Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Had read in a big German daily newspaper (which with the B..) that at some gas stations 1€ should be collected for air testing. Would one of you pay the €? I take this pump, unfortunately no official release of official organs has. Nevertheless, I check, fill my cars, wheelbarrows, bicycles, with foot muscle power, with it. I also have compressor in my hall, but for the FZ enough, comes in a little more lt display. th

Hello, I wasn’t quite at the point and it already happened. I was fueling about 8 liters of super instead of diesel, but I didn’t start the engine. The car was towed to the workshop. What are the costs for me? Is a common-rail diesel, by the way.

Hello, I would like to build an AHK on my Yaris, or am currently with the electrics. The following instructions: http://www.ahkupplung.de/ebay/Bilder/993007.pdf Unfortunately I have no idea about electrics so far. Now there is a long red cable there, that will pull (with safety in between) yes permanent plus. Where can I pick this up best? Do I have to go to the engine room until before? How do I recognize permanent plus if I should find cable somewhere? It is also incomprehensible to me the page 4. There wi rd now some lamp (why the armature appears in front?) left and right ONLY left connected. This is apparently connected with the enclosed current thieves. But why should I strip the cables “gy” and “gy/wh” ALSO again? The plugs are already mounted by the manufacturer?! (see page 2 at the delivery). Hope someone can help me. Thanks. Edit: The whole thing is already summarized on page 3 with the scope of delivery. Why do I have to use already connected plugs again. Remove each other and strip off?!

Hi guys, my new Golf Variant has only been on short distances lately and there are currently no more than 30km of rides available. When I used the same thing with my Audi, it didn’t start in the winter of one day – battery is empty. I think this is even worse with the current car, because the Audi had no start-stop system. Now I have two questions: a) Does it make sense to charge the battery with a charger? b) Can I use a “normal” load for this? Have the OXFORD Maximiser 360T here. Otherwise I have a high-end charger here, where I can determine all parameters myself. I would not like to take the device outside.

Hey people, after there have been two topics on the topic of training, I still have one concern and start the third one. To me I have enjoyed a classic locksmith training which I have completed on average.Even I would describe myself as the all-rounder. Now my question means you will make it very hard as a locksmith the mechantronics technician will leave me many electrical engineering things ? .In the vocational school I have only the absolute basic lay What still benefits me a bit I have the specialization commercial vehicle construction since I got a little more of the control technology in the 3-4 year of training. What do you think about it ?.

I have a small problem. The “vehicle” in question is equipped with M8x25 (goods ???). However, not according to DIN (912) 4762, 6912 or 9784. Because the screw heads are not 13.0 mm in diameter, but only 11.2 mm. According to “vehicle manufacturer”, the screws are not available as spare parts and a further hint is about standard parts. The single-point screws I have found can not be bought here in small quantity. https://en.misum i-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300244060/ So screw dealers or Würth and Co. are leaving. Of course, you could also buy and turn off the screws, but that can’t really be that these screws can’t be bought. I trust in your “swarm knowledge” here.

Moin people, I’m more than dissatisfied with the seating comfort in my Ford Focus DYB, sitting there like a squeezed orange, asking for experiences as it looks at other car manufacturers for space and satisfaction.

Moin together, now everyone will think, “one more battery question”. Let’s see: Built-in is an AGM battery VARTA or JCB 75Ah 420A 800A in an Audi A4 B9. The battery tester from Ancel tells this here (picture). I then tried to charge the battery with a CTEK MXS 7.0 over the contacts in the engine compartment (not directly over the poles, and battery is in the trunk anyway). Bulk phase went through within 10 minutes. Absorption phase takes 4-5 hours. mmt and next morning tested with multimeter: still 12.35V resting voltage – as before. I will start with the Battery Guard (see in the background from the picture). Lima delivers enough: 15V in idle – but a little bit ok. What to do, said Zeus? 1. Buying a new car battery: laugh, that’s not what it’s about 2. Reassemble car battery and charge it directly: yes, you can do it, only has the fun to work as described by Audi. In addition, there is a warranty on the car and I have there’s another “invoice” open. Does any of you have any idea what it might be about?

Good morning, I changed the oil at my car (Twingo C06) last year. Now I have problems that the car is stuttering quite violently when giving gas and this is getting worse and worse. If I check the oil level by rod, the oil level is exactly in the middle of the scale. I first thought there was something broken like throttle valve, spark plugs, … Now I have unscrewed the lid of the oil pan and there is everything at the top with white fat. I pull the stick out, but is quite normal there I look through the hole through the fat, but I don’t see any oil at all and it looks like there’s no oil in it. What kind of fat is that and how does that come about?

I had the situation two times last time with a rental car (Kia with circuit) that I was driving with cruiser highway, and the brake pedal could not pass through – it seemed somehow blocked. I immediately pulled the hand brake without trying for a long time, and the car (acted at 80km/h as I imagined a full pressure with pedal, so with something slingling) to stand up. The first time with approx. 80km/h, the second time 20 minutes later with 30km/h. Two interpretations: 1. I was tired, it was a rental car, I accidentally kicked next to it, and the foot was still half on the gas and half on the brake (or somehow oblique on the pedal) somehow wrong. 2.With the car something didn’t agree. Against 1 speaks that I have been driving the car for a week, for many years regularly different cars drive, and something like that has never happened to me. But is 2 at all possible, so that the brake pedal for some technical reason not sofor t is going through properly?