Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Servus! At the beginning I have to admit that I’m pretty much the last person to know cars. But I’m totally unsure and would be happy if you could tell me your opinions on the following issue: I’m driving a Mercedes A-Class. About 2-3 months ago the brake pads were exchanged, because this small screen told me that brake wear is taking place. The new brake pads are not original Mercedes brakes, but rather rather a bit cheap (as I understand it). e) and was installed by a buddy. After that the display was gone and everything was good. Unfortunately it started to squeak while braking, otherwise however no faults. According to buddy no big problem. Then I had to go to the TÜV and was afraid that the something was faulted and I had to pay a lot. Everything examined, nothing at the brakes determined, but 1-2 other defects. I then fixed that, however, has passed too much time (private unfortunately some things happened) and now I’m a little late for the re-show (is that so?). I know, now everything can be checked again and it gets unnecessarily expensive again, my bad luck. The brakes squeak now a little more than last time. My question now: If they squeaked last time, but the function was apparently spotless, then I can get through this time with squeaks? Or do you think that it was “only lucky”? I was told that squeaking is no problem at the TÜV and if I vo This time it will probably work out for a month. Nevertheless, I’m kind of scared and it’s a bit embarrassing to entertain the hall through a loud squeaking. 🙂 Maybe someone wants to add his mustard to it…

Moin, is a banal question, but I can’t find a reasonable answer to that. Why do automatic vehicles have a wider brake pedal than a switchcar? It’s clear with a switchcar that the space is missing and you might get the brake pedal when you dome it. But that doesn’t explain why automatic vehicles have a wider brake pedal. Especially nowadays, where the strategy with as many equal parts as possible is used to reduce the costs. As I see it, this is already e Ever so, so no new invention or relic from ancient times. Does anyone have a plausible explanation for this?

Good day, I charge my car battery in my vehicle in built-in condition by means of my MXS 5,0. I am unsure if I have understood the operating instructions correctly and do this with the charging time correctly: I charge in the program AUTO until the level 7 green diode in battery symbol form lights. This can be achieved once after 5 hours, but today only after 2 hours after connecting the charging trench. The battery is today apparently already quickly full again, anyway had there The charging start was reached at 12.19 volts, charging end (level 7) was reached at measured 12.98 volts at the battery poles after disconnecting the charger. Levels 1 and 2 are processed immediately when switching on within a few seconds, level 3 takes less than one minute and stage 4 then, as today, just 2 hours or Sunday 5 hours. Level 5 has never been observed before, because too short and stage 7 lights up until i I will not leave the charger connected for hours. After the manual of the charger I read from it that the battery has reached 100% of the reachable capacity after the end of stage 4 and is then already fully charged. So the battery really should be fully charged! I wonder that after reaching level 7 when the charging trench is still connected a battery voltage of 13,5 volts, na I know that a higher voltage can be measured directly after the charging end.Two days later, however, I can only measure 12,3 or 12,19 volts. Does the actual charging only start when I reach level 7 and that I have to have the charger connected for a few hours? I understand the instructions so that level 7 is a charge maintenance level. Or deu am I wrong about the operating instructions?

Hello together… I would be interested to know if it is worth having your control unit adapted in the sense of fuel saving – which is mostly accompanied by more possible power… I currently consume 5.8litres per 100km with my 2.0CDTi in the Insignia and drive every month in about 3000km… What do you think about how much the consumption would improve with corresponding “tuning”? My driving profile 90% AB and 5% rural road and 5% city. Speed… mostly about 100km/h in the 6th Ga ng… Is there even any experience value?

Hello! I had my car ( Golf6 1.4 TSI 160 hp) on Friday to change oil, because I wanted to saddle from Longlife (5W30) to fixed interval with 0W40. Then when I looked at the oil level in the evening to see if the friendly guy did everything right, I noticed that the oil level, measured at the track stick, is about 20mm above MAX and the supposedly new oil is as black/brown as before the change. But the oil filter was definitely changed. How do you think I should proceed? Is it possible that the oil change has not been carried out at all??? Thank you in advance!

Hello, I notice that there are still many small cars that have to be plagued with unsynchronized reverse gears. Does anyone know which vehicles in the small car class are still like this? But from the lower middle class they should always be synchronized, or am I wrong?

Hello, I’m about to get the Tüv and have a few questions about it. 1. The tyres are slightly expired inside (almost blank), but on the main surface (where the lock pointer is) there is still 2 mm on it. Is there any problem? 2. The brake pads at the front still have 3mm covering, the battery wear indicator has not yet addressed. However, braking performance is not limited. Is there any problem? 3. Have my axle carrier preserved with cavity wax, but it was necessary to put it on two positions. 10mm to drill the extinguisher to introduce the spray probe. The extinguishers have been drilled at the lower area and are now used as a water flow. Is there no place where particularly many forces work on the material. Did you learn from a known only afterwards that one “actually” must not drill on the axle carrier. Does the problem, or do they allow the argument with the water flow? Basically, I would not drive into the clock because of the things with the tires and coverings now, but Pro fil and covering is still available and I hate to change what is still good. Thanks for the answers already.

the TÜV is due in June for above MB and it has been noted at the last HU the following ; track rod joint ( head ) front starting game brake line rusted rear fuel lines now I have obtained 2 estimates and am now overburdened ; the 1st estimate amounts to 782 € of the 2nd estimate amounts to 993 € not yet taken into account ; oil change , brake pads , brake fluid change and air filters exchange and replenishing the air conditioning system or renewing the liquid Now consider whether I should invest this or buy a good used combination again …. What do you think about this ???

Hello! On a vehicle today I mounted the summer wheels and at the occasion I looked at the brakes. The brake blocks still have a lot of thickness. But the brake disc seemed to be relatively worn out. I measured it and it still has a thickness of approx. 19 or 19.22 mm (exactly the measurement was not for various reasons, but should get there roughly). Just I looked at the brake disc manufacturer. the minimum thickness for the vehicle with an internal wash. This is the second set of brake blocks that is used with the disc. Now the question is: to use the brake blocks to the end and then change or to keep the minimum thickness so precisely that it is absolutely necessary to act now? What do you think? How relevant is the minimum thickness?

Hello together, yesterday my friend wanted to leave and it was already the first gear difficult to go in but ok I thought it is normal that when the car was standing that doesn’t fluff.. After a short time (3 min) the gears could only be inserted with extreme power and a switching was almost impossible. The reverse gear also literally crashed in. Even during the driving the gears could only be changed by force. Then turned around and the car turned off and it showed up at get Reten clutch of the cars in the first gear and in the reverse gear began to roll. From this I conclude that the clutch does not separate cleanly. Today we wanted to go to the workshop and I get into the car (not moved since the defect ) and it is as if nothing had been. Car runs almost perfectly from the switch… This scenario repeats itself for a long time now and comes out of the blue. The only thing “helps” is when you turn off the engine and all the gears times with and without the hit clutch switched through and then starts completely normal. In 80% of the cases then everything works again. What can this be???! If the back bearing or the clutch itself were over then this would have to be the case or not?! By the way, the clutch is operated over a rope hoist, is an old car greeting and thank you!