Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello in the round, my next car (<35k) should have ACC - I only know that the Seat Leon has. Do other non-premium vehicles (and it's just not advertised), or not?

Intake air ionization The combustion effect increases due to the ionized air especially ozone. The high-voltage ionization of the intake air creates the ozone and increases the combustion effect of the fuel and minimizes the proportion of pollutants in the exhaust gas. I installed yesterday, will test after a few hundred km. on the test bench. Currently feel-good performance increase noticeablehttp://dudyshev.ru/?p=215

Hello together, on the topic of automatic air conditioning vs. manual air conditioning I have a question. I’m driving an Astra G. The Z22SE engine, which is considered very smooth. I can confirm that. Before I drove a Peugeot 206, also with manual climate. Now I noticed that the running culture of the vehicle/motor changes considerably as soon as the climate is on. The nice quietness of my Astra is gone, it vibrates strongly and feels more like you are in a This was not the case everywhere in cars with automatic climate control. I have a direct comparison with an Audi A3 8L and an approx. 7 years old Hyundai. Both vehicles are not quite as quiet as my Astra without a climate. But switching on automatic climate control hardly changes the running culture of the two, while it is completely different for me. Therefore my question(s): Where does the phenomenon come from? The difference between an automatic and manual climate? I don’t understand this and therefore find it rather unpleasant to switch on the climate when passengers are sitting in the car, because it just doesn’t feel more up to date, when the car vibrates so much, etc. I have already made a defect in my climate. But would that have been the case with both Astra and Peugeot 206. Of course, but it would be funny (I think), which basically ran the climate for both of them. Thanks for all the help.

Hey guys, I would like to buy a stylish footroom lighting. I already looked in the bay and there you will find a lot of offers. I wanted to ask if someone can recommend something? It should be LED with color change so RGB, would be nice if it is a music controller that lets the LED in Rhytmus the music control. I found LED self-adhesive tapes and LED tubes so far. With the self-adhesive tapes I ask myself if they really promise what the Manufacturers indicate and do not fall off after 1 or 2 weeks? With the tubes I ask myself how I can attach the cleverly. Often I have seen finished sets have the firmly soldered cables with a very small length. I would like to light footroom lighting front + back + trunk. Since I have besides my cigarette lighter still 3 switches ( previous owner had there a footroom lighting, but again removed) I would like to use these for it. So I have to have 3 Set ́s buy? One for each switch???! I don’t know if it’s forbidden, but if you can’t send me links to offers you can recommend. Thank you What I wanted to mention is that my car factory did not provide footroom lighting. Own a Polo 6N2 BJ 2001. (As far as I know there are no mounts for glowbrines )

Dear friends, Is the theory that a smaller engine is more economical in all areas of work than a larger one? I know that different cars/engines have been built for different purposes. A smaller 1.0L Hyundai i10 will definitely consume less in the city center than a large BMW 5 Series 3L machine, which swallows even more in idle to keep itself alive. Again, the 5 Series 3L is made for the long distance. Here it rotates at 160km/h. ch cozy 2500 rpm, while the little Hyundai 1.0L screams his soul out of his body and asks for salvation. But here I think more of the comfort idea in the foreground. A large long 3L limousine is designed for quiet, comfortable long distance even at good speed. But whether the 3L engine in this territory is also more economical?! Example to compare apples with apples: A 1.0L engine (no matter the brand) at 50km/h A 3.0L engine (no matter the brand) at 50km/h Here I guess That the smaller engine is definitely more economical. In particular, I imagine Stop and Gos as worlds of difference. But now to the exciting: A 1.0L engine (no matter the brand) at cruising speed 120km/h A 3.0L engine (no matter the brand) at cruising speed 120km/h Are there tables from when it would be more economical to switch to a larger machine? Or will the little ones, even if they are so tormented, be ever more economical?

