a little more lt display. th

Hello, I wasn’t quite at the point and it already happened. I was fueling about 8 liters of super instead of diesel, but I didn’t start the engine. The car was towed to the workshop. What are the costs for me? Is a common-rail diesel, by the way.

Hello, I would like to build an AHK on my Yaris, or am currently with the electrics. The following instructions: http://www.ahkupplung.de/ebay/Bilder/993007.pdf Unfortunately I have no idea about electrics so far. Now there is a long red cable there, that will pull (with safety in between) yes permanent plus. Where can I pick this up best? Do I have to go to the engine room until before? How do I recognize permanent plus if I should find cable somewhere? It is also incomprehensible to me the page 4. There wi rd now some lamp (why the armature appears in front?) left and right ONLY left connected. This is apparently connected with the enclosed current thieves. But why should I strip the cables “gy” and “gy/wh” ALSO again? The plugs are already mounted by the manufacturer?! (see page 2 at the delivery). Hope someone can help me. Thanks. Edit: The whole thing is already summarized on page 3 with the scope of delivery. Why do I have to use already connected plugs again. Remove each other and strip off?!

Hi guys, my new Golf Variant has only been on short distances lately and there are currently no more than 30km of rides available. When I used the same thing with my Audi, it didn’t start in the winter of one day – battery is empty. I think this is even worse with the current car, because the Audi had no start-stop system. Now I have two questions: a) Does it make sense to charge the battery with a charger? b) Can I use a “normal” load for this? Have the OXFORD Maximiser 360T here. Otherwise I have a high-end charger here, where I can determine all parameters myself. I would not like to take the device outside.