Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello to everyone, this is my first post. Excuse me if I am in the wrong category. Now to my problem: My car battery is empty again. Since the car is not to be used for a little longer, I wanted to charge the battery at my home (Exide 71Ah) with the Einhell CE-BC 4M. If I connect the charger and choose the program 12V hours then I have only 2 bars and the charger shows me only 13,1V. According to my research this is probably too little This was confirmed last night, because I had the battery charged for 10 hours and then found that nothing was happening. I connected the charger to another battery to check it (Exide 95Ah, AGM). According to the charger it is full and the charger shows me 14V or more. My question: How do they get the “empty” battery charged?. I still have a start-up cable lying around with me. Is it possible to charge the two batteries with to connect each other so that the full battery can charge the empty battery?. – If so, how do I have to connect the two batteries – is it enough to connect only the plus poles?. I thank you in advance

Hello, I’m looking for a reason why you can’t mix the two fluids. Can someone just explain or call a page that explains what would happen chemically if you mixed them? MfG Mike

Hello, I hope the topic fits in here. I have been driving a (new) car for 3 years with above-mentioned refrigerants. Now I was thinking about whether to have a climate maintenance. In the past they said every 2 years, which I see as a very short interval when the plant works smoothly. The dealer told me then, at R1234yf the shrinkage by diffusion is lower than at the old plants. Can anyone confirm that? How often do you leave the plant (please only for R1234yf antwor How much was missing? Basically, I wouldn’t mind having a look after three years, but the prices are really happy. Bosch, for example, wants 150 EUR plus 24 EUR per 100g of refrigerant for the service. What is your experience regarding maintenance prices and the loss of refrigerant. Are there any general signs that the system has too little refrigerant or where the signs are missing that there are not too few refrigerants in it? On my previous car, for example, the compressor was heard shouting when the refrigerant had dropped too far. Or when the system was switched on, a hissing noise on the expansion valve, as well as a hissing after the engine was switched off. Are the signs always occurring when there is too little refrigerant?

I mean the engine capacity.What 4cylinders has had most. But only car engines no trucks or tanks,etc…. I’m just interested. THANK YOU.

Hello dear screwdriver community, I have been looking for my mind for some time. For occasional repairs also in the circle of friends and acquaintances I always search the corresponding torques for the screws that I have to do with my repairs. Since the vehicles always differ and always something else has to be repaired, Google (maybe I also search wrongly) doesn’t really help. My question: Is there a platform / lexicon or similar where I find r the corresponding car in the best case find an explosion drawing where the components and also screws with the tightening torques can be seen? How do free workshops do this? Use the software for this? Which are running what costs? Hope you can put an end to my search. Thank you already for your efforts

Hello together unfortunately I am as a loan with my latain at the end howl………. My g20 6,2 diesel no longer jumps on despite new starter and battery. Since in the last time I had extreme start problems at the end he jumped only with bridging thought of I ok battery defective. so new battery installed, nevertheless after the preglow sang the voltage at the start up to 3-4 volts. after that nine more lasser destructed. wiring to possibly short circuit measured all caliber ok. NE UE BATTERY NEW INLASSER new mass cable for the starter with bridge from a running motor the same problem. start pre-glow voltage about 13-14 volts after the pre-glührelais clicks and I activate the ignition also breaks the voltage again up to 3-5 volts. has someone had this error also already already ? has the pre-glührelais or glowing candles something to do with the starter or starter ? does not know any more and get the car logically now also in no workshop u nd am really more than desperate. hope can possibly help with a further or give good tips. many thanks to you in advance ………

Hello together, I have already asked some car mechatronics, hobby screwdrivers and also two engineers from the TÜV, but no one could answer my question. So I signed up here in the forum to use your swarm knowledge. The end pot of my Fabia has a sheet metal outside, which is already completely rusted away. However, it is still tight and also the volume has not changed subjectively. TÜV also got my car with it. A friendly car mechatronics he said to me that this is the case with many cars and that I can easily continue driving with it. Is that really so? And if so, why is the end pot covered with this sheet metal, which is obviously not made of stainless steel, like the rest of the exhaust? I’m curious about your answers. LG Michel

Hello! With a vehicle (not mine), the coolant temperature indicator, as far as I know, has 6 LEDs. If the engine is in a warm state, normally constant 3 LEDs light up. For some time, probably at lower outside temperatures dropped off and the display from three to two LEDs. At some point, it rose again to three LEDs. I therefore suspected a defective thermostat. Now, among other things, the cooler came new, new thermostat and new coolant temperature sensor. The new thermostat is the same as the previous model and is definitely the right one – the cooling system has been properly ventilated – No oil in the cooling water and no cooling water in the oil, no smear on the oil cover – No heat loss on the oil cover – No heat loss, no heat loss, no heat loss, no heat loss. rising bubbles in the cooling water with open balancing tank and running engine – heating gets warm – no errors in the fault memory – fluctuating cooling water temperature is also visible when reading the data with a diagnostic plug during the ride Do you have a guess what the cause might be? Is it just the outside temperatures? Simply ignore? It is by the way a Citroen C3 from 2003 with a 1.4l machine (TU3JP).Thank you for your assessments.

Hi all, I recently drove a BMW 5 with ACC. In this case, you can switch off the ACC with longer pressure on the distance adjustment keys and drive with normal cruise control. I’m looking for another brand that can do that – or is it a BMW Privilieg? As far as I know, no VAG vehicle can do that and also the Daimler can’t … At Ford you can set it in the menu, but you can’t switch it as comfortably as at BMW … soon new motorized greetings Touri

Greetings, since my knowledge of Krummer is rudimentary, I prefer to ask the question publicly. Question: Which lock screws / nut and from which material helps, that they do not resolve again when mounting trouser tube & Krummer with metal seal 🙂 The facts are simple: Trouser tube to Krummer was screwed together for time reasons (AU appointment the next morning) with common 8.8 lock screws M8x40 and common nuts M8 and it also held about 50km. Then it held. As wonderful as the snoring sound may be, I would like to have it fixed properly. I am aware that crackers and trouser tubes are getting hot, an expansion and a pull-up is taking place when cooled down. How is this compensated in the original condition with standing bolts? Are these only the enclosed discs and copper nuts? Since we have drilled out the 3 torn stand bolts and replaced with lock screws, I hope to find a screw solution, What’s your advice?