In the search function I find unfortunately not (for me) usable on the topic. Maybe I’m just too stupid to look for the right one, but let’s keep this for ourselves The cleavages that can be done on the old diesel engines with distribution pump (especially VAG) are largely known to me. However, with my 2.0 hdi 90 I don’t really know what I can do. Maybe I should have learned a technical profession Kat is processed and replaces end pot against a pipe zt. I have to honestly say that the little one now responds noticeably better. Sports air filter (of course no open one) doesn’t really bring what in my experience, since the turbo sucks in enough air anyway? For a retrofitted charge air cooler you would have to change something about the injection so that it really does bring something (or do I have a thinking error ) Are there any other ways to tickle out a bit without going on the electronics? I am not talking about the hdi in particular, but about common rail systems in general. Let’s leave the legal foundations to the left, you don’t necessarily have to take part in public road traffic, sorry if that was a little bit of a text, but maybe there is someone who is interested in the topic just as much as I am. LG

Friend has 1 Ford B (Fiesta V) , to 2:8566, to 3: 49000000. 1400 m3, gasoline. About 15 years old. More than 200,000 km down. Driving distance: 3 times weekly: 200 km. Have changed in my main workshop (no Ford workshop) clutch. After 2 weeks he called me. He had damage to the front wheel. Was already in another workshop. (Workshop at his place of work – about 100 km away from the place of residence). Invoice was thus: wheel bearing and wheel stigma at the front right. Engine bearing attached to right. The workshop asked him where he had been before, there were wrong screws in it. My friend now thinks that my workshop had plugged into the clutch installation. (Evtl took other screws?) What do you think about it? Can this be related? (change of coupling with the new damage?) Wouldn’t my friend have had to notice the bearing damage right away while driving and stop immediately? And thus he could avoid big damage? He was probably already 70 km away, about 30 km from Do I have to withdraw my trust from my regular workshop now?

I’m just wondering when a motorcycle tyre has more wear and tear due to slippage. -When driving on the highway with Vmax – or when speeding through the gears My thought: When accelerating, the wheel torque is higher in gears below the 6th. But the number of revolutions is lower. On the other hand, the ground contact of the tyre is always the same. So is it more relevant to the transferred power or the transferred torque – or is that the same thing?

Hello guys, I just signed up here because I just started the project, that I want to mount additional headlights on my Forester Sf BJ 99. I want to have a switch in the interior where I can turn off the additional light permanently or if this switch is on ON, the additional headlights should only light up when the long-distance headlights are switched on… I actually thought that I could get this Bastlerei, but now I am in front of a Puzzles that I cannot understand…. I would like to use the cabling of the optional fog lights in order not to have to put a new line. I also found the corresponding connection on the left side of the steering wheel behind the dashboard. The cabling coming from the battery forks in the schematic and goes into the engine compartment into the relay box and also to the dashboard (this is thus the switch lights up when the light is switched on, but would be in m from the relay box in the engine compartment the line comes back to the dashboard and waits there to be connected with the switch to the mass … Now I thought I understood everything correctly and tested it before connecting again with the voltmeter, my results: Test from plus pole in the relay box on mass –> 12 volts …check, Well that was not understandable to me: I now close the two contacts on the dashboard via the voltmeter together I have a voltage of about 0.5 – 0.6 volts if I have switched on to II with the headlight light, if I switch down to I even 4.6 volts and at 0 I have no current flow…. Now where do these voltages come from when the two contacts are not connected at all in the relay box, or it has to come from somewhere else, because otherwise 12 volt should be measured with the contacts on the dashboard…???? Unfortunately, it doesn’t look good for this, or there is a small crack in this cable mix somewhere where there are miscurrent flows…Wouldn’t be good for the whole electrical system in this case, wouldn’t it? Thanks for your help I’m already curious what comes to mind In the appendix you’ll find the schematics

Servus together have a general question because of changing an alternator. And I have to change my Lima also the pole wheel or is it not important I could imagine it is like I think but have found nothing on the internet thanks already in advance mgf Sippelxx