Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Last week I went to HU, where I was criticized for the fact that the 7G automatic transmission of my 2006 W203 CDI 320 oil lost that already ran on the exhaust. Last year I was in May for a 3x on a rinsing event at Hakan Sönmez, where it was not so accurately taken with the temperatures, which should be kept according to WIS, because a large number of vehicles stood in line. I also could not see any difference to the previous oil changes, what the function of the transmission after d I noticed 2-3 times that with longer full gas fractions suddenly white smoke came up behind me. When I briefly walked off the gas this smoke immediately disappeared. In the parking lot in front of our house there is not a drop of oil, which creates my guess that I may have too much oil in the gearbox, that only under a large load is pushed out somewhere. Is there an air vent at the 7G, or has someone had similar experience? I would have had an experience with it. yes Hakan asked, but the connection 0208669818 was occupied only this morning after 3 days of the call attempts by Mrs. Schulze, unfortunately I did not receive a call back. Jürgen who coordinated the rinsing events has not answered my question about another phone number yet. Well, that’s why I’m asking you now…

Hello, the pages of Atera are hardly about scrap level, if you don’t want to buy a new product, but need information about an already bought product… Unfortunately I found nothing else. I bought from Atera the and the , both were used without instructions, and with both I can’t cope… If someone could tell me where the two manuals are? Or else can give these 4 infos? For different Certo and Cargo models I have a manual for different Certo and Cargo models. and, but the models in it are probably newer, they have a different fixing system. Although mine has a “420” in the type designation, it corresponds to those in my PDF manual of Certo 410 (and not the Certo 420). thank you!

Hello, I drive an E90 320i (150hp) automatic and am quite unsafe/afraid about the operation. On the one hand I drive my car gently warm or I try it. However, I am almost paranoid when it comes to giving gas. If I push the pedal too fast or deep down, it immediately switches down 1-2 gears and turns up, then I panic that with the still cold engine what happens. On the other hand I do not want to s Another problem, on the way home the highway starts from 1km away and since I don’t want to turn up like anything else, because the engine is practically cold, I sneak along the acceleration lane and immediately turn up at the speed 90 to the trucks on the right track. The car feels quite sticky in normal D mode (until you give gas), but in the D/S immediately much lighter, but the extra consumption then scares me off. Do you see that? How do I go with the automatic?

I have to do the following tasks in the appendix. I would like to have my solution checked here by experienced journeymen. In Task 3 I have marked the metals with a circle, non-metals with a square and composite materials with an X Is my solution so far correct? Note: if you draw the image on your PC, you can zoom the image and read it better

Dear readers, a convertible is considered to be generally more susceptible to torsions, because it lacks the stabilizing roof structure. For this reason, the floor groups are especially reinforced. When I recently drove various Mercedes SLK (R170), which are considered to be the stiffest roadsters of the time, I found these rather timid and also others confirm that SLKs are rather soft compared to saloons. With closed metal roof it became noticeably better. So, if it is not possible to have a convertible/roadster s o to build stiff like a normal limousine or is the SLK simply much softer than the press does? And how does a Barcetta or a BMW Z3 drive? Like a cut-up baguette? I would like to buy a roadster, but if they are all rather soft, these probably do not correspond to my idea of a shape-resistant vehicle. Do you have similar experiences? Greetings

Hello ! I drive a 19 year old VW Golf 3 without air conditioning and for about half a year I no longer have a garage, i.e. the vehicle is standing outside. In winter I often have the problem that if I have scratched the windows after a few minutes and then start with the ice-cold petrol engine, that then quickly freeze the windows again, the view becomes significantly worse and I have to stop for another ice scraping. That would actually not be a problem, just f After 2 kilometers I travel on a busy federal road, where there is no stand strip on the next 10 kilometers… it may be dangerous for me. I am now considering whether I start the engine, at least bring it to a minimum temperature / warm run, so that the heating on the first kilometers gets faster on routes, so that a new stop and ice scraping is not necessary any more. Unfortunately, I have no information about the search function. Does it make sense to keep the engine running warm in the stand or is it even forbidden? What else can I do (the installation of a stand-up heater definitely does not apply to the old car)? Mfg Marwief

Moin, I’ve had a UNI-T 210E for years as a plier multimeter. Don’t give this thing any more, current new price by 50€. Now I’ve come across a clone, which seems to be missing only the “Non Contact Voltage Tester” function: See https://smile.amazon.de/…/B08136SN61 for just 21€ with shipping and just a 2A measuring range “untenrum” by pliers. For “rest current problems” I find the small pliermamperemeter with multimeter function simply tip. Features, but only half as expensive. Has anyone tried this thing before? Looks to me like “great to measure at the car”, quasi ideal replacement of a classic multimeter plus the option to measure even smaller currents on the battery without disconnecting cables. What is classically not so easy. PS: No, I have nothing to do with them. I’m just curious.

Hello, was last in the free workshop and with payment was informed that I should soon also change the coolant, 60 EUR offer. I check at home and see: the manufacturer indicates change after 10 years. Car is only 5 years old!. Does the workshop now only want a follow-up order and has just bought too much coolant or can the coolant have actually become bad already after half the deadline (additive tired, etc.)? And if so, what ? Greetings Dirk

Hello! I asked myself if the information about tightening moments of screws etc. are temperature dependent. When it was relatively cold a few days ago (around 0° Celsius, partly under) I had to do a few things on the car. My torque wrench (10 year old, inexpensive model from the discounter) was out for a long time, just like the screws used. Theoretically, the expansion of the metals would have to be reduced by the low temperature. – Screw becomes shorter – Bo the screw is screwed into, the thread becomes tighter there – housing of the torque wrench including the spring becomes shorter (but there may be different coefficients of expansion within the key due to different materials of housing and spring)… Sure, this is all only in a very small measure. But in my opinion this would have to play a role. How do you see it? If I want to tighten a screw with 30 Nm in cold, for example, it would have to play a role. I aim at the 30 Nm under the mentioned conditions (assuming the torque wrench was very accurate). Or do I go under the 30 nm by the temperature rather? What does this look like if the same situation in the desert were at extremely high temperatures? I am curious about your answers.

Hello, is there a lot of drivers who have replaced the lamps in the interior (which are difficult to access) for LEDs? I wanted to change the lamps of the heating control with my Corsa B maybe for LEDs because they are defective (or I have damaged the console a little while 3 weeks ago and now want to replace the whole unit but work more carefully. That takes so 2 hours… quasi the 2nd lamp replacement to have an intact center console again after my messy repair. For a few weeks, but then with LED instead of light bulbs. What I’m about: The light bulbs were in there for about 10 years before. Since I drive little they have kept in the end nevertheless only about 60.000km. If I have to commute more now I have no desire in 3 or 4 years to change the lamps again. LEDs should hold 50,000h or so, i.e. probably longer than the remaining life of the car (if I walk from 50km/h average windiness would be the 2.5m. km). with simple LEDs to put in experience? I think above all that maybe because of the low heat development in the narrow space or so maybe not last so long… Maybe someone can write here “hold since 300,000km without problems” or “been broken again after 2 years”. I presume such (unfortunately you have to pay attention to the polarity yourself): https://www.ebay.de/itm/164408166254?…