Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

I or my workshop wanted to replace the injection nozzles at my TDI. These are attached with a holder to the engine block. The holder is screwed again with an M6 extension screw on the engine block. The block is made of aluminium. The workshop had broken the loosening of the screws first, because the engine was still hot and they did not want to take any risk. We moved the whole thing by two weeks. I should now spray the screws more often with rust solution and that is what they want the whole The Scheffe has addressed me to the risks and side effects. If a screw pulls off, the head must be drilled down and a new thread drilled.. This residual risk is probably present. Now I get easy snap breathing. What can you do in advance to move these crappy screws to loosen.

I have a Golf 7 1.4l TSI whose start/stop below about 8-12° almost never works with the message “Vehicle energy demand high”. High energy demand can be excluded from the usual additional consumers. That wasn’t like that from the beginning. As soon as it is warm enough, so let’s say 15° the engine switches off even after a few hundred meters at the first traffic light. Just as I know it from other vehicles with S/S. Now I want to know a little bit before the next workshop meeting. In order to be able to weigh excuses better. Since the troubleshooting will certainly not be so easy. Otherwise no problems are known on the vehicle. My suspicion, something pulls too much current, which it should not and which is not in operation over the temperature span anyway. So e.g. heated disc wash nozzles.

Moin times basically, which version is to prefer? I have Brembos or carpenters in mind….. Slit Tarox are certainly better, because I’m not sure if the vehicle is fun in the medium term and divides the paths again, but at first I don’t want to spend too much money. I rarely drive the vehicle track and passes and prefer the punching also for optical reasons. My theory is that perforated discs have a better heat dissipation but here Is there a risk of cracking? Does anyone have concrete experiences?

Due to my current health situation, it would be good for me to sit higher. If I screw up the seat, the seat also moves forward in addition. Now I lack the depth to sit in the length. If the seat would increase “senkrecht” everything would be ok. I am aware that the thing is complicated. Therefore I was at the TÜV today to clarify a single acceptance. If the seat does not come higher than this can be adjusted so far for the TÜV “everything is Ok”. We measured together, seat fits in the back plus 5 cm height. I should have the conversion done in a qualified workshop and if this were made reasonable, the TÜV acceptance would actually not be a problem according to the examiner. Does someone know here a company that offers such a thing in a realistic price frame? I found only one supplier, however, who wants to have fabulous 1000 € for it. Oli

Actually I was excited about it, if someone used waste oil further, but was taught here in the forum of a better one. Therefore seriously my question, whether you can burn waste oil environmentally-friendly, because obviously my boss does this in times of increased energy prices. Isn’t that stupid, because after all, he gets the stuff free of oil change, and if you can burn it environmentally-friendly, why not use it. Maybe there are filters or sieves. e

Last weekend, I recharged my battery, because the current Fiesta always causes problems with empty battery within a relatively short (stand) time, e.g. if you are on holiday for a week and the car is not moving. The app then sends the message “Vehicle is in deep sleep mode” and some comfort functions are deactivated. After just under 2 years, the first battery was defective and had to be replaced. In order to prevent this, I will now use the car. this autumn/winter, so occasionally connect to the charger (must). Sunday I did this and the charger showed me a quiet voltage of 12.6V. Can it be technically seen that the battery already has a voltage of 14.4V after about an hour of charging? The charger charges with about 6.5A and the battery has 60Ah.

Hello everyone, My original post is below – if someone already answers and quotes – I changed my mind after the reviews read at Amazon… These PDC systems are probably not very reliable on the one hand, on the other hand nothing for the wash road, which I very much like to visit. What I would like to do instead: a monitor with two cameras – wash road-proof. A contamination of the cameras is no problem – if they are not hidden behind a flap, then the I am looking for a system with a camera in front, and one in the back. Everything should be mounted on a SLK R170 in front ofMoPf, and the system should be switched on by switch – and not by reverse. In the front I want the camera for the narrow streets in Italy, and for our narrow underground car park. In the back it should be centered, and “large obstacles”. Does anyone have a product suggestion? Alternatively: an The front can also watch the woman if it is to go through narrow alleys :-In the relevant online shopping portals there are return cameras and PDC offers without end. I also have someone who would install it all (normal, free workshop). But…. I did not find a system that is COPPED with a camera. Can someone recommend it to me – which also works well? Alternatively…. Which PDC system would be recommended? (best system for small money) The optically identical system with sensors for front and rear is between 26 and 72 EUR on amazon. Which camera would be recommended? (best camera for small money) By the way, I would like a “simple” installation: I would like to switch on the PDC camera system manually.

Hello. Sometimes I ask myself because of the prices, if some spare parts are not fake, because they are so cheap. I have already partly installed the parts, the shops are randomly selected, I do not advertise for them. They are always brand parts, no nonames, also the shops are not exotic timing belt set, original at VW/Audi, tension roller68 Euro, belts 50 Euro, each net = 140 Euro Total cost Contitech timing belt set for atp-car parts for 28 Euro:https://www.atp- autoteile.de/…/v-1080 Or: Castrol 5W-40, costs 60-80 Euro of the canister at ATU, Bauhaus &Co, here for 31,20 Euro:https://oeldepot24.de/…-turbo-diesel-titanium-fst-5w-40-5-liter.html I also think that the shops can not afford plagiarism, but even mobile batteries and mobile phone chargers for 5 Euro are faked, so why not copy a canister oil with a colorful label…. What do you think about it more than a plagiarism but spare part and price policy at Hers plate: Spare parts OEM from Mercedes: crankcase ventilation for the OM642, Mercedes 130 Euro, Chrysler (part of Mercedes packaging with Mercedes OE number) approx. 30 Euro

Hello, has someone ever changed wheel bolts (at a Kia Cee’d SW ED rear)? Can you just knock them out after removing the brake disc, or MUST you expand the wheel hub. The place seems to be scarce, but just enough. And how do you pull them back in after that? With a nut (does it work with the wheel nut)? With a sliding hammer? Image source: http://media2.mister-auto.com/skf/radlager/624×390/050vkba-6905-1.jpg In the super-example video you can see very well the wheel hub (after removal of the brake disc):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6PkDTLyrX4 Any tips, except never to have a plaster shop make the tyre change again ? Greeting Mick

Dear community, I have already read here some articles on the topic of electricity, especially from the field of camping, but it is not yet so informative for me. Therefore I ask you my question, in the hope that here come some good ideas and solutions: Our association can use a Mercedes V220 CDi. At the end of the day the bus should become our KulTour bus, with which a small theatre troupe or musicians can go on tour. Now the idea came up in the association that it It would have to be possible to equip the bus in such a way that forest and meadow shows would also have to be possible. In such a way that the bus could provide the power supply for the theatre light and/or a small PA together with monitors for a small concert. We do not want to buy a DIY generator for transport/place reasons. Especially since an engine is already available on the bus. The bus would have to supply approx. 5KW of power to 230 volts for light/PA. If possible it would be especially great, we nn that would even work during the ride, so that we can take part in the “Carneval of Cultures” with a trailer (on which our actors are located) and the bus takes over the power supply for light and sound. Is this possible in principle? Is the engine able to generate the corresponding amount of electricity somehow? The voltage converters do not seem to be sufficient for this, since the alternator could not charge the battery quickly enough in the stand, What do you think